To obtain a correct idea of the modern ban quet, however, the public banquet conceived and executed in the most perfect taste, it is only necessary to recall the dinner given at Com peigne by President Loubet of France in honor of the Tsar and Tsarina of Russia. One of the most magnificent and perfectly appointed affairs of modern times, its 500 covers were served at a cost to the French government of something more than $15,000, exclusive of the wines. And as these were the choicest brands and of the most ancient lineage their cost must have been fully as great as that of the dinner itself.
A story is told that upon this occasion the correspondent of one of the great foreign journals interviewed the chef for the purpose of securing some authentic details concerning the dinner. Among other questions he asked: "And what was the chief novelty of the menu?* Instantly the great man stood upon his dignity and his voice was strong in its wrath as he replied: "Novelties! I would have you know that on the table of the guests of our country we lay no second editions." A reply which might have been made by Vatel, the chef who killed himself, being unable to survive the dis honor of the table fOr which he was respon sible.
In the various descriptions of President Loubet's banquet to the reigning sovereigns of Russia little is said in regard to the decorations or service, the writers confining themselves to the menu, that being the most important feature of the feast. Mention is made, how ever, that the flags, flowers, ribbons and spun sugar ornaments united in a decorative scheme with effectively beautiful results.
In regard to the menu, however, it is ap parent that it left nothing to be desired. The soups were clear turtle and Creme du Barry, which gave the guests a choice, after which "came a wonderful dish of soft roes called on the bill of fare (Caisses de laitances Diep poise,' and another, (Barbues dorees a la Vatel,) served with a remarlcable sauce in which a hundred elements harmonized in a perfect whole. Venison with an acid dressing
and braised quail, the most delicate bird of the species, a native of the vineyards of central France, followed the entrees. Aftenvard, in turn came sherbets, granites, etc., succeeded by muffled pheasants with champagne sauce, salad Potel, named for the chef who invented it and similar delicacies." The triumphal achievement, however, was a savory entremet which is described as a "small pudding of as paragus heads served with a cream sauce." Hot-house fruits, ices, cheese and coffee com prised the final courses of the feast.
One of the exhibits which attracted the most attention at the last Paris Exposition was a service of Sevres which was admittedly the most beautiful and costly production that the famous potteries had ever attempted. Upon each piece of china was pictured a danseuse, but no two were the same in either pose or type of loveliness. Realizing that the one "hobby" of the Tzarina was her love for beau tiful china, of which she already had a famous collection, including the best specimens of the work of all the great potteries of the world, it was decided to copy this magnificent service in every detail. It was thus used at the ban quet and was afterward presented to the first lady of Russia in the name of President Loubet.
The occasion upon which one nation enter tains the rulers of another nation is an event when, if at any time, even the most ostenta tious display nught be regarded as permissible. If contrasted with the seemly manner of liv ing in vogue among modern diners at ordinary times this banquet of the French President may, in some respects perhaps, have bordered upon ostentation. When compared to the ex travagant feasts of other days, however, it seems strildng in its simplicity, for nothing could have been in greater contrast to the ex travagant luxury of the banquets of the an cients, to say nothing of that of many more modern rulers, that fuxury which precedes, if it does not lead to, decadence.