Or press against the lining with the curve of a button hook so as to stretch the leather outward. Work thus over a circular spot outwardly from the point that seems to be tight est. This is often done by salesmen in large shoe stores.
Or, to ease a swollen joint, have shoe repairer cut a slit in the leather an inch or two long close to and parallel with the sole on the inside of the shoe where the swollen joint comes. Stretch the shoe, and over the opening between the leather and the sole fit in a patch of soft leather to match the material of the shoe. Stitch the patch to the sole, but paste its upper edge over the upper leather of the shoe to avoid a ridge of stitches. Such a patch properly cemented is hardly discernible.
To draw on tight shoes, if a shoe horn is not convenient, use two or three thicknesses of newspaper or the inside of a towel. Warm a tight shoe slightly before trying it on.
To Stop Creaking in Boots and Shoes.—The creaking or squeaking of boots and shoes is caused by the rubbing against each other, while walking, of the two or more pieces of leather that make the sole. This is prevented in the finer grades of shoes by careful adjustment of the pieces, smoothing their surfaces, and the use of lubricants, prepared chalk, and the like.
If shoes squeak, saturate the soles with linseed oil, sweet oil, or melted lard. Let the shoes stand in one of these lubricants over night.
Or drive a few small pegs across the middle of the sole.
Or, if necessary, have a shoemaker take off the soles, and dust some powdered soapstone or French chalk between them.
Shoe Strings.—Pound the tin flats on the ends of new shoe strings be fore using them. They will not pull off so readily. If they come off, wax the end of the lace, and with a nee dleful of well-waxed thread begin an inch back from the end, take a back stitch, wind the thread around the lace twice, and stitch through the lace to the end and back. Beeswax stiffens the end, and the stitches keep the winding thread from unwinding. Wax the laces, especially for chil dren, to prevent them from con stantly getting untied.
Or wet the finger and place it on the knot part of the tie just before drawing it up tight.
Or tie a bow like an ordinary bow knot, but whip one loop in under neath the bow and the first knot. Pull it tightly together.
When a shoe string breaks and a new one is not available, sew the ends together instead of tying them in a knot.
For Nails in Shoes.—Cut an insole of thin pasteboard, as the side of a cracker box. The nails will not hurt the feet, and the pasteboard lasts a long time.
To Keep on Pumps. — Fasten a small piece of elastic two inches long across the heel inside. Attach the ends only. When the pump is drawn on, the elastic stretches tight over the ball of the heel and prevents its slip ping off. Fasten other pieces of elas tic on either side of the instep so as to be stretched when the pump is on. This prevents its gaping at the sides.
Or sew a piece of chamois to the lining inside the heel.
To Mend House Shoes.—When the soles of house shoes and slippers be gin to wear, cut a piece of kid from the top of an old shoe and glue it over the worn sole. Go over the bot tom and edges with hard white copal or other varnish applied warm.
Care of Bid Boots.—Kid tends to harden and crack. Hence it should be kept clean and rubbed once a week with castor oil.
Or, to soften kid, melt equal quan tities of tallow and olive oil. First wash the kid with warm water, dry, and apply the mixture with a flannel cloth.
To restore the color to black kid, mix ink with the white of an egg and apply with a soft sponge.
White Kid. — Dip a clean white flannel cloth in a little ammonia and rub lightly over a cake of white soap. Rub the soiled spots gently, changing the cloth as soon as it be came soiled. Or wet a clean white flannel cloth in benzine. Rub lightly, taking care not to rub the dirt in. Hang in the open air to dry. Re member benzine is inflammable.
To Clean White Canvas Shoes.— Place them on boot trees, or stuff the shoes full of newspapers rubbed between the hands until they are quite soft. Next scrub the shoes with good hard white soap and a little warm water. Then mix pipe clay with water to a stiff paste, ap ply with a clean white flannel cloth, and let dry. When dry, rub slightly with clean white flannel.
To Polish Tan Shoes.—Wash the shoes clean with a sponge and warm water. Wipe with a dry cloth and let dry. Then rub freely with the inside of a banana peel. Wipe care fully with a soft cloth and polish with cotton flannel. There is consid erable coloring matter and tannic acid in banana peel, and this polish is fully as satisfactory as any tan dressing on the market.
Orange juice is also excellent for the same purpose.
Or shave a tablespoonful of white soap in a little lukewarm water; add a pinch of powdered borax and two or three drops of ammonia. Apply this with a nailbrush, scrubbing vig orously, rinse with lukewarm water, and let dry.
To darken tan shoes, apply am monia with a clean flannel cloth. Then polish as usual.