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Count Calice

calico, art, calico-printing, printing, printed and europe

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CALICE, COUNT Heinrich, Diplomatist, ambassador and linguist of international fame: b. August 1831; d. Goerz, 28 Aug. 1912. His first activities began in the year 1857 when he was appointed consul for the Dual Monarchy at Constantinople. Later he served in Liverpool, China and Japan. In 1876, while the Serbian i War was in progress, he was sent with full powers, by Count Andrassy, as the Austro-Hun garian representative, to the eventful conference that ended in initiation of hostilities between Russia and Turkey. At the conference Count Ignatieff, the Russian Plenipotentiary, strongly urged armed entry into Serbia, but was resisted by Lord Salisbury, supported Count Calice. In 1880 Baron Calice was appointed Austrian Ambassador to the Porte,—which position he held for 26 years. Notwithstanding the fact that he presented four ultimatums to Turkey, he was at all times a trusted friend of the ex Sultan. Baron Calice was the oldest active diplomatist in Europe, and became the dean of the diplomatic corps in Constantinople.

the art of produc ing on calico or cotton cloth variegated patterns by the process of printing; the object, as a rule, being to have the colors composing the designs as fast as possible to washing and other in fluences. It is similar to the art of dyeing, but differs from it in so far that the coloring mat ters are fixed on certain carts of the fabric only, to form a pattern. Linen, wool and silk fabrics are printed in a similar manner, but less extensively. The origin of the art of printing is probably coeval with that of dyeing (q.v.). India is generally regarded as the birthplace of calico-printing, and the word calico is derived from the name of the Indian town Calicut, where it was at one time extensively manufac tured and printed. Calico-printing, as an Egyptian art, was first described by Pliny in the 1st century. Indian printed chintz calicoes were introduced into Europe by the Dutch East India Company, and the first attempts at imitating them in Europe are said to have been made in Holland, but at what exact date is uncertain.

The art, however, soon spread to Germany and England, where it is said to have been intro duped about 1676, two of the earliest works be ing situated at Richmond on the Thames, and at Bromley Hall, Essex. In 1738 calico print works were established in Scotland in the neighborhood of Glasgow, and in 1764 at Barn ber Bridge, near Preston, in Lancashire. At the present time the chief seats of the calico printing trade in Great Britain are still in the neighborhood of Glasgow and Manchester. The chief European seat of calico-printing is Mfilhausen, in Germany, and it is practised in various towns in France, Austria, Russia, Swit zerland, Holland and the United States.

Calico-printing is of a highly complex char acter, and enlists not only the co-operation of the arts of designing, engraving, bleaching and i dyeing, but also an important element of suc cess, the science of chemistry.

The first operation to which the gray calico i is submitted, as it comes from the loom, is that of singeing. This consists in burning off the loose downy fibres from the surface by passing the pieces rapidly, in an open and stretched con dition, over red-hot plates or a row of smoke less Bunsen gas flames. The object of singe ing is to obtain a smooth surface on the calico, thus ensuring the production of clear, sharp impressions during the printing process. The next operation is that of bleaching, which consists in boiling the fabric with weak alkaline solutions, followed by a treatment with cold dilute solutions of bleaching-powder and acid, interspersed with frequent washings with water. By these means the natural impurities of the cotton are removed, and the calico ultimately presents a snow-white appearance. A number of pieces are now stitched together, wrapped on a wooden roller, i and passed through a so called shearing machine, in which, by means of a spiral cutter similar to that in a lawn-mower, any projecting knots, loose fibres or down are finally removed. In this condition the calico is ready for the printer.

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