Fences and Fencing

FENCES AND FENCING. The fences of the country are estimated to be worth more, as to cost of making and repairing, than are all the buildings erected. So onerous is the cost of fences that in all districts, where timber is scarce embankments protected by barriers of various kinds have been used., Hedging has been exten sively employed, and would be almost univer sally so were it not for the cost of pruning them, and otherwise keeping them in condition. In deed, in widely extended districts no fences what ever are used, it having been found cheaper to herd stock than to fence them in. When we come to consider the large portion of the year when stock may run on the farm without injury to crops, it is an open question whether this system, or a modification of it, might not be more generally adopted than it is. As to the cost of fences •the Secretary of the Wisconsin Board of Agriculture, gives interesting data in relation to fending in that State, and urges the importance, as an economical measure, of the immediate of live fences. He gives the first cost of the perishable fences of the State at $40,000,000, reckoning the cost at 85 cents per rod. Basing the assertion upon long experience and observation, he says that these fences must be renewed every twelve years, costing in the course of half a century to the people of the State an expense of $160,000,000. He is of the opinion that one-half or three-fourths of this sum can be saved by the immediate planting and rear ing of hedge fences. The yellow-willow, white or soft maple, box-elder or ash-leafed maple, Lombardy poplar, cottonwood, and acacia or honey-locust, are all recommended as suitable for live fences. These, he says, are all hardy, and will thrive vigorously in any part of the State. So far as hedges and the planting is con cerned, we would imprdss upon our readers that they should be placed upon a raised sur face not less than eight feet wide. This may be cheaply thrown up with a two, or better, three hork plow, by repeated plowings, after which the center may he levelled by a revolving har row, or by running ' a horse hoe once or twice along the crown, and then going over the ground with a plank and team. If the hedge is to be set on sod land, two thin furrows are thrown out, the sod removed, and this space is mellowed as deeply as possible. Then, commence turning down a thin strip of sod, following with a trench plow as deeply as possible. Thus you may get a tolerably mellow surface of earth by repeated harrowings. A simple and good' way to set hedge plants is, to stretch a line marked with red, at such intervals as the plants are intended to be placed. Have the plants in a bucket con taining a little water, carried by a boy. A sharp, clean spade thrust in the soil'as deeply as possi ble, and then the handle thrown forward,. makes the place for the plant, Which is thrust therein by the boy; withdraw the spade, and press the earth firmly about the plant with the, foot. If the spade is thrust in such direction as comes natural to the workman, the plants will lean a little—no objection, if they all lean one way and in the direction of the hedge row. A man and boy will thus set 100 rods per day. The culti vation the first year is with the ordinary corn cultivator, Thereafter it is done with the plow by throwing light furrows, always to the hedge. We have advised eight feet as the least possible distance for the width of the plowed surface for hedges. Eighteen to twenty feet will be ulti mately required, and in practice it will be found that crops will not succeed nearer than within ten feet of Osage Orange, or within twenty feet of willow or other live fence. The following' are the reasons for our advice as given for Osage Orange, but which will apply to any hedge. In relation to ridging, the necessity arises from the generally observed fact, that the natural drain age of the larger portion of the vast prairies is poor and ineffective, the soil in many localities being so overcharged with moisture, particularly in rainy seasons, as to materially check the growth of farm crops; and, as is well under stood, the yield of corn and small grain is much reduced from this cause. The same is true of considerable districts of several of the better tim bered States, where other fencing material is grow ing scarce. The height of the ridges should be as great as can be made by twice plowing, or gath ering up the soil. In spongy or low, wet places, three gatherings with the plow will not raise the ridge too 'high. Among, the advantages of ridg ing may be named the following: 1. The hedge will be more likely to escape winter killing, the exemption being due to the fact that the roots are above the level of saturation. 2. Operations can be commenced and completed from ten days to two weeks earlier, in all localities' where the natural drainage is inefficient, and the plants can be set before the buds open. 3. The roots of young plants will strike down obliquely in ridged ground, instead of extending out horizontally just beneath the surface soil, and attain a growth corresponding with the increase of available soil. 4. The plants make a more uniform growth 'when ridged, in consequence of the more uniform condition of the soil as to moisture, and will generally be exempt from the gaps and thin places, resulting from partial winter killing. 5. When a ridge is properly prepared for the hedge, the roots of the hedge row will form a more fibrous growth, which will be made chiefly in central parts of the ridge soil, instead of the roots growing long and straggling. If, in the course of years, however, straggling roots should be found to require pruning at a distance of eight or ten feet from the hedge row, they will present less obstruction on a ridge than when grown upon level ground. 6. When a hedge becomes strong enough to turn stock, it is desirable to check its growth, which can be done by cutting off the ends of the roots on the sides of the ridge with a pruning plow, or with a revolving colter, and this without endangering the life of the hedge, the large amount of root growth in the deeper, central parts of the ridge being sufficient for the plant. 7. A ridge eighteen to twenty four inches above the level will add thirty to forty per cent. to the effective height of the hedge; and, in combination with the latter, will form a barrier that will turn stock, thus consti tuting an effective fence from one to two years sooner than when planted on low, level ground; and, at the same time, equally, contributing toward the effectiveness of the hedge in its inci dental capacity as a wind-break. A plow colter, such as is used for cutting off the extremities of apple tree roots to induce early bearing, may serve a similar purpose in pruning hedge roots when extending beyond their prescribed limits. As in the case of shortening back to induce the growth of fruit spurs in-the apple tree, the effect of trimming 'Osage thorn hedges is to cause some thickening at the bottom, but the growth is chiefly ru we upper part L or we branch or in the emission of numerous small side shoots, or lateral branches. Inexperi enced writers recommend this mode of training to produce thick-bottomed, per manent growth. Thick side growth may, for a limited time, result from such man agement, as repeated cutting back leaves the plants, in their struggle for existence, the only alternative of the slow, feeble, lateral orowth, to be seen in hedges that are not allowed to extend their growth vertically. Low-trained hedges may be necessary where land is limited in area, and high in price, as in the case of gardens, small lawns, and other ornamental grounds; but in such situations plants of less vigorous growth than the osage thorn would seem to be more suitable, for this reason—low evergreens or shrubs may he formed, trimmed, and low-trained a long time without plashing. With the vigorously growing thorns however, the case is different, and laying down and plashing is now generally adopted. It has been established by experience

in Great Britain, and to a limited extent in this country, that hedges sooner or later become so thinned at the bottom that renewed or young bottom growths arc essential to maintain their efficiency as fences; and this necessity can not be evaded in the case of the osage thorn. The sap tends so much towards the top that the lower part will become thin by self-pruning, which will be succeeded by holes and gaps. This result may be expected in both trimmed and untrimmed hedges. These gaps and holes may be tempora rily mended, however, by inserting detached branches cut from thicker parts of the fence. Layering has been suggested, but in the and in dry soil, in which the layer must grow, if at all, their growth will be so slow as not to available against animals in any reason able length of time, and it is probable that but few layers would survive. Osage Orange hedges may grow to a height of twelve to twenty feet be fore they require layering. Layering reduces the .height of the fence two-thirds or three-fourths, or more, causing the new growth to be made near the ground, and here, accordingly, multi tudes of vigorous shoots are sent, up, growing up in like manner, at successive layering. Single-row hedges can not wekl be renewed by layering, without stakes. But double rows may not only be laid or plashed without stakes, but, when laid down in a proper manner, the hedges will constitute a very strong fence. Two-row hedges are believed to be much the best adapted to resist the stress of gales of wind, -the attempts of rampant animals to break over them, and for any contingencies requiring great strength in a fence. In the accompanying illustrations Fig. 1, represents a section of the horizontal form of lay ing the brush of each of the rows backward and obliquely over to the opposite side. The stems are plashed, one from each side or row, alter nately, each branch being brought down from the opposite side, and laid in such a manner that each stem crosses the last one laid, about midway of its length; and in the center between the hedge rows, the angle formed between the saplings and the ground being about thirty degrees. In Fig. 2 is shown the embankment heretofore mentioned, and also a double line hedge five feet high. In ordinary cases the hedge composed of a single line of plants, if well grown, is amply sufficient to turn ordinary stock, even breathy horses and swine but, whether the hedge be single or double the embankment will be found labor well spent, even on dry soils. The tools most used in hedg ing, as shown below, are, the press pole, Fig. 3, used for ,pressing the branches to, the ground in plashing. Weights are sometimes on the plashed hedge to hold it down. Fig. 4, is a bill hook, or plashing knife, which may be used in a object in the landscape, by adopting the sunken fence. This may be described as a ditch-like excavation four or five feet in depth, finished by a perpendicular wall on the lawn side, and the ground flatly sloped on the opposite. The propriety of persistently concealing the fence in such positions may be questioned. Utility is a strong element of the beautiful, and if no visible barrier intervenes between the pleasure ground and a grazing field, we at once condemn the incongruity. We can not distinguish where the flower garden -ends or the grazing meadow begins, and must suppose that the cattle can perambulate the flower garden if they choose; we can imagine the result, and we feel that a variety of ways for rough trimming about the farm. Fig. 5, shows a straight trimming blade, a heavy sharp knife; such as is used for cutting up Indian corn, is in general use. Fig. 6, is a trimming hook. Here again a strong, sharp grass sickle will answer every purpose for the trimming of green or succulent annual branches., The more common plants used for hedging, in the United States are, in the North and West, Osage Orange; the Honey Locust, (Gleditechia triacanthe), and the Buck-thorn, (Mamma catlicertieus), are also planted, the latter to a limited extent. In Great Britain the Hawthorn, (Cratcegus oxyacantha), has been used for cen turies: Of late years English hedges have been in process of extermination, it being found that the land is too valuable to be cumbered with their growth. In the West, the growth of weeds in hedge rows, the cost of keeping them, and the land they occupy has become a serious objection to the planting and renewal, and the cheap, substantial, and amply protecting wire fence is now largely superseding its use. In the South the Cherokee rose is largely employed as an ornamental hedge, and where it will stand, it Takes an admirable barrier. In relation to village, yard, lawn, and other places requiring ornamental hedges, there is nothing finer than a well kept Privet (Ligudrunn oulgcvre) hedge. It is hardy East, as far 'north as New York, and Massachusetts, and in the West to about the northern boundary of Illinois, or say latitude forty-three degrees. Whatever materials may be used for outside fences, they should be strong and substantial. Inside fences for such pur poses as that of separating the lawn from the vegetable garden may be of lighter construction; especially if a fence crosses a lawn, as seen from the house with an open view beyond, it should be as light and elegant as is consistent with stre,ngth and durability. In such cases it is often desired to conceal the fence, as an intrusive fence becomes a necessity to separate objects that can not well be united without injury to one or both. Wire fences are well adapted for this purpose, as they are so light as not materially to interrupt the view; and if properly constructed, are sufficiently strong and-permanent. It has been claimed that the highest degree of rural beauty is a village without fences, or any other distinctive marks to properties. But it has been replied: As well might it be claimed that the best arrangement in a picture gallery will be produced by taking the paintings out of the frames and nailing the canvass to the walls. The love of exclusive possession is a mainstay of society. Well-defined boundary lines to prop erty greatly enhance its enjoyment, especially when applied to lawns and gardens. Hedges are useful as shelter to gardens, rendering them earlier, more productive, and greatly exempt from casualties of climate and locality. In the growth of all kinds of small fruits, as well as those of larger orchard growth, shelter is always of the greatest benefit. In, grounds of very limited dimensions, where the boundary lines are at no great distance from the house, an evergreen hedge set inside the fence will afford great relief to the eye and form a background, as it were, to the shrubbery and flower borders. In relation to farm fences, whatever the material, whether posts and rails, posts and boards, worm or Virginia fence, sod fence, wire fence, etc., they should be made in the most substantial manner. It is poor economy to slight, in any respect, a barrier that is expected to last from ten to fifteen, years, the life of good oak posts, or to scant the material, thus offering a premium to make animals unruly. In forest regions, timber fences are cheapest. Where timber is scarce, wire and posts are cheapest, and the modern barbed wire, of two twisted strands, will be found cheap, effectual, and not seriously to expand or contract in length by heat and cold. As showing something of the growth of barbed wire fencing within the last ten years, the production in the United States was fully six hundred tons in 1880. The objection that it injures stock, is hardly worth considering, and even this may be entirely obviated by placing a pole on top from post to post, which stock can easilysee. (See page 1124.)