Although it has been stated that it is advisable to employ only the sweetest apples obtainable, the cider-maker must he cautioned against excluding those varieties which are rich in tannin, or the astringent pi inciple. He should always have in view the cultivation of a fruit containing the maximum of both sugar and tannin. Apples and pears, which are at the same time very sweet and very bitter, furnish the elements of a beverage which NADI be rich in alcohol, • nd which can be kept for a very long period without degenerating. Sugar yields alcohol in proportion to its own abundance, and the tannin, by partially or entirely removing the alburninous matters, effectually protects the fermented drink from being spoiled by after-fermentation.
Referring to the analysis given above, the average composition of the fruit in all three stages will he found to be represented by the followiog figures :— Water .. . • .. 77.40 Albumen .. 0.22 Sacch urine matter .. 7 95 Malic, pectic, tannic acids, .. 3.83 Gum an d mucilage .. .. 2'70 92'10 By removing the water, and leaving the fruit perfectly dry, the followiog figures arc obtained :— Grapo sugar .. 61.26 Albumen .. 2•92 Vegetable tissue .. 17.53 Malic acid, &c. 2.92 Gum .. 12.33 99.96 From these figures, it will be seen that by subjecting the fruit to a process of desiccation it is possible to give to the product any alcoholic strength desired, and the necessity of improving the must by the addition of sugar or glucose is thereby entirely avoided. If it be admitted, for example, that ripe apples contain 11 per cent. of sugar, this corresponds to 8 per cent. of pure alcohol by volume, and it will be easily possible, by the addition of dried fruit, to increase the strength to 10 per cent., which is about that of the common French wines. It requires 16 per cent. by weight of sugar to give, theoretically, 8 per cent. by weight, or 10 per cent. by volume, of alcohol, and such a quantity of cliied fruit as will bring the product up to, at least, this strength should be added to the must. This would mean, on an average, 5 per cent. of sugar to be added, which would correspond tci about 7 lb. of diied apples. Since the desiccation is never by any means complete, as assumed above, this quantity should be doubled, in order to afford to this must an alcoholic richness of 9 to 10 per cent., which strength would greatly improve and ensure the preservation of the finished product.
In order to bring into practice the plan just described, it is necessary only to keep a large stock of dried fruit of the best varieties, and to add this in proper quantities to the unfermented juice; by this means, cider of the very best description, and capable of being kept for a great number of years, may be easily prepared. The same result might doubtless be obtained by concentrating a quantity of the must to the consistency of a syrup and adding it to the ordinary must ; this method would probably be more easily practicable and more economical than the one just described..
When the juice of the apple has been extracted by the best method possible, and its active fer mentation has been conducted for a sufficient length of time and at a proper temperature, it only remains to remove all foreign matter, whether suspended or settled down ; to clear the cider thoroughly from all soluble albuminous matter, whether coagulable or non-coagulable ; in short, to submit it to a complete defecation, in order to allow of its being kept without fear of spoiling.
This should be effected by drawing it off carefully after the suspended matters have settled down ; clarifying it carefully by the ordinary methodical processes of refining ; guarding it against the adverse influences of air and warmth ; and by exercising as much care over these processes and over the product itself as is customarily bestowed upon wines from the grape.
Careful attenti9n to all the points here enumerated is all that is required to produe,e a really good beverage, and one that will not be inferior to many wines, instead of the crude, harsh-flavoured link that is commonly sold under the name of cider.
Before pointing out the method of putting into practice the improvements suggested in the fore going paragraphs, it is desirable to describe the old-fashioned processes, which are still generally followed.
Common Method of Cider-making.—The apples used in cider-making are just, or nearly, ripe when gathered, a state that may be recognized by their appearance and odour, or by the blackness of their seeds. Those which fall, or are gathered before maturity, are laid aside for a week or ten days, in order that they may become mellow ; any which may have become rotten during this time are carefully picked out and rejected. Iu some places, it is the custom to preserve all the fruit, whether ripe or unripe, for a certain length of time, varying from a week to six weeks, care being taken not to let the apples lie until they become pulpy, as in this condition they are wholly unfit for cider-making. They are next ground in a mill, in order to break up the cellules and set free the saccharine juice. When much fruit is being dealt with, the old-fashioned horse-mill is still in vogue. It consists of a circular stone trough, in whioh a large stone wheel is made to revolve on its edge ; the apples are poured into this trough and crushed by the wheel, which is turned by a horse. or by two horses, much in the same way as the tanners grind their bark. When about half ground, a little fresh water is added to the mash. In such a mill, three or four hogsheads of apples may be ground in the day ; but the cider has usually an unpleasant taste, acquired from the rinds, stems, and seeds of the fruit, which in these mills are much bruised. Another and better mill consists of two cast-iron, fluted cylinders, one of which is turned by a handle and communicates its motion to the other. These are fixed in a wooden case, and the apples are fed in through a hopper placed directly above. The crushed fruit should be passed twice through the mill in order to extract the whole of the juice. This mill will crush fruit enough in one day to make nearly twenty hogsheads of cider.