ATHENS (ancient Greek, Athenai), Greece, the capital of the kingdom anciently the capital of the state of Attica and the centre of Greek culture. Its origin and early history are shrouded in darkness. It is situated in the central plain of Attica, which is bounded on the north and northwest by Mounts Parnes and /Egaleos, east and northeast by Pentelikon and Hymettos and on the south by the Saronic Gulf or Gulf of Athens, an arm of the lEgean Sea, running in between the mainland of Greece and the Peloponnesus from which Athens is about four miles distant. The site is irregular, the city having been built on and around several hills rising from the plain, Mount Lycabettus, on the northeast, overlooking the whole. The principal eminence within the city boundary was the Acropolis, the site first built on; west from the Acropolis was a lower hill, called the Areopagus; southwest from the Areopagus was the Pnyx and south from the Pnyx the Museum Hill; toward the sea on the south the view was unimpeded. On the east of the city was the stream known as the Ilissus, and on the west the Cephissus. On the Acropolis, the Pnyx and the line of hills that run north and south to the west of it traces of numerous dwellings cut in the rocks have recently been found. At its most flourishing period, in the 5th century a.c., Athens was connected with its port-town Piraeus and the harbors of Cantharus, Zea and Munychia by two massive walls called the "Long Walls" 550 feet apart. It is thought that a third wall ran to the less important har bor of Phalerum but this was not rebuilt after its destruction at the close of the Peloponnesian War. The first harbor was considered the most convenient, and was one of the emporiums of Grecian commerce. Piraeus was considered part of Athens, the joint city being often termed the Polis while Athens proper was called Asty. The surrounding coast was cov ered with magnificent buildings, whose splendor vied with those of the city. The walls of rough stone which connected the harbors with the city were about 10 feet thick and 60 feet high. The Acropolis contained the most splendid works of art of which Athens could boast. Its chief ornament was the Parthenon or Temple of Athena Parthenos (the Virgin). This magnificent building was 228 feet long, 101 broad and 66 high. It was built under the administration of Pericles, on the site of a temple started probably by Themistocles, and was finished in 438 B.C. It was of the Doric order of architecture, and was built of Pentelic marble, resting upon a basement of limestone. The architects were Callicrates and Tetinos. It had columns on all sides, eight at either front and 17 at the sides, counting the corner columns twice. These columns were fully six feet in diameter at the base, and 34 feet high. The structure was adorned both within and without, with statues, reliefs and other sculp tures. The frieze and pediments — remains of which are now in the British Museum — are ascribed to Phidias. Inside the temple stood the statue of Athena by Phidias, a master piece of art, 42% feet high, the unclothed por tions formed of ivory, the drapery of plates of gold, the value of which was estimated at 44 talents (about $750,000). The Prop lava, a magnificent building, built of white Pentelic marble, begun in 437 Lc. and probably never completed according to the original plan, formed the entrance to the Acropolis, of which it covered the whole western end. A splendid marble stair, 70 feet broad, led up to the Propylaea. The chief building on the Acropolis, in addition to the Parthenon and the Propylaea, was the Erechtheum, a kind of double temple, especially sacred to Athena Polias (or Athena, guardian of the city), and Erechtheus and pos sibly also Poseidon. On the Acropolis also were other temples, altars, statues, etc., includ ing a colossal bronze statue of Athena Proma chos by Phidias, about 30 feet high. On the south slope of the Acropolis were the theatre of Dionysus, the sanctuary of Asclepius, the Odeum of Pericles, and the later Odeum of Herodes, the latter two buildings being intended for musical competitions. In the lower city the greatest pieces of architecture were the so-called temple of Theseus (more probably temple of Hephaestus), and the temple of Olympian Zeus, one of which stood on the northwest, the other on the southeast side of the Acropolis. The first was of Doric archi tecture, and resembled the Parthenon. On the metopes of this temple the famous deeds of Hercules and Theseus were excellently repre sented. The temple of Zeus Olympius was of Corinthian architecture, and was the largest temple in Athens, and the greatest ever erected to the supreme deity of the Greeks. It was begun by Pisistratus about 530 Lc., and con tinued from time to time until at length, after 700 years, it was finished by Hadrian. The outside of this temple was adorned by 104 fluted columns, 561/2 feet high and feet in diameter. It was 354 feet long and 135 broad. Other structures deserving of notice were the Horologium of Andronicus Cyrrhestes or the of the Winds,* the choragic monument of Lysicrates, and the Stoa Poikile or Painted Porch, in the Hellenic Agora or Market. Be
sides these wonderful works of art Athens contained many other places which must always be interesting from the recollections connected with them. Such a spot was the renowned Academy where Plato taught, lying about six stadia (X of a mile) north of the city, and con sisting of a gymnasium surrounded by walks, groves and fountains. Such a place was the Lyceum, where Aristotle taught, and which, through him, became the seat of the Peripatetic School. It lay on the bank of the Ilissus, oppo site the city, and was also used for gymnastic exercises. Not far from thence was the less renowned Cynosarges, where Antisthenes, the founder of the Cynic School, taught. The sects of Zeno and Epicurus held their meetings in the city. Zeno chose the well-known Poikile, and Epicurus established himself in a garden within the walls, for he loved both society and rural quiet. Not only literary but political assemblies gave a particular interest to different places in Athens. Here was the court of Areop agus, where that illustrious body gave their decisions; the Prytaneum or centre of official life and the Buleuterium or senate-house; the Pnyx, where the free people of Athens deliber ated. After 23 centuries of war and devasta tion, of changes from civilized to savage mas ters, have passed over this great city, its ruins still excite astonishment. The northern wing of the Propylaea is still tolerably perfect, and the inner wall, with its five gateways leading into the Acropolis, still stands. The Parthenon remained almost entire till 1687, when it was much injured by an explosion of gunpowder during the siege of Athens by the Venetians. It is now a magnificent ruin. Its two pedi ments represented, respectively, the contest of Poseidon and Athena for Athens and the birth of the goddess, while the metopes represented the battles of the gods and the giants, of the Athenians and the Amazons, of the Centaurs and Lapithm, and lastly the siege of Troy and victory over the Persians. The celebrated frieze depicted the great Panathenaic procession in honor of the goddess. A great number of these sculptures are now in the British Museum. In the whole of this mutilated building we find an indescribable expression of grandeur and sublimity. Near the Propylaea is the small but elegant Ionic temple of Athena Nike or Nike Apteros (Wingless Victory), which having been destroyed in 1687, was re-erected in 1835 from its remains. There are well-preserved remains to be seen of the Erechtheum, especially the beautiful female figures called Caryatides, supporting the roof of the southern portico. The Tower of the Winds is still tolerably per fect. Its form is an octagon; on each side it is covered with reliefs, which represent one of the principal winds. The choragic monument of Lysicrates also remains. It consists of a ped estal surrounded by a colonnade, and is sur mounted by a dome of Corinthian architecture. In southeast Athens are the lofty ruins of the temple of the Olympian Zeus. Of 104 pillars 16 remain, but none of the statues are in exist ence. The pedestals and inscriptions are scat tered here and there, and partly buried in the earth. The main body of the temple of Hephaes tus has remained almost entire, and is the best preserved edifice of the ancient Greek world; it now contains a Byzantine collection. On the hill where the famous court of Areopagus held its sittings are to be seen steps hewn in the rock, a roughly leveled platform and cuttings in the rock. The Pnyx, the place of assembly for the people, not far from the Areopagus, is very nearly in its primitive state. One may see the place from which the orators spoke hewn in the rock, the seats of the scribes, and at both ends the places of those officers whose duty it was to preserve silence, and to make known the events of public deliberations. The niches for votive offerings are still to be seen. The spot occupied by the Lyceum has not been ex actly identified. The ground occupied by the gardens of the Academy is still well cultivated and fertile. The long walls are totally de stroyed, though the foundations are yet to be found on the plain. The Piraeus has scarcely anything of its ancient splendor, except a few ruined pillars scattered here and there, though it promises to become a handsome modern town and has again a harbor filled with ship ping, engaged in carrying on a considerable trade. The ancient Stadium, 670 feet long by 109 wide, where the Panathenaic games were held, first constructed by Lycurgus, c. 330 B.C., and rebuilt in white marble by Herodes Atticus, 140 A.D., has recently been magnificently re stored through the generosity of another Greek merchant, M. Averoff, in accordance with the ancient remains. The Olympic games were held here in 1896 and 1906. Ancient Athens is believed to have had a population of not more than 200,000.