About 1800 the business was introduced into Providence, R. 1., and rapidly extended there. llinsdale and Taylor had made all their articles of solid gold: hut the Providence manufacturers soon began to make what is known as 'filled work,' the face of the jewel being stamped out from at thin ribbon of gold, and the shell filled with a solder of sonic leaser metal, and then iovered on the back with a thin layer of gold of an inferior quality. In 1812 George F. Down ing began to manufacture various articles of jewelry in Newark, and in 1821 he removed to New York, where the manufacture of filigree jewelry had been introduced in 1812 by a French man named l.a Guerre. From this time onward the business rapidly increased, until it met a check in the financial panic of 1837. With the return of national prosperity it revived, and was immensely increased by the discovery of gold in California. It not with another cheek in the dis asters of 1857, and had hardly recovered when the Civil War gave it. another blow. With more prosperous times the industry not only revived, hut immensely expanded. Diamonds. which be fore that time had been rarely worn, were in great den nand, and the setting of them. previously confined to Europe, became a recognized branch of the jewelry manufacture in the United States. Imitation jewelry was also extensively manu factured to meet the wants of the poorer classes. who were by the fashion of the time. The trade in this spurious stufT was immense. yielding substantial profits to those engaged in it. The animal production of jewelry in this country in 1850 was estimated at a little less than $2,000,000. In ISO the number of estab lishments bad inereased to 463, employing a capital of more than $5,000,000, giving employ ment to about 0000 persons. paying wages to the amount of $2.600.000, and producing annually goods valued at about $10,500.000. The produc tion of hair jewelry was a separate branch of business, and the goods annually produeed amounted to somewhat less than $15.000. Lapi
daries' work. which was carried on in 7 estab lishments. was valued at about $37.000 yearly. In 1890 the number of establishments was 783, employing over 15,000 persons, using capital to about $22,240,000. paying wages to the amount of nearly $10,300,000, and produc ing goods valued at over $34,000,000. The great centres of jewelry manufacture are New York, which in 1890 had 163 establishments, and pro duced goods valued at $5,646,734; Providence, with 170 establishments, and products valued at $7,801,003; Philadelphia, :39 establishments, $3,139,596; Boston, $661,300 ; Cincinnati, $1,317, 000; San Francisco. 40 establishments, $1,512, 571; Newark. N. J., 70 establishments. $4, 631,500. According to the census of 1900, there were in the United States in that year 908 es tablishments for the manufacture of jewelry. These reported a combined capital of $28,120,939; they employed 20,676 wage-earners, of whom only 400 were children under 16 years of age. The total annual value of time jewelry produced was $46,501,181.
BIBLIOGRAPHY. Castellani. Jewelry Bibliography. Castellani. Jewelry and Its Revival (Philadelphia. 1876) : Wallis, ".Jewelry," in British Manufacturing Industries, x. (London. 1876) ; Luthmer. Ornamental Jewelry of the Renaissanee in Relation to Costume (London. 1882) : Chaffers, Gilda Aurifaborum: History of English. Goldsmiths (London, 1883) : Fontenay, Les bijoux ancielmet moderns (Paris, 1837) ; Deele. Histoirc de la bijouterie franeaisc (Paris, 1889) ; Davenport, "The History of Per sonal Jewelry from Prehistoric Times," in the Journal of the Society of .4 rts, vol. 1. (London. 1902). Technical handbooks are: Gee, The Goldsmith's Handbook (London. 1881) : id., Hall-Marking of Jewelry (ib.. 1882) Wigley, The Art of the Goldsmith and Jeweller (ib., 1898) Wilson, Silrer-Work and Jewelry (New York, 1903). Consult. also, the authorities re ferred to under COSTUME: GEMS, IMITATION AND ARTIFICIAL.