The natural division of the Alps of Switzerland is formed by the immense mountain knot which is on the west of the mountain pass of the Saint Gothard, and surrounds the sources of the Rhone. A space exceeding 100 square tulles rises above the snow-Hoe, and is overtopped by numerous pointed summits, rising from 10,000 to 12,000 feet above the sea. The most remarkable of these summits are the Gallaustock, the Gletscherhern, the Diechtenhorn, the Triftenstock, the Sisatenhorn, and the Spitzliberg. From this mountain knot a chain runs north ward, and terminates at the narrow channel which connects the Lake of Uri with that of Luzern. This chain contains several lofty summits, among which is the Titlis, 11,406 feet high, and the Urner 'WW1/stock, 10,065 feet high. The chain whioh extends southward from the mountain knot between Val Formazza on the west and Valle 31aggia on the east does not contain any summit which rises above the snow• line, though several of them are between 6000 and 7000 feet high. From the western edge of the mountain knot issue two ranges, of which the northern, called the Barnes° Alps, raps west by south ; and the southern, called the Lepontian Alps, runs south-west, Two other ranges branch off from the east aide of the mountain knot. The southern, which runs nearly east, is called the Rhaetian Alps, and near 9' 50' E. long. divides into two ranges, of which the northern is called the Septimer Alps and the southern the Bernina Alps. These two ranges however do not run east, but north-eaat, and extend beyond the boundary-line of Switzerland into Tyrol. The northern range, branching off from the mountain knot of the Saint Gothard on the east, is also comprehended tinder the general name of the Rhmtian Alps, but. has lately received tho name of the Dddi Range, from its highest summit. It runs north-east, and terminates near the banks of the Rhine between 46° 40' and 47' N. Lat. These mountain regions and the valleys inclosed between them differ considerably in their productive powers.
The basin of the Upper Rhone, which constitutes the canton of Valais, is inclosed by the two most elevated and widest range. of the Alps, the Lepontian and Pennine Alps on the south, and the Bernese Alpo on the north. The southern range rune from the great mountain knot south south-west as far as the mountain pass of the Simplon, a distance of about 30 miles, and so far it bears the name of the Lepontiaa Alp.. Its mean elevation is about 7500 feet, but several auturnita attain 10,000 feet ; the width does not exceed 10 miles. There are several glaciers, but none of them of great extent. Some of them descend to the vicinity of the Pass of the Simplon, over which the great road leads from the Valais to Italy.
This road, which not long ago was considered one of the most magnificent works of modern times, was made by the French govern ment between 1800 and 1805. It connects the town of Briegg in Valais with Domo d'Ossola in Piedmont, and is about 33 miles long.
The width is about nine yards, and its rise and fall only about one inch and a quarter for every yard, so that it can easily be passed by carriages. It runs in most places between steep and nearly perpen dicular rocks, and at six places tunnels 30 feet high, with openings at the side to admit light, have been made through the rock. In several other places the road traverses precipices of great depth by means of substantial bridges. The highest part of the road is 6576 feet above the eea-level : Briegg is 2334 feet, and Dame d'Ossola 1004 feet above the sea-level. The road is in parts exposed at certain seasons to the ravages of torrents and avalanches, and is frequently out of repair.
West of the Pass of the Simplon are the Pennine Alps, which rise much higher, and occupy a much greater surface. The highest part
of this range extends from the Pass of the Simplon, nearly due south, about 20 miles, to the enormous mountain mass of Monte Rosa, where it turns west, and in that direction extends to the northern part of the mountain mass of Mont Blanc. (13r.s.xe, Moxr.] With the exception of two or three passes not much exceeding the elevation of 8000 feet above the sea-level, the general elevation approaches to the height of 10,000 feet above the sea; and the higher part of this range, with the exception of the passes, is covered with snow all the year round. This elevated mountain tract is of great extent. On its eastern edge are the summits of Mont Parabrancu, Cima do Jazzi (13,840 feet high), and Monte Rosa (15,22G feet); and on its southern edge, Mont Cervin (14,764 feet), Mout Combin (14,126 feet), and Mont Velan (11,043 feet), and several other summits of equal ele vation. Towards the east and south the mountains descend with a rapid declivity, and the valleys on that side in Piedmont are inhabited to the vicinity of the most elevated mass. But on the north the high masses extend many miles without falling below the snow-line, aud are overtopped by many summits rising to the height of 12,000 feet above the sea. They terminate about 6 miles from the banks of the Rhone. A tract between the Simplon on the east and Mont Combin on the west, and meaauriug in that direction 30 miles, with au average breadth of 15 miles, is covered with snow, ice, and glaciers, with the exception of only two valleys, Sam and San Nicalai, which are inha bited, and, uniting about 5 miles from banks of the Rhone, are called the Valley of Visp.
The Valley of the Milne lies north of the mountain region which has just been described. (Itnexe.] It is about 92 miles long. Its eastern portion, as far dawn as Briegg, varies between a quarter and half a mile in width. Below the confluence of the Rhone with the Visp the valley is from one to two miles wide, and in a few places the width is greater. Besides the valley of the Visp, the brauchea of which are inhabited to the distance of eighteen miles from the 1thOne, several lateral valleys open Into the valley of the Rhone, which are from a quarter to half a mile wide, and inhabited to the extent of six miles from the banks of the river. They occur in both the southern and northern mountain chains, and thus the iuhabited portion of this part of the country occupies about twelve miles in width. But between Sion and Martigny the unbroken mountain masses approach the river, and the inhabited tract is not more than two or three miles wide. Below the great bend, the rocky masses of the Dent-de-Moreles on the east, and of the Dent-du-Midi on the west, approach so near to the river, that in several places there is hardly room enough for a road along the banks of the stream. About eight miles from its influx into the Lake of Geneva, the low ground along the banks of the river becomes two miles wide. It is a swampy tract, very little elevated above the level of the lake, which is about 1210 feet above the sea-leveL The descent of the valley amounts to 3720 feat. Above Briegg cora remains in tho fields till the beginning of October, and it is reaped west of Slott in the month of June. The climate in the higher parts is cold even in summer; whilst in the lower, at the same season, the thermometer frequently rises to 85* and 90°. Only the common grains and roots of northern Europe are cultivated above Briegg, and some fruit-trees do not grow ; the lower districts produce maize ; and the vine, almond, aud fig tree flourish.