Improvise a fish kettle if you haven't one. Line a wire basket with ct napkin, allowing the linen to fall over the edges, put in the fish, coiling it slightly if it is large, and drop the basket in a kettle of boiling water. This is an easier method for lifting it out whole than if set rigbt in the kettle.
An oily fish, such as mackerel or bluefish, needs no enrichment of fat before broiling; a white-fleshed fish does. If it is cut in steaks, dip it in oil or melted butter and a good seasoning of pepper and salt, then put between the wires of the broiler. Lay the thickest end in the center of the broiler over the hottest part of the fire, skin side up. Let it get perfectly crisp and brown on the flesh side before turning. Broil the skin side carefully; it is apt to burn. Set it in a hot oven for five minutes to thoroughly finish cooking.
Fish of all sorts requires the ac companiment of a starch food to make a well-balanced meal; it may be bread, rice, potatoes, or macaroni.
An iron fish sheet, with rings at each end for handles, may be made by any tinsraith for twenty-five cents. Grease it well before setting the fish to cook and lay under it strips of salt pork, then set in a baking pan. You will find it easy to slip a baked fish from this sheet on a platter.
When baking halibut, pour milk over and around it before setting in the oven. It keeps the fish moist, im proves the flavor, and makes it brown more thoroughly.
In spite of careful watching, a fish will occasionally break in the boil ing. Do not try to patch it together into an unsightly heap of skin, bones, and meat. Flake it quickly and lay in good-sized portions on a large platter. Garnish with roses of mashed potatoes squeezed from a pas try bag, and over the fish pour a sauce. This transforms an almost hopeless failure into a most attract ive dish.
The same general rules for vari ous methods of cooking fish apply to all kinds; they may be boiled, fried, sauted, planked, broiled, or baked. Of course, after cooking by any proc ess, a dish may be varied by one of the sauces which are to be found in a following chapter.
For highly flavored fish, such as shad or sahnon, use the simplest sauce; drawn butter or egg sauce is much more appetizing than a rich herb-seasoned, stock sauce, which is apt to destroy the fine flavor of fish.
There are certain fresh-water fish, as well as several white-fleshed varie ties, cod, halibut, and haddock, for instance, that are improved by a cer tain amount of seasoning, only it must be done very carefully and with an educated palate as criterion.
The following methods for cooking fish can be applied to anything that swims, though the table appended will serve as a guide: HOW to Plank Fish.
Heat and oil an oak plank made for the purpose; spread upon this, skin side down, a fish, dressed and cleaned and split down the under side; brush over with butter or oil, and set in the dripping pan in the lower gas oven, at first near the burners; after cooking a few min utes, remove to the floor of the oven to finish cooking. Cook about twen ty-five minutes, basting often. Set the plank upon a platter. Spread over the fish 3 tablespoonfuls butter, creamed and mixed with salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful lemon juice. Gar nish the edge of the plank with mashed potatoes, slices of lemon and parsley.
How to Saute Fish.
Fish may be fried in oil, salt pork fat, lard, or clarified drippings. Whatever fat is used, it should be deep enough to cover the fish and hot enough to brown a piece of bread in thirty seconds. The pork fat is ob tained by trying out thin slices of fat salt pork, being careful not to let it burn. Pork gives the fish a flavor not to be obtained by any other oil or fat When pork fat is used, salt should be added sparingly. Fried fish should be seasoned while cooking. After wiping dry, fish should be rolled in Indian meal, flour, or sifted crumbs before frying. If the fish has been on ice, or is very cold, do not put it in the fat fast enough to cool it perceptibly. Watch carefully while cooking; don't break or mutilate in turning; cook brown, drain on a sieve, colander, or paper, and serve hot on a napkin. Unless fish are very small, they should be notched on each side before rolling in meal previous to frying.