Though possessing almost innumerable streams, New Ulster, in consequence of the mountain ridges running in general in a north and south direction through the length of the island, has but few con siderable rivers. They are chiefly mountain streams, which, falling from the eastern or western slopes, cuter the sea, and are seldom capable of being used for navigation. Of the larger ones we proceed to give a short notice. The first, beginning at the northern end, is the ITokianya, which, rising near Ngate, about 20 miles from the junction of the isthmus, proceeds in a north-easterly course to the head of the (estuary of the Hokianga on the west coast, its course not exceeding 10 miles. The Wairoa is one of the largest of the rivers. The remotest branches rise in the country between Hokianga and the Bay of Islands; it flows in a south-easterly direction; its whole course is perhaps not less than 200 miles, measured along the windings, and it falls into the Kaipara Harbour at its northern end. It is navigable for large vessels for about 70 miles above the head of the harbour. Canoes can ascend about 70 miles farther, beyond which their advance is prevented by rapids. The valley through which the river flows is generally two miles wide, and of great fertility. The Otarnatca rises in the hills in the neighbourhood of 1Vaugari Harbour, and runs probably less than 100 miles. The valley is also fertile, but of smaller extent than that of the Wairua. It falls into Kaipara Harbour nearly opposite its entrance : it is navigable for many miles from its mouth. The Kaipara River, which falls into the most southern inlet of the basin, flows north-westerly, has a very winding course in a moderates sized valley bounded by the hills which extend along the sea-coast between Kaipara and Manukao Harbour, and is separated from an inlet of the harbour of Auckland in the Gulf of Hauraki by a neck of land about three miles wide, consisting of low hills, across which the natives frequently dragged their canoes in time of war. The tide ascends the Kaipara for several miles from its mouth, and so far it is navigable for large vessels. The Waikato is the largest river in New Ulster. Its source is in the Rangitoto Mountains, or rather in a con tinuation south of them, called the Kai Munatoa Range. It is a com bination of numerous streams which fall into Lake Taupe, the Waikato being the outlet of that lake. Lake Taupo is 1337 feet above the sea level, or higher than the Lake of Geneva. The Waikato leaves the lake at its north-eastern extremity, and is there about 300 yards wide and very deep. It runs first north-east, but afterwards in a general north-north-west direction, until it reaches 37° 30' S. lat., when it is joined by its great tributary the Waipa. In approaching Manukao Bay it turns south-west, and falls into the sea. The whole course of the Waikato probably exceeds 250 milea. In the middle part of its course the navigation, if not entirely interrupted, is rendered difficult by numerous rapids. The mouth of this river does not form a bay, but is a narrow channel, which at low water only vessels of about 30 tons can enter ; but inside the headlands it is a full river, and when the tide is in it is navigable for large vessels for about 40 or 50 miles to the place where it is joined by the river Wale& This river rises in the Rangitoto Mountains north-west of Lake Taupo, and runs above 100 miles, of which about 60 miles are navigable for large boats. To the east is a plain drained by three rivers, the 1Vaiho, the Waitou, and the Piako, which receives the Waiton before it and the Waiho fall into the Gulf of Hauraki, at the east and west corners of its southern end. The TVaiho, which is also called the Thames, drains the plain in its whole extent, rising in the If °rebore Hills, on the border of the table-land of Roturua. Its course is about 100 miles, of which 90 miles are navigable for large boats. The Piako, which rises on the hills bordering the western side of the plain, is much smaller, and runs only about 30 miles. The Mokau rises on the western side of the Raugitoto Mountains, and after a course of about 20 miles falls into the sea in 38' 30' S. lat. Somewhat south-east of the upper sources of the Waiho lies the table-land of Roturua, ao called from the largest of the numerous lakes which are dispersed over its surface. The Lake of Rotorua is about 24 miles in circumference, and nearly circular. Near it there are many hot-springs, and some of them close to jta banks. From some of the openings in the ground every five minutes a column of steam and water, two feet in diameter, is thrown up to the height of three or four feet. Other lakes are filled with warm water, and in some of them the thermometer data to 95°, or 30 degree, higher than the air. There are several cones of pure sulphur, and mud volcanoes. The soil consists of a black mould a few inches thick, resting on a enbetratum of pumice gravel. It is in general light, but possesses a considerable degree of fertility. The Wanganui rises on the north-western declivity of the volcanic peaks of Puki Onaki, and runs with numerous windings to Petre, on Cook Strait. The mouth is more than half a mile wide, and has on the bar 8 feet of water. Vessels of 230 tons have passed over it, but at low water the sea breaks across the bar. Inside the bar the river grows deeper, and is about 300 yards wide. The banks are here low and sandy, and covered with drift-wood and pamice-stone, which the river brings down from the volcanic region surrounding its source. At the distance of some miles an extensive flat extends along the banks, which is bare of timber and even of bushes, and in its natural state is covered with flax and fern : it is considered well adapted for grazing. Ahout 30 miles from the month the river flows between hills, which are well wooded, and extend to the base of Mount Tongariro. But in approaching that summit the country is again more open and flat, though much broken. The Wangaiku rises from the same source on Ruapahu as the Waikato, and falls into the sea 9 miles south from the Wanganui. The Masa matu takes its rise on the southern declivity of Mount Ruapahu, and runs along the eastern side of the Rua-Wahine Range, southward, in a valley between mountain ridges, about 70 or 80 miles, when it pierces tho range through a cleft by turning westward, and enters the lower country along Cook Strait, about 40 miles aonth from Petro. As, with all the rivers in Cook Strait, the force of the current is not strong enough to remove the sand which is thrown up at its mouth by tho south-westerly and north-westerly winds, and the depth over the bar is only 6 feet at low water : the tide rises 8 feet. The breadth at the mouth is about 300 yards at half tide.
Cook Strait, which separates New Ulster from New Munster, is about 150 miles long, and lies from south-by-east to north-by-weat. At its southern entrance, between Cape Kawakawa in New Ulster and Cape Campbell in New Munster, it is about 50 miles wide; but the promontories which form its northern entrance, Cape Farewell in New Munster and Cape Egmont in New Ulster, are more than 100 miles distant from each other. At the narrowest part, opposite Cape Terawiti, the strait is not quite 30 miles acmes. The tide rune from the south at the rate of five knots an hour during spring-tidos. The
prevailing winds near the southern entrance, for the greater part of the year, are from the south and south-east, and often increase to heavy gales, augmenting the rush of water through the straits, and making considerable inroads on the coast. In the northern and wide portions of the strait the prevailing winds all the year round blow from the north-west and aouth-wcst, and cause a heavy swell to set against the shores of New Ulster, between the island of Kapiti and Cape Egmont. This coast has no harbours, and as the sea to a great distance from the shore is shallow, vessels are obliged to keep a good offing. The island of Kapiti, called by Cook the Island of Entry, is the most remarkable of the islands of the atrait. It is about 25 miles in circumference, and consists of a ridge of hills rising in some places to the height of 600 feet. These hills descend abruptly to the west ward and eastward, but at the southern extremity they are low and undulating. At the north-eastern point is an extensive alluvium, with a lagoon in the middle. To the east of the southern extremity of Kapiti are three small islands, which, together with Kapiti, form a roadstead, which is sheltered from the prevailing north-west winds by Kapiti, and from the south-east winds by the three islets, and affords a safe anchorage.
Tavai-Poenammoo, now called New Munster, is separated from New Ulster by Cook Strait. It extends from 40° 25' to 46° 40' S. lat., and lies between 166° 20' and 174° 30' E. long. It contains, according to a rough estimate, about 50,000 square miles. The interior of this large island is not ao well known as New Ulster. Seen from the sea, a chain of apparently uninterrupted mountains is observed at some distance from the shore on the western aide ; on the eastern aide are other ranges at a greater distance from the shore ; and at the northern end, which terminates on Cook Strait, are three extensive masses of high mountain rock, with valleys between them, which, considering the wide masses of rocks that inclose them, must be called narrow. The mountains, even at a small distance from the shores, rise to 3000 feet, and farther inland they attain a much greater elevation. The highest of these ranges seems to be the western, which fills up the whole country west of Tasman Bay, and falls off with a steep declivity to Massacre Bay. In the centre of it stands Mount Arthur, which is always covered with snow, and probably rises 8000 feet above the sea level. It is divided from the central mass by a narrow depression, extending, as it appears. far inland. This depressiou is not a plain, but is traversed by several ridges of high and steep hills running in the direction of the island from south-west to north-east. The lower tracts between these hills are in some places extensive, and drained by several rivers, of which the Waimea is the largest. The central mass of mountains is called Pelorus Ridge, and occupies the whole country between Tasman Bay and Cloudy Bay. It terminates on the shores of the strait in three projecting peninsulas, which incloae two very long inlets, Admiralty Bay and Queen Charlotte Sound, in which several safe anchorages are found, well protected against all winds, as the surrounding mountains rise to an elevation of from 2000 to 3000 feet. As the mountains generally rise from the water's edge with a steep ascent, only a few places of small extent occur near the shores, on the slopes or in the ravines, which are fit for cultivation. On the .east side of this mass is an indentation, which constitutes the harbour of Underwood. This port is a deep inlet formed by hills, from which numerous buttresses run out towards the sea, and form as many small coves, in which vessels find good shelter. Port Underwood opens to the south-west into Cook Strait, and is frequently resorted to by whaling vessels. South of Port Underwood the mountains run inland, and give way to a wido depression, which extends along the chorea of Cloudy Bay to the vicinity of Cape Campbell. This elevated cape is the termination of the range of mountains which is called Kaikora, or the Southern Alps, and is covered with anew nearly all the year round. The country between Port Underwood and Cape Campbell is comparatively level, and drained by several small rivers, among which the largest is the Wairao, which has a bar at its entrance. From Cape Campbell, on the eastern ooast, the mountains stretch inland in a south-west direction ; Mount Kaikora being 9300 feet high, and other peaks ranging from 4000 to 5000 feet in height. It joins a mountain group near 43° S. lat, from which all the other ranges in the island appear to diverge. From Mount Grey, in 43° 5' S. lat., a crescent-shaped ridge runs at the back of the Canterbury settlement, and ends on the left bank of the ICakauoui River; near the sea, in 45° 10' S. let., a great part of the range is above the snow-level, but there are passes through it into the central plaio. Rowley Point is 5000 feet high, and Mount Peel, Mount Somers, Mount Richards, and Mount Torlesse, aro probably about the same height. Of !the western coast Captain Cook says :—"From Cape Farewell to 41° 30' S. lat. there is a narrow ridge of bills that rises directly from the sea and is covered with wood : close behind these hills are the mountains, extending in a ridge of stupendous height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with snow, which is to be seen in largo patches upon many parts of them, and has probably lain there ever since the creation of the world. A prospect more rude, craggy, and desolate than this country affords from a distance at sea cannot possibly be conceived ; for, as far inland DA the eye can reach, nothing appears but the summita of rocka,which stand so near together, that instead of valleys there are only fissures between them." From 41° 30' to 45' S. lat. the country presents a better aspect. Well-wooded hills and some extensive valleys occur. All the indentations of this coast, which are numerous, are open to the westerly winds and the swell of the sea, except Milford Haven (44° 30' S. lat.). The south-western extremity of New Munster is bounded by elevated chalky cliff., which are luterseeted by numerous narrow arm. of the sea. These inlets afford safe anchorage to shipping from every wind. The principal of these ports are called Dusky Bny, Preservation Harbour, and Chalky Bay. The most southern part of New Munster is the widest part, and In Favourite Strait, which sepa rates it from New Leinster, are a few good bays, the principal being Bluff Harbour. There are no mountains to be seen here from the sea. This comparatively level tract, which is moderately elevated, continues nerth-eastward to Port Otago, where a settlement has been effected. Port Otago is an Inlet of tho sea, running in a west south-west direc tion about 13 miles: it is well sheltered by highlands. The entrance has a bar across, with 35 fathoms of water. Within the harbour it deepen* to 9 fathoms. The navigable river Clutha, formerly called the Molyneux, fella into the most western corner of the bay. North of Otago high land an I a bold coast extends to Banks Peninsula, around and upon which the settlement of Canterbury has been formed.