BORDEAUX WINES. The finer red wines of the country around Bordeaux are the best which France produces. They contain but little alcohol, keep well and even improve by removal. As the original fermentation is com plete, they are, if judiciously managed, less sub ject to disorder and acidity than the Burgundy wines. None of the very best quality, however, is exported pure; a bottle of the best Chateau Margaux or Haut-Brion is a rarity hardly to be procured in Bordeaux itself at the rate of six or seven francs a bottle. For export, the secondary growths of Medoc are mingled with the rough Palus. The red wines of Bordeaux are known in America under the name of claret. They have less aroma and spirit but more astringency than the Burgundy wines. They are the safest wines for daily use, as they are among the most perfect of the light wines and do not easily cause intoxication. In this respect they contrast with the Burgundy wines, which have more generous qualities than those of Bordeaux, although these wines have some times been accused of producing the gout, but this disparagement is without reason. Persons who habitually drink madeira, port, etc., and indulge in an excess of claret may indeed be visited in that way, because a transition from the strong, brandied wines to the lighter is al ways followed by a derangement of the digest ive organs.
The principal vineyards are those of Medoc, Graves, Palus and Vignes Blanches; after these those of Entre-deux-Mers, Saint Emilion and the Bourgeais are the most important. The first growth of Medoc are the famous wines of Château-Margaux, Lafitte and Latour. The Lafitte is characterized by its silky softness on the palate and a perfume partaking of violet and raspberry. The Latour is fuller, has more aroma but less softness. The Château-Mar gaux is lighter than the Latour and delicate like the Lafitte, but has not so high a flavor. Of the second growth we may mention the Rauran and the Leoville. The soil of Midoc is a sandy and calcareous loam. The gravelly lands
Graves) to the south and west of Bor produce the Graves. The first growth of the red Graves is the Haut-Brion, which rivals the first growth of Medoc; it has more color and body, but is inferior in aroma and taste. The principal white Graves are Saint Bris and Carbonieux. The best Medoc ought to be kept three or four years before removal, the Graves five or six. The wines of Palus, which is a bed of rich alluvial deposits, are inferior to the preceding; they are stronger and more deeply colored than those of Medoc. Being hard and rough, they are improved by a voyage and are principally sent to the East Indies and America as vins de cargaison, or are mixed with Medoc which is intended for exportation. By the voy age they become more light and delicate but are not to be compared with the growths of Medoc and the Graves. The best are Queyries and Mont Ferrand. The former are deeply colored and have much body. Age gives them an agree able aroma, resembling that of a raspberry.
Among the white Bordeaux wines, besides those already mentioned, the finest growths are Sauternes, Preignac, Barsac and Bommes. Mar tillac and Saint Medard are of a good quality and have lightness and body. Dariste, formerly Dulamon, is equal to Saint Bris and Carbonieux. Among other red wines are the Bourgeais, which are of a fine color and acquire by age lightness and an agreeable almond aroma; of all the Bordelais wines they most resemble the Burgundy wines. The first growths are De bosquet, Chiteau-Rousset, Tajac and Falfax. The Bourgeais wines were formerly preferred to Midoc. The wines of Saint Emilion have been much esteemed. The Fronsac and Canon are the best. Those of Entre-deux-Mers be come agreeable with age. The vins des Cotes are good vies ordinaires; they are generally fermes and hard, and improve by age. The best are those of Bassens and Cenon. Consult Henderson's of Ancient and Modern Wines.'