In the primitive method of working tapestry with the needle, the wool was usually applied to a kind of canvas, and the effect produced was coarse and defective ; but some finer kinds were embroidered upon a silken fabric. The process of weaving by the loom, after the manner known as the haute lisse, or high warp, was practised in the tapestries of Flanders (and according to Walpole and Jubinal, in those of England also), as early as the 14th and 15th centuries; the only essential difference between these and the productious of modern times being the comparative size of the pieces woven in the loom. The weaving of tapestry, both by the haute lisse and the basse lisse, appears to be of Oriental invention : the difference between the two methods may be thus briefly described. In the haute lisle the loom or frame with the warp-threads, is placed in a perpendicular position, and the weaver works standing; while in the basso lisse the frame with the warp is laid horizontally, and the weaver works in a sitting position. In weaving with the basso Ease, now seldom, if ever, employed, the design to be copied is laid beneath the threads of the warp, which are stretched in a manner resembling that of common weaving, the pattern being sup ported by a number of transverse threads stretched beneath it. The weaver, sitting before the loom, and leaning over the beam, carefully separates the threads of the warp with his fingers, so that he may see his pattern between them. He then takes in his other hand a kind of shuttle, called a fli2te, charged with silk or wool of the colour required, and passes it between the threads, after separating them in the usual way by means of treddlee worked by the feet. [ WEsvisto.] The thread of woof or shoot thus inserted is finally driven close up to the' finished portion of the work by means of a reed or comb formed of box-wood or ivory, the teeth of which are inserted between the threads of the warp. In this process the face of the tapestry is down wards, so that the weaver cannot examine his work until the piece is completed and removed from the loom. The haute lisle loom, which is differently worked, consists of two upright side-pieces, with large rollers placed horizontally between them. The threads of the warp, which usually consist of twisted wool, are wound round the upper roller, and the finished web is coiled round the lower one. The design to be copied is placed perpendicularly behind the back or wrong aide of the warp, and then the principal outlines of the pattern are drawn upon the front of the warp, the threads of which are sufficiently open to allow the artist to see the design between them. The cartoon is then removed so far back from the warp that the weaver may place himself between them with his back towards the former, so that he must turn round whenever he wishes to look at it. Attached to the upright side pieces of the frame are contrivances for separating the threads of the warp, so as to allow the ditIte, or broach, which carries the woof, to pass between them. Like the weaver with the basso lisse, the operator works, as it were, blindfold ; but by walk ing round to the front of the loom he may see the progress of his work, and may adjust any threads which have not been forced into their right position by the reed or comb, with a large needle, called an aiguille 4 presser. The process of working with the haute lisse is much slower than the other, and is, indeed, almost as slow as that of working with the needle.
It may be desirable in this place to say a few words concerning two varieties of carpet and rug-work, which, though not really tapestry, bear a certain resemblance to it, and are termed Patent Tapestry and Wool Mosaic.
The Patent Tapestry and Velvet-Pile Carpet, invented by Mr. Alexander Whytock, of Edinburgh, was intended to supersede the ordinary Brussels carpeting, and has to some extent had that effect. The peculiarity of this manufacture lies in the unlimited number of shades and colours that can be introduced ; insomuch that the most elaborately-coloured designs, with flowers and scrolls, can be executed.
There is also a very considerable saving of worsted, as compared with the older processes. The appearance is nearly similar to that of Brussels carpet, but the manufacture is more simple, each thread being coloured separately, at spaces, with the various shades as they follow each other in the design. The means by which this process is accom plished Is simple and beautiful ; but much care is required in placing and arranging the threads, and putting them on the beam. There being a heavy preparatory outlay incurred, each pattern must have a large sale to defray the cost.. In the article Ceure? Merereerrrat, certain descriptive details will be met with, which will serve to show how parti-coloured warps may be introduced to produce some such effect as is here denoted ; the exact apparatus and processes need not be described here.
The Wool Mosaic, patented and manufactured by Messrs. Crossley, of Halifax, is an exceedingly curious production, involving no weaving process whatever. It may be called a velvet tapestry effect, produced by mosaic' inertias. Artistic designs are prepared for this, of a higher order than is usual in carpets and rugs. The design on paper is ruled over in small squares, like a Berlin pattern; the size of the squares having a definite relation to the thickness of the woollen threads to be used. This design is re-copied upon ruled paper by girls, each of whom executes a portion of about a foot square. These papers then go into the factory. Woollen threads have previously been dyed to an almost infinite variety of colours, tints, and shades ; for sometimes there are as many as a hundred different varieties introduced in one rug. A woman, especially skilled in this art, selects from a classified list all the colours that will be needed, taking one thread for every single square throughout the pattern. These threads are then brought together by means of a very remarkable apparatus. Every thread is stretched out horizontally to a length of about 17 feet, and is kept tight by a I pull or force of about 4 lbe. One square foot of rug-work consists of about 50,000 threads, corresponding to that number of squares in the paper pattern. The force applied to the whole thus amounts to 200,000 lbs.; and hence the iron frame-work requires to be very strong. Girls, under the supervision of the mistress, are employed to stretch these threads, guided in so doing by bars and perforated plates. Thus they continue until a dense masts of worsted has been arranged, 17 feet long, 1 foot broad, and 1 foot deep. An ordinary hearth-rug, 6 feet by 2, requires' 12 of these masses to complete the pattern, or 600,000 threads in all ; equal to 10,200,000 feet, or miles of worsted thread. This enormous quantity is made up into about a thousand rugs, all exactly alike, in the following way. The masses are firmly bound up, and cut into portions of convenient length. They are then arranged with the 600,000 threads vertical, all according to the proper pattern. A slice is cut off from the top, tos'render the upper surface quite level, by means of a large circular cutter revolving horizontally with great rapidity. The surface is coated with a hot solution of India rubber and camphine, then dried, then coated again, and so on two or three times. A backing, formed of canvas, is laid on with a strong cement of eaontehone solution ; and a little rubbing or scraping makes it adhere very firmly to the worsted. The circular cutter then severs a layer A of an inch in thickness, which, by further processes, becomes appli cable as rug, carpet, hanging, curtain, or tapestry. The mass of threads is thus cut away about a thousand times, producing this number of repetitions of the pattern. Copies of elaborate pictures may thus be obtained. The process does not become commercially successful unless there is a large sale for each pattern.