ANGLICAN AND PROTESTANT The uni versal tendency of the Reformers was naturally to dissociate themselves from the older Church by abandoning to a greater or less extent the ceremonies and vestments used by it. The Lutherans and the Anglicans, however, showed a more conservative spirit than the others. Luther himself considered the matter one of indifference; and his followers for a long time retained most of the old vestments, even the chasuble being worn in Sweden and Denmark, where the Lutheran bishops also wear copes and pectoral crosses. But the Calvinists and other more extreme Reformers of the Continent abol ished the older vestments completely, and adopted the black Genevan gown or robe de Calvin. This, which is nothing more than the ordinary dress of a scholar in the sixteenth cen tury, with the white bands at the neck, has be come a distinctive costume of Protestant minis ters for officiating. In recent years there has been a notable tendency, especially among the Scotch Presbyterians, toward the restoration or of ancient customs, and surplieed choirs have been introduced among other 'ritual istic' usages. The semi-military costume of the Salvation Army officers may be referred to as in some degree illustrating the same tendency.
The question of vestments was a very thorny one throughout the whole reign of Elizabeth, whose impulse in favor of decent and orderly ceremonial, at least, ran counter to the views of the advanced Puritan party, vigorously abetted by the Continental, and especially the Swiss, Reformers. (See ADVERTISEMENTS OF ELIZABETH.) The first Prayer-Book of Edward VI. had prescribed "a white albe plain with a vest ment [chasuble] or cope" for the celebrant, and albs with tunieles for the assistants. The second Prayer Book, which represented the extreme at tainment of innovation, ordered that "the minister shall use neither vestment, nor cope, but be ing archbishop or bishop. he shall have and wear a rochet; and being a priest or deacon, he shall have and gear a surplice only." But this mini mizing injunction was only temporary, and was followed by a cautious return to something like the previous standard. The present law, as con tained in the Prayer Book, unchanged since 1661, is somewhat vague, being merely an authorization of the "ornaments of the Church and of the ministers thereof" as used by the authority of Parliament in the second year of King Edward VI. The Ritualistic School contends that this permits, if it does not enjoin, all the ancient vestments; and in recent times the clergy of that school have restored almost all of them, copying in many cases the, modern Roman usage with great exactness, so that nothing distinctive re mains to he said about them. Throughout the
greater part, however, of the post-Reformation period, the Anglican use was uniform; for all ministrations except preaching. a linen surplice reaching to the feet and open in front. without a cassock, and a wide black stole (or more properly scarf, since it is contended with some show of probability that it was not a stole, but the scarf worn as a distinctive mark by noblemen's chaplains), and for preaching the black gown with bands, until toward the middle of the nineteenth century it was displaced amid a storm of controversy by the surplice for that function also. The use of the surplice by men and boys in the choirs of English cathedral and collegiate churches was continuous throughout the post-Reformation period, and with the ritual revival became general in other churches as well, the cassock being added. In the closing years of the nineteenth century the custom of arraying women singers in these vestments was adopted by a number of churches, but strongly reprobated by many bishops as a gross violation of pro priety.
The history of Anglican episcopal costume has sonic curious features. The first Prayer Book of Edward VI. directed a bishop "to have upon him, besides his rochet, a surplice or alhe, and also a cope or vestment [chasuble] and also his pastoral staff in his hand or else borne or holden by his chaplain." Amid the gradual disuse of the older vestments. the cope continued to be frequently worn, instead of the chasuble, in cathedrals, as expressly enjoined by the twenty fourth canon of 1603. Blunt says "it was so used in Durham Cathedral until the end of the eighteenth century, being first discontinued by Bishop Warburton, through irritable impatience on some collision between his wig and the collar of the cope." The characteristic dress of the modern Anglican bishop consists of rochet and chimere; the latter may be merely a survival of a sleeveless garment so called, worn by per sons of position in the thirteenth to sixteenth centuries. but more probably originated as an episcopal dress from the habit of bishops under Henry VIII. and Edward. of wearing their scar let doctor's gowns with their rochets; in Eliza beth's reign the more sober black way substituted, and the tailors of the Stuart period sewed the sleeves of the rochet, greatly enlarged. to the ehimere. The latter may be pressed into an anal ogy to the mantelletta of Roman Catholic bishops.