MACHINERY. The Goodyear Method of Sewing Among many different methods of sewing and stitching welted shoes, and sewing turned shoes, may be mentioned the Goodyear method. In the welt system, the machines employed are an in-seamer for sewing the welts, an out-sole stitcher for stitching the sole to the welt, a machine for preparing the welt, a machine for beating out the welt, and chaneling-machines.
The curved awl and the curved needle are employed, and the lock-stitch is used. The out-sole stitcher is now a lock-stitch machine, which stitches in any kind of channel, or "aloft " if desired. In either case it shows the " fair-stitch," or the welt and out-sole in perfect imitation of hand-work. The tension of the machine is regular and uniform. The in-seaming machine, instead of the " pull " of the tension being outward from the central line of the inner sole, as was formerly the case, the stitch is now set with an inward pull toward the central line of the inner sole, practically the reverse of 'the old method, and the tension is drawn exactly as in hand-work. In this work, as the awl feeds the shoe, the looper passes the thread in front of a thread-finger, which finger retains it until the looper conveys the thread around the needle. The needle then draws the thread through the sole and welt outward, and, as the machine feeds again, the needle starts forward to make another stitch, and the take-up then begins to draw in the slack thread as the needle completes the stitch. In sewing turned shoes, the new machine draws the thread up and around the needle while the latter is in the stock, thus setting the stitch without stretching the sole. By the same device the pull of the tension is directed inward toward the last, avoiding thereby the strain in the between-substance, which occurs whenever the stitch is set by the needle, as was the case in the old machines. This machine may be used on both welt and turned work by ad justing the The ..11cKay & Copeland and Accessories, for Lasting Boots and Shoes important mechanical principles employed in this lasting-machine (see Fig.
1) are a universal of girth, heel and toe devices for drawing the upper, whether of light or heavy leather, snugly and evenly, and laying the same over and upon the inner sole without regard to rights or lefts, length or width, or as to spring, twist, or roll of the last.
The novel mechanism includes: 1. A girth, apron or straps, yielding from its center and fastened at one end to fingers, which net as wipers, and at the other end to springs, for fold ing the tipper around the last and laying the same over and on to the inner soles. ready to be attached. 2. An oscillating head, carrying toe and heel lasting mechanisms for lasting the toe and heel parts, ready for attaching to inner sole. And in its accessories, viz.: 3. A pink ing device for removing the surplus stock to permit the laying over smoothly. upon inner sole, the leather at toe of boot or shoe, instead of hand-pleating it. 4. A suspended universal power-pegger, for attaching the upper to the inner sole with pegs, when the out-sole is to be pegged au. 5. A hand-tacker, supplied with a tack-strip (which is composed of a foundation strip, in which common shoe-tacks are stuck, and a covering-strip, which is stuck over the same to hold the tacks in place) from which tacks arc driven to attach upper to inner sole, when the out-sole is to be attached otherwise than by pegs—that is, when to be soled, nailed, or screwed. This machine will last French or American calf, wax, kip, split, buff, grain, or glove upper leathers, with either a straight sole-leather or molded stiffener (heel-counter) for either ja,„,,ed. nailed, standard screwed, 'McKay or Goodyear sewed boots or shoes. Sizes : men's, 5 to 13; women's, 3 to 9; boys', 1 to 6; and misses', 12 to 2.
The Chase (Fig. 2) is employed principally on men's medium or fine shoes, and uses the same tacker and tack-strip as the McKay & Copeiand machine. It is a hand-power machine, which adapts itself to any style of last, no change being necessary whether a right or left hand shoe is to be lasted. l'he toe and heel phites are fitted for each style of shoe. The vamp has all the stretch taken out of it when going through the lasting process by n pressure on the foot-lever, which operates four nippers on each side of the last, each nipper working independently of the other, and taking out the stretch under its control. The the of the last is pressed into the vamp, while the toe of the vamp is held between a wiper and it foot that is emundled by a hand-lever, which releases the pressure when the wiper is brought over the toe of the last.