Buttons Fr

button, shank, metal, plate, head, washer, revolving, punch, shown and machine

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As the revolving plate turns, tho metal faces are brought underneath a revolving brush L, standing above tho plate and turning on a vertical shaft, arranged in u suitable bearing c,onnected with the frame of the machine. The revolving motion of the brush L may be given by cords or belts from wheels 1. The operation of the brush L is to sweep the metal faces into a guide Q on the surface of the revolving plate, which conducts them one by one to the holes in the upper surface of the plate, into which the paper fillings have already been put. By this means, into each of the boles is placed a paper filling, and immediately over it one of the metal faces with its edge turned down, so as to embrace its sides. In case the revolving brush brings the metal faces to the entrance of the guide, which conducts them to the depressions in the revolving plate, more rapidly than the guide deliVers them, the surplus metal faces pass off by the side of the guide and are carried around by the plate to the opposite side of the machine, where they are guided off by the guide It, and may then be placed again in the hopper H. Each depression is next carried by the revolution of the plate under a punch S, which is arranged to descend into each as it comes beneath, and by a touch adjusts the metal face over the paper, so tluat the edges of the metal will enclose the paper filling. Immediately adjoining this punch is another punch T, by the descent of which, as successive slepressions containing the fillings and faces fall beneath it, each metal face is firmly pressed down into the depression over the metal face, and its edges clenched around the paper filling. By the shape of the same puuch, any desired configuration may be given to the button. Immediately adjoining this second punch is arranged u third punch U, having at its extremity one or more pointed instruments (not shown), which punch the necessary holes through each button. The punches should be arranged at the same distance apart as the holes c, and nuay be caused to descend and rise by being attached to frames sliding in ways V, and operated by a knuckle-joint W, moved by connections with the crank shaft X. The button, by the operation of the punch last mentioned, is finished except japanning ; and after being carried a little farther by the revolving plate, is dropped through a hole in the under stationary plate into a recep tacle beneath the machine, or it may be driven down through the hole in the plate B by u pin, operated by a sliding frame, the same as, or similar to, that which operates the punches. A compact arrangement for operating the several parts of the machine is shown in the figures ; the vibrating brush, the reciprocating bar G for expelling the fillings from the bottom of the tube E, the punches and the pin, being all operated by the frame sliding in the ways V. The same cam wheel P also causes the tilting of the hopper H, and moves the reciproc,ating bo,r K. The machine is operated by a crank or by power applied to the crank shaft X, and motion may be given to the revolving plate or table, and to the cam wheel P, and from it to other parts of the machine, through pinion wheels connecting with the main crank shaft X. When it is desired to make buttons with two metal faces, an upper and lower one with a filling of paper or other material between them, the arrangement and combination is modified so as to introduce a second hopper for holding the under metal faces. Both metal faces have turned edges, as before described, and one is made slightly smaller than the other, so as to go within the edges of the other. The fillings are made of a proper size to go within the smallest of the metal faces.

Self-fastening Buttons.—Hitherte have been discussed only those kinds of buttons which, by means of holes pierced through them or by looped shanks attached to them, may be sewn on to garments with ordinary needles and thread. But an infinity of plans have been devised for ma.king

buttons which should be self-fastening, that is, possessing in themselves the means of attachment. One plan in very common use is to have a bent wire in the form of a figure au, but open at one end, which is inserted through the looped shank on the button, after the latter has been thrust through the material of the garment. By another method, two small bell cranks with long and short arm are mounted on the shank of the button, and provided with angles against which a spring presses, keeping the bell crank in position after the style of the spring in the back of a penknife. A direct pull outwards suffices to dislodge the button when necessary. Sometimes links are used with a metal washer. A description of all the improved forms of buttons introduced, even within the last few years, is quite inadmissible, on account of the space it would occupy; but it will be advan tageous to refer to the principal half-dozen varieties, on account of both the ingenuity displayed and the principles involved.

The form of a self-fastening button having a screw passing from the back of the material into the head of the button is shown in Fig. 453.

Hart's self-fastening button consists of a button with a shank formed of strips of metal or wire which will bend without breaking, and provided with a washer (Fig. 454). a shows a transverse section of the button fixed ; b c, the two sides; d, the button with the washer ; e, the washer ; f, the metallic strip forming the shank. The shank should not be so long as to subtend the washer when turned down.

Fig. 455 (a,b, and c) represents a button with a movable head, so that the shank may be placed through the button-holes. The head is hollow, is partly filled with caoutchouc, is perforated on the under side, and has an internal groove or recess crossing the perforation at right angles. The shank terminates at ono end in a disc, and at the other in a short transverse bar, so as to form a cross-head, as shown in a. To uso the button, the cross-head D is passed through the button-hole iu the fabric, and a caoutehoue washer is put on the shank B, to prevent it falling out when discon nected from the button head. Tho shank is then secured to tho head, by passing the cross-head through the aperture E (b) and turning it one quarter round, when it is forced into the groove M, and retained by the pressure of the rubber R ; c shows the complete button attached.

Barnum's button, an Ameriean invention, shown in Fig. 456, eonsists of a long shank A formed into a T at the end; and between the buttomand the cloth is a piece of rubber B through which the shank passes. A washer provided with a slot and a slight depression in it is placed at the back. The T is pushed through the slot and turned so as to fall into the depression, the spring of the rubber then draws the button firmly up to tho washer, and holds all parts beyond the chance of slipping. The cloth is strengthened by the fastening, and the lap of the button-hole about the button is rendered better by reason of the space between the button and the fabric.

In Fig. 457 is seen an automatic fastening by ramps of a shank shaped into head, neck, and shoulder, passing through the fabric and fitting into a eircular metallic socket in the knob of the button, the socket being so devised that on the shank being pressed in up to the shoulder the edge of the sooket is forced to bend in and close round the neok of the shank and so prevent the latter being withdrawn: A shows the shank, with a the head, b the neck, and c the shoulder ; B shows the head of the button, with the metallic socket d in the centre, and the orifice of the socket of equal diameter with the head a of tbe shank. On the shank being inserted in the socket, and pressed in till the shoulder is forced against the thin metallic circumference e of the orifice, the latter bends inwards and closes round the neek of the shank as shown in C.

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