RO IT PRUNING. The principal objects sought to be gained by root pruning is, first to so check the growth as to induce early fruitful ness; second, to induce the formation of fibrous roots, third, to prevent blight, and fourth, as a means of preparing a tree for subsequent removal with a mass of earth attached. Root prnning has the direct effect of at once cutting off a supply of sap. Therefore the NV ork should be performed understandingly. The leaves not being furnished with their usual quantity of sap, the branches are checked in growth, and as a fruit bud is well known to be but, a modification of a leaf bud, it naturally follows that the ener gies of the tree heing checked, that fruit buds are apt to be formed for the next season's growth. It 'would therefore follow that root pruning to induce fruitfulness should be performed early in the season or before the full season of growth. To induce the formation of fibrous roots and to check early blossoming, the pruning may be done in the latter part of winter or as early in the spring as the ground is well settled. For the prevention of blight the late Dr. Hull, one of the most successful of Illinois' orchardists, has stated the following: If root pruning the pear is to be done to induce tardy bearing trees to become fruitful, then the pruning should be at such time, and with sufficient severity, to cause the trees to produce their leaves fully grown at least six weeks before frost in autumn. But when the pruning is be done to ward off the attacks of blight, then the roots must be so much shortened that the tree will show terminal buds on leading shoots, at the earliest period that trees are known to show the effects of blight in the sap wood. No rule based on time can be given, since each north or south, would make some variation necessary. Or, to be more explicit, the degree of maturity vvould be reached earlier South than North. For instance take Seckel trees making moderate growth. These in latitude 39° would show terminal buds, at the ends of the latest growing shoots, about June 1; 3° south, the 1.5th to the 20th of May; while a similar condition of growth as far north as the 43° could not occur earlier than July 1. For these and similar rea sons auy rule made as a guide for root pruning must have reference to conditions rather than time. The conclusions given above are based on microscopic examinations, also on observations made on root pruning, extending through a period of more than twenty- years. Dr. Hull believed that in no instance can pear tree blight materially injure a tree on vvhich all the leaf g,rowth is well developed by the time the first branch growth of slow growing Seckel trees is ended; provided a second growth is not made. Excellent examples in support of this view may be found in the Seckel growing on poor soils. Under such conditions the trees form terminal buds on the strongest of the current year's shoots at the timc we have named. It is proba ble that these slow growing Seckel trees could not blight, in fact do not, until a second flow of sap occurs. Thus, Seckel, and other trees of similar habits of growth, could be kept in health by a moderate shortening of the roots; while trees which continue branch and leaf growth to a later period, must be more severely root pruned. Theoretically considered, especially for the South, pruning to secure early maturity of vvood growth is wrong; since trees which naturally go to rest early, alter they have been a short time inactive, generally cast their leaves and then make a partial second growth, which is injuri ous or fatal to them. Observation, however,bas taught the important lesson that root-pruned trees make but one growth the same season. When severe top pruning is done, then the roots grow slowly until the balance in the top and roots is again restored. In like manner, trees vvhich are deprived ol a part of their roots push only a part of their germ branches, these are soon grown. After this branch growth has
ceased the leaves continue a long vvhile active and change leaf to fruit buds; a large number of buds are so chahged. After which, all further growth of the season, if there be any, goes to restore the loss of the roots. Trees pruned as directed, do not again restore the balance between the top and roots before the eud of the second season. Hence it vvas conceded that root pruned pear trees, growing under any of the con ditions described, could not blight until the third summer. For this reason, shortening the roots once in two years, in accordance vvith the rule it was claimed, would protect the trees from injury by blight. Among. other advantages gained by root pruning, besides preventing blight, may be named the following: Root pruned pear trees generally resist leaf blight. Tardy bearing trees, perfect fruit buds the first summer, after their roots have been cut, and produce full crops of fruit the next. The size of the fruit is much increased. The pears on root pruned trees are smooth-skinned and free from russet patches and bands, and on ripening, color finely; in this respect rivaling the Cali fornia pears, which they also greatly excel in quality. Root-pruned pear trees, on pear roots, may be dwarfed to almost any extent desired. Trees of any age after they have been several times root pruned, may be safely transplanted. The operation is thoroughly performed as fol lows: Root pruning may be performed from November to April. The latter part of winter or spring is best, as the subsoil is then easily pene trated by a spade. For trees the circumference of which is twelve inches at one foot above the ground, mark a circle around the tree, the semi diameter of which shall not exceed eighteen inches from the trunk. For trees larger thau twelve inches, for each additional three inches of girth, enlarge the diameter of the circle three inches. Next, with a sharp spade open a trench outside of the circle to the depth of not less than three feet, cutting all lateral roots to that depth. For a tree measuring twelve inches, this will leave a round ball of earth of the diameter of forty inches to contain the lateral roots left after pruning. After having the work inspected, fill the trench with top soil and give thorough cultivation until August at the north part of Illinois, latitude 42', and until October in lati tude 38°. Once in two years repeat the operation enlarging the diameter of the circle three inches with each additional operation. The effect of this pruning is to force the trees to form their terminal buds on the leading shoots by the time the blight first appears, which in the latitude of St. Louis occurs about May 25 to the 1st of June. Root pruning, for the purpose of' rendering a tree safe to remove, though the formation of new roots should be performed early in the spring, or better late in the previous fall, so as to allow a full season's growth previous to removal. In root pruning, however, as in ring ing, the operator must understand the nature of the tree to be operated on, as well as to ha,ve a correct idea of the changes that are to occur. For general orchard work a subsoil plow, with the coulter ground sharp, is simply run deeply both ways in the orchard, cutting the earth in squares about the trees. In more restricted grounds, a sharp, long-bladed spade is thrust deeply in the earth in a circle about the tree. This often has fully as good an effect as the more scientific pruning, and is applicable to all trees and shrubs of rampant growth. In the fruit garden it will pay, when it may not do so in extensive orchard culture, and for one reason that finer varieties are usually grown there than in the commercial orchards.