WEAVING. If we take the term wearing in its broadest sense, as applied to the process of combining longitudinal threads into a super ficial fabric, it will have relation to the whole series of textile manu factures; not only those which are prepared in the loom, but likewise net-work, lace-work, and hosiery. We shall endeavour therefore in the present article to complete the details of manufacturing many textile fabrics which have been partially described in former articles.
Jfistcsry of Wearing.—From many passages in the Bible, and from the general character of dress, it is apparent that woven fabrics were known in very early times. In all probability weaving was practised before spinning; that is, the combination of reeds, strips of leather, or rude fibres into a material for dress, by a process analogous to that of weaving, preceded the practice of spinning yarn from a congeries of elementary fibres. Sir J. G. Wilkinson (' Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians ') observes,—" The Egyptians, from a most remote era, were celebrated for their manufacture of linen and other cloths ; and the produce of their looms was exported to, and eagerly purchased by, foreign nations. The fine linen and embroidered work, the yarn and woollen stuffs, of the upper and lower country, are fre quently mentioned, and were highly esteemed." The same authority states that the looms, found depicted on the tombs at Thebes, are of an exceedingly rude construction ; but he does not think that this circumstance militates; against the production of fine fabrics, since it is known at the present day that the Hindu produces exquisite muslinson his rude loom. Ina specimen of mummy-cloth, examined by Mr. Thomp son of Clitheroe, the texture was close and firm, yet elastic ; the yarn of both warp and weft was remarkably even and well spun; the weft was single, while the warp-yarn consisted of two fine threads doubled; and it was observable, in that as well as in other specimens, that the number of threads to an inch in the warp uniformly exceeded that in the weft, a difference not commonly observable in European fabrics. Mr. Thompson examined ancient Egyptian cloths brought to England by Salt and Belzoni, and found that the selvages were well made, that striped goods similar to modern ginghams were often made by the Egyptians, and that indigo was used as one of the dyes. Wilkinson gives copies from some of the pictures at Thebes, Beni Hassan, and Eileithyaa, representing weavers at their looms ; in one instance the loom appears to be horizontal, while in another it is vertical, with the weft driven upwards ; and from representations of five different sorts of shuttles, it would appear that they were generally about half a yard in length.
Weaving appears to have been carried on as a distinct trade in the larger towns of Greece ; but every considerable private establishment had also a loom at which the females of the family were employed ; the weaving being carried on chiefly by female slaves, while the super intendence rested with the mistress and her daughters. In large houses a particular room was set apart for this occupation.
Plato mentions one of the most important differences between the warp and the weft, namely, that the threads of the former are strong and firm in consequence of being more twisted in spinning; whilst those of the latter are comparatively soft and yielding; a comparison which is strictly applicable at the present day. The Greeks evidently understood much of what is now termed " mounting a loom," that is, arranging strings in such a manner as to separate the warp-thread into two or more groups, between which the weft may be introduced : the leash (sitsos) being one such string, and a woven pattern being termed 51/.41705. (from which the word dimity appears to be derived), Tplavros, or iroAlnwros, according as it contained two, three, or more groups of strings, or, as we should now say, leaves of heddles. After the. weft was thrown, it was driven up close, either by a kind of bat, called a spatha, or by a kind of comb ; both of which appear to bo combined in the batten, or lay, of the modern loom. The checks pro duced by having different coloured warp threads, and stripes, formed of multi-coloured wefts, were known to the Greeks and Romans ; as were likewise numerous kinds of fancy weaving derived from these two combined. Among the Romans, as among the Greeks, weaving was a female employment, and, as with them, it was carried on in most towns and in many large private establishments. Weaving, as practised among the ancients, may be illustrated by the proceedings of the weavers among existent imperfectly civilised nations. The Hindu weaver takes his station under the trees, where he stretches his warp thread between two bamboo rollers, which are fastened to the turf by wooden pins. He digs a hole in the earth large enough to contain his legs when in a sitting posture; and then, suspending to a branch of a tree the cords which are intended to cause the raising and depressing of the warp-threads, he fixes underneath two loops for his toes, by which he produces a substitute for treadles. His shuttle acts also as a batten, or lay, and completes his simple arrangements.