SHOE TRADE. Under •BOOT AND SHOE MANUFACTURE, some of the mechanical features of this branch of industry were noticed. In the present article we shall treat briefly of the relation between the different kinds of werkpeople, and of the changes recently effected through the introduction of sewing.machines.
A shoemaker, in the old statutes, is called a cordwainer, apparently a corruption of the French cordonnier, which means a worker of Cordova leather. The companies of shoemakers in our ancient towns were incorporated under this name; and where some of these com panies still exist, they go by the same name. As a legal term cord wainer is still common. The law of England formerly took cognisance not only of the quality of the leather which the shoemaker wrought into his goods, but of the number of stitches that he furnished.
The trade, as now followed in London and other principal places, is subdivided into about twenty branches. The following may be set down as the chief : the shoeman, or maker of the sole part of the shoe; the &often, or maker of the sole part of the boot ; and the boot-closer, or joiner together of the leg, vamp, &c. The labour of these is especially directed to what is called the nun's line ; whilst others make the ladies' shoe or boot. There are many women, too, who get a livelihood by closing the shoe; while others again practise the various sorts of binding. In the manufacture of a boot, the clicker or cutter having designed snd cut the leather of the vamps, legs, &c., to the measure of the customer or the size wanted, the materials go to the closer. Much of the boot-closer's art, as now perfected, is of a very delicate nature, especially in the putting together or closing of all the parts of the top-boot, and the fancy-wrought and coloured Wellington ; the common Wellington being the easier portion of his occupation. The bootman does for the boot what the sheenier) does for the shoe ; he makes or attaches the sole. The labour of this person, however, is much better paid than that of the shoeman ; because it has a higher character, and considerably more time is required to complete the article. The best ahoemcn usually at the first opportunity take to be bootmen. The making of the woman's common or welted shoe re
sembles that of the man's ; and where it differs it is unnecessary here to explain. The man's and woman's single-sole shoes or pumps are also proceeded with in the same manner.
Formerly it was the general practice for the journeyman to work in the shop with his employer; two, three, six, or mere, all working together. The journeymen then had sometimes, as now, so much per pair ; but he was also paid by the day or week, or was even engaged as a quarterly or half-yearly servant. In every case he had his coals and candles in winter, and in all seasons his finding or grindery free, that is, his hemp, wax, paste, bristles, &c. Wages then were very low; but the work was of an inferior description, and tho habits of the time very plain and simple. Towards the end of the last century, the shoemaker's position improved. He gave up working in the shop of his master, or in garrets with several other men. If married, he followed his employment in his own home. If unmarried, he joined himself in a sort of partnership with another workman in a like condition, and taking a furnished lodging, felt more at ease than under the former system of constraint. This still is the practice among the better-paid classes of the trade.
In BOOT AND SHOE MANUFACTURE, the recent importations of boots, shoes, goloshes, and boot-fronts from foreign countries are noticed. The exports from the United Kingdom are not so easily determined, seeing that boots and shoes are in this instance included under the general designation of leather "wrought and unwrought," exclusive however of "saddlery." The return under this head for 1860 was 6,473,826 lbs., having a declared value of 1,407,557/. It is computed that about two-thirds of the above quantities consist of boots and shoes, which are exported chiefly to Australia and the other colonies. Mr. Ill'eulloch, in the latest edition of his Commercial Dictionary,' expresses an opinion that the boots and shoes now made annually in the United Kingdom have an aggregate value of 10,000,000/.; of which he sets down about ono-half for wages, and the other half for materials and profit..