Germany, in spite of the war which waged furiously throughout the land, and notwithstanding sarcasm and caricature, faithfully imitated the French models. The new mode recommended itself first of all by its cut, which conformed to the natural shape of the body. In addition, it found favor by reason of its pleasing ornamentation, which gratified the taste for minor articles of apparel, such as gayly-colored fans, gloves expanded at the wrist, embroidered handkerchiefs, lace collars and cuffs, rosettes, loops, bows, and ribbons, which, along with the use of jewelry proper, effected a decided change in the appearance of the costume. This change resulted in the style of dress worn by Louis XIV. and his queen (fig-. 4), who were the leaders of fashion during the latter half of the seven teenth century and a part of the eighteenth. It consisted almost entirely of lace, bows, etc., and was as puffy as the Old German and as stiff as the Spanish costume. But before the close of the century this costume, as costly as it was cumbersome, was discarded. It had never been adopted by the citizen class, and it had crossed the Rhine only in a very modified form. It was simplified by abolishing puffs (though in accordance with the spirit of the age it retained its stiffness) and by the substitution of solid decorations, generally gold fringes (67. 37, fig. 5), for its light frippery. This figure shows the coat and vest which have remained ever since in use, though they often changed in shape and color. Their origin is briefly as follows: The heavy German sack-cloak which the respectable burgher always put on, and not merely threw over his shoulders, about the beginning of the sixteenth century had to be made smaller in order to take the place of the small Spanish mantle. In this shape it was worn about the shoulders with the sleeves hanging loosely. But as the cold northern climate required a more closely-fitting garb, the arms were finally put through the sleeve-openings and a pair of sham sleeves attached to the garment. With this provision the garment could be gathered more tightly about the body. The arms themselves were covered by the sleeves of the under jacket, which was generally made of fine material or of silk. The outer garment was gradually made narrower and more closely fitting, and finally the sleeves of the under-jacket were transferred to it, the flaps at the back being discarded. The sleeves were at first wide, slashed in the upper part, and puffed with linen, fastened at the wrists, and having cuffs that turned back. Finally, they were made narrow and entirely closed, and with large cuffs from which laces peeped forth. That was the coat; the lower jacket became the sleeveless vest. Shoes were again worn in place of boots.
The stiffness which characterized the male attire was imparted to that of the women (fig. 6) by a tight corset which extended downward. The straight skirts which were worn about the middle of the seventeenth cen tury had rendered several of the under-garments unnecessary. But for suitable covering two principal garments were used, the upper one being open in front so as to display the lower one. The aperture was gradually widened and the upper garment drawn back and looped behind. Thus originated the trail, from which the train was developed anew. Figures 3, 4, and 6 illustrate this costume. A strong opposition was aroused against it, especially on the part of the older women of the German cities, who were unwilling to follow foreign leadership, and who thought it patriotic to imitate the old and, as they thought, national costumes. The only
result of their opposition was to leave them behind the fashion.
The same was the case with the official uniforms, which originated about a century earlier. In these also only antecedent styles were retained, without any connection with a real historical origin. For example, the senator of Nuremberg (fig. 7) in the year 1700 claimed to he wearing the genuine historical Schaube. As a matter of fact, his garb consisted of the latter article united with the shoulder-ornament of a much later period and with the large cuffs of his own time.
Coats and vests became constantly smaller, as evidenced by Figures 8 to 11 (pl. 37). During the eighteenth century the gold borders were exchanged for gay silk embroideries, which in the beginning of the pres ent century gave place to embroideries of gold, though considerably diminished in size. Of course such costly adornment could be indulged in by the wealthy alone, and finally its use was confined to gala coats and uniforms. The vests, however, retained their embroidery for some length of time. For both of these garments light-colored materials were pre ferred up to the second decade of this century, and even down to the close of the last century costly materials, such as heavy silks, figured velvets, etc., were used. At a still earlier period silk damask was in great favor.
As the coat became narrower it was divided behind. In order to march more freely the soldiers turned back the lower end and buttoned the points together. Later on the points were sewed back and converted into the differently colored " revers" of the coat-tails which the older of our con temporaries may remember to have seen worn by subordinate officials of the civil service. By cutting away these " revers" altogether the dress coat was formed. Before and during the French Revolution this style of coat was the suspected costume of the friends of liberty; but after ward it became the garment of festival and ceremony.
From the end of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth cen tury the stockings were drawn up over the knee-breeches (figs. 5, 8), and later on underneath them (jigs. 9-1 The crinoline was again adopted by the women (fig. 8), and about the year 1780 it reached the inordinate circumference shown in Figure 9. The French Revolution put an end to it, and created a female costume (fig. ID) which was intended to be as shapeless as possible, and which ended in the ridiculous attempt to imi tate the ancient Greek costume in the North (Jig. 12)—a fashion that cost many a woman her life: for considerations of health it had finally to be discarded. Since that time our own generation has seen a similar cycle of changes in fashion; and what we have thus far said, together with our own experience, enables us to appreciate the importance of fashion as an element of social development.
Plate 38 presents a view of the neck-wear and head- and hair-dresses which were in use from 1500 A. D. to 1Soo A. D. We add a few explan atory words. Of course before the first-mentioned date the neck had been protected against the weather by a covering of some sort: capuchins, loose cloths, etc. were used for that purpose. But it was just at that period that a special neck-covering originated, although perhaps the neck was never more exposed than then.