Perfumes.—Substances used as per fumes commonly occur in several forms, i. e., the attar or essential oil, the essence, and the tincture or the " water," depending upon the degree of dilution. They can also be ob tained in powdered form, as in sachets. The most convenient form in which to purchase perfumes is the otto or attar, i. e., the essential oil. This may be purchased in small quantity and employed according to taste, a few drops being sufficient to perfume most toilet preparations in quantities suitable for domestic use. The scent of these perfumes is fa miliar to most persons, but they can easily be inspected at a drug store and a selection can be made. It is not necessary, of course, to purchase or have on hand each and all the different perfumes recommended. In fact, perfumes are now used very much less than they were formerly, and a strong scent of cologne, musk, or other odor about an individual is regarded as a mark of vulgarity. Many ladies who enjoy perfumes compromise by selecting any particu lar odor they prefer, as violet, rose, lavender, or heliotrope, and employ this exclusively in the toilet. Any of the essential oils may be substi tuted freely for the others, and the quantity may be varied to suit the taste as determined by experiment.
Coloring Matters.— The standard coloring matters employed for lip salve, rouge, cold cream, and the like are as follows: for rose pink or red, alkanet root or dragon's blood; for yellow or orange, palm oil or annotto; for blue, finely powdered indigo; for green, spinach leaves. Other coloring matter, as the various lakes and other mineral substances, are inten tionally omitted.
Utensils Required. — The utensils required in compounding the follow ing recipes are usually at hand in every household. A small pair of druggist's scales or balances is a great convenience, and will be found useful in many ways. A graduate glass, marked for the measurement of fluid ounces, is also useful, and can be obtained of any druggist or dealer in photographic materials. A glass of the size of 4 or S ounces may be obtained at from 25 cents or less to 50 cents.
In addition to the above a small spatula or thin, broad-bladed, flexi ble knife, a small mortar and pestle, and one or two short pieces of glass tube or rod for stirring, will be found convenient. Ordinary porce lain-lined saucepans are the best re ceptacles in which to melt and mix the necessary ingredients. A double boiler is convenient, but if this can not be had, a large saucepan may be partly filled with water, and a small er one containing the ingredients to be melted placed within it so that the water will reach part way up the sides. A few nails or other solid ob jects placed in the bottom of the large saucepan will raise the small one so as to permit the water to cir culate freely beneath it. In this way the ingredients may be melted with out danger of burning or sticking to the pan. Care must be taken that the water in the outer saucepan does not all evaporate or boil up and flood the inner one.
1( Directions for Compounding.
/ First place the solid or liquid con stituents used as a base in a double boiler or saucepan, as above sug gested. Simmer with a gentle heat, but without boiling. When the solids are melted and the mass is warm enough to flow freely, first put in the coloring matter, if any, and simmer until the color has been fully incor porated. Next strain through linen while still hot.
Return the mixture to the double boiler, and while hot add such spe cific remedial agents as the oil of bitter almonds, honey, glycerin, ben-. zoin, lemon juice, alum, etc.
If rose water or distilled water is to be added to form an emulsion, lo tion, or wash, take the mixture off the fire and add the water gradually, stirring briskly with a spoon or egg beater to insure forming a perfect emulsion. The last ingredient to be added is always the perfume, and this should be done after the mixture has cooled somewhat, but before it sets. Perfumes are volatile, and if added to a heated mixture are likely to be wasted by evaporation. — Compounding of Pastes and Pow ders.—The above instructions apply especially to liquid compounds. The solid constituents of pastes may be rubbed together in a mortar, and kneaded with the hands or with a spatula on a marble or metal slab, a clean piece of zinc, or a kneading board. In some cases an egg beater can be employed if the consistency of the mixture will allow it. Almonds for pastes may be reduced in a mor tar to the proper consistency by moistening them with rose water and grinding them with a pestle, or by heating them with water in a sauce pan until the mass assumes a granu lar consistency, somewhat similar to cooked oatmeal. Both methods are employed, but the former is the more common. The materials for toilet powders may be compounded by sim ple mixture in a mortar or other suit able receptacle.
General Suggestions.—We would suggest to the novice that it will be well to first prepare a small quantity of some good toilet powder (prefera bly based on wheat starch), a good cold cream, and, if desired, one of the liquid emulsions or lotions as a • wash for the face and hands.
Other preparations, as pastes, rouge, aromatic vinegar, and the like, may be made up as occasion de mands. Persons experienced in these matters will, of course, need no sug gestions.
Tables.—A number of tables have been prepared which contain practi cally all the standard recipes for the toilet in use by beauty doctors and others in all parts of the world. An exception to this statement has al ready been noted; all recipes contain ing preparations of lead and other injurious mineral drugs have been absolutely excluded. A list of the different ingredients is given at the left of the table, and the name of each preparation is quoted at the top. Under each name and opposite the names of the different ingredients will be found the amount of each to be employed. General directions for compounding the following recipes have already been given. Special di rections follow each table when nec essary.