Realizing that there must be an intelligible system adaptable to all institutions if the many as in the linings of the hoods of Princeton, Columbia, University of Pennsylvania, Johns Hopkins, Cornell, University of California, University of Illinois, University of Michigan, Northwestern, University of Pittsburgh, Tulane and many others. In order to make variations in combining the same two colors when used by various institutions, one color is used as the field and the second as the chevron; another institution reverses by using the second color as the field and the first as the chevron. Then one is used above the other in the hood lining, the dividing line being on the line of a chevron (parti-per-chevron). Sometimes two or three chevrons of the first color are set on the field of the second color and then two or three chevrons American colleges were ever to enjoy the full advantages of academic costume, an inter collegiate commission was formed in 1893 and there was prepared a tentative draft of a uniform code for caps, gowns and hoods for the various degrees, designed so as to show in the hoods also the sources of the degrees by use of the college colors. Col. John J. McCook of the Princeton trustees, President Seth Low and Bishop Potter of the Columbia trustees, Rev. Charles Ray Palmer of the Yale trustees and Chancellor MacCracken of New York Uni versity were the most active members of this commission, and the writer of this article was called in as a technical adviser. He prepared colored sketches; made up experimental hoods and gowns; and solved the problem of satisfactorily combining two colors in a hood lining by the adaptation of the heraldic chevron of the second color on the field of the first color. A few zones are set on fields of other colors.
The Intercollegiate system makes the follow ing distinctions in the gowns, hoods and caps.
The commission offered its code to all higher institutions of learning and it was soon officially adopted by the leading universities and colleges and generally understood to be in effect throughout the country. The Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume was established at Albany, N. Y., and did the work of register ing the official colors in their official arrange ments as the various institutions adopted them. It has required much labor to keep distinct the hood linings of more than 700 institutions that use the Intercollegiate System in the United States, Philippines, Porto Rico, Turkey, Syria and Canada. Degrees from French, German and Swiss universities held by residents of America are also shown by characteristic linings duly registered after suitable official action.
Correct and differing shades of the same colors have to be registered and gown makers are con fronted with the problem of keeping the colors the same through the passing years which can only be done by having considerable quantities woven to order of each color, as recorded by the Intercollegiate Bureau at Albany, N. Y. This bureau is working under a charter granted in 1902 by the Regents of the University of the State of New York and has for its object ((to establish and maintain a library relating to the universities, professional, technical and ad vanced schools and colleges of the world, par ticularly as to their membership and their cere monial and other public appearances, including their gowns, hoods, caps, robes, badges, banners, arms and other regalia used on such occasions; to maintain a register of statutes, codes and usages, designs and descriptions of the articles of academic costume and regalia with their cor rect colors, materials, qualities, sizes, propor tions and the arrangement thereof ; to promote social intercourse among members of univer sities and colleges and to disseminate informa tion on the subjects above mentioned." The bureau aims to keep from confusion the distinctive details of symbolic academic costume and to aid without charge all institutions with any information in its possession. It invites correspondence.
The use of hoods by graduating classes has been increasing in recent years and candidates who are known as eligible, often don the hoods for the baccalaureate sermon or at a special ceremony at the beginning of commencement week known as "Hi Juvenes" when the names of those who have passed the final examinations are read off. The hoods, with their esthetic brightening of the otherwise rather sombre costumes and their appeal to college spirit by the display of the college colors, thus yield their significance during the full period of commence ment time.
Bibliography.— Calthrop, Dion Clayton,
Costume) (Vol. II, p. 142, London 1906) ;