SPECIFICATIONS FOR PAINTING White Lead — Specifications for New Work Outside.—The following specifications were very carefully pre pared by an architect of great experi ence for a leading manufacturer of pure white lead, and may be regarded as absolutely reliable: Before Painting. — All woodwork must be thoroughly dry before any paint is applied. No painting is to be done when rain or snow is falling, or until after the dew or moisture which may be on the surface has completely disappeared.
Knot Killing.—Immediately after the woodwork is in place, all knots and sappy streaks shall be varnished with pure grain alcohol orange shel lac varnish (knot killer).
It is very important that only the best grain alcohol shellac should be used, as preparations of wood alco hol (deadly poisonous), cheap shel lacs, rosin, etc., are dangerous to health and apt to cause the knots to turn yellow after the work is com pleted, thus spoiling the appearance of the work.
Priming Coat. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 6 to 7 gal lons of pure raw linseed oil; 1 gallon of pure turpentine; 1/ pints of pure turpentine japan.
On white pine, poplar, and bass wood (which more readily absorb oil) use 7 gallons of linseed oil.
On yellow pine, spruce, and hem lock use 6 gallons of linseed oil.
In winter and damp weather from pint to pint additional turpen tine japan should be used.
A range of from 6 to 7 gallons of linseed oil has been specified to allow room for the painter's judgment; there may be circumstances where as much as S gallons of linseed oil to 100 pounds of white lead may be used to advantage, but they are rare, and as a rule 7 gallons may be taken as a safe maximum.
The painter may in some special cases find it advisable in the priming coat to increase the quantity of tur pentine from 1 gallon to 1 gallon, but where this is done a correspond ing decrease should be made in the specified amount of linseed oil.
Priming coats should be thin, and well brushed out, but it is a mistake to have them too thin.
Putty.—After the priming coat is thoroughly dry, putty up all nail holes, dents, cracks, and other defects in the surface with a pure linseed oil putty composed of equal parts of white lead and whiting.
Nearly all the putty sold at pres ent is made of other oils than lin seed (chiefly products of petroleum) and ground cliffstone sand. The use of such putty is the explanation of the yellow nail holes and cracks so often marring the appearance of what is otherwise good work.
The addition of 1 part of powdered litharge to 5 parts each of white lead and whiting in the composition of the white lead putty above speci fied is permissible and, where conven ient, advised.
The addition of the litharge assists the drying and hardening of the putty.
Second Coat.—One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 4 to 5 gallons of pure raw linseed oil; 1 gallon of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine japan.
In winter and damp weather from 1 pint to pint additional turpen tine japan should be used.
Third Coat.—One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 4 to 41 gallons of pure raw linseed oil; 1 gallon of pure turpentine; 1 pint of pure turpentine japan.
In winter and damp weather from 1 pint to 1 pint additional turpen tine japan should be used.
Specifications for New Work In Painting.—As above.
Knot Killing.—As above.
Priming Coat. — One hundred pounds of pure white lead; 5 to 6 gal lons of pure raw linseed oil; 2 gallons of pure turpentine; 11 pints of pure white turpentine japan.
On white pine, poplar, and bass wood (which more readily absorb oil) use 6 gallons of linseed oil.
On yellow pine, spruce, and hem lock use 5 gallons of linseed oil.
In winter and damp weather from 1 pint to / pint additional turpen tine japan should be used.
A range of from 5 to 6 gallons of linseed oil has been specified to allow room for the painter's judgment; there may be circumstances where as much as 7 gallons of linseed oil to 100 pounds of white lead may be used to advantage, but they are rare, and as a rule 6 gallons may be taken as a safe maximum.