Cotton Manufacture

sizing, size, cloth, time, textiles, mildew, question and requirement

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Sizing.—The beams from the warping-mill are conveyed to the sizing-maohine," in which 3-5 or 6, according to requirement, are combined to form a warp for the loom.

The sizing-frame is the most important machine in the series necessary for manufacturing. Two or throe suffice for a large weaving establishment, and upon their efficiency and skilful superin tendence, to a large extent depends the success of the firm. Perfect and uniform sizing is necessary to produce even results in the cloth. A few years ago, sizing, especially as conducted in the mills, was a rude process. The compounding of the size was left to the skill and discretion of some superannuated man in connection with the establishment, who probably was appointed to this duty through having, in his early days, been a hand-loom weaver, when the sizing of his own warps would fall to his lot. The utensils deemed necessary were a few tubs, a bucket, and a stout stick. The flour was put into the tubs, water was poured upon it from the bucket, and the mixture was thoroughly incorporated by means of the stick. It was flimsily then considered ready for use. Subsequently, it was discovered, from mixtures being left until fermentation had set in, and perhaps subsided, that size subjected to this action, had its particles of flour more minutely subdivided, and in consequence made a smoother cloth than when used fresh. This led to the extensive adoption of the use of fermented size, though new size was never without advocates. At this time, sizing was flat thought of as a means of adulteration, in which capacity it was subsequently for some time used. The system of adulteration arose during the period known as the Cotton Famine, the result of the American Civil War. Eastern com munities being in the habit of purchasing their textiles according to prescribed widths, lengths, and weights, were difficult to wean from this habit ; and the impossibility of obtaining cotton, so as to comply with this requirement, at a reasonable price, or such price as natives of the East could pay, caused manufacturers to resort to the introduction of a substitute, which to a great extent was found in Kaolin or China clay. Cloth sized with a composition, of which this mineral formed a considerable proportion, proved very acceptable in the Eastern markets, and this enabling manu facturers to comply with requirement as to weight, the system was generally adopted. It has been still farther developed, and, by the introduction of various chemical salts, cloth is now made to possess an appearance, and feel to the hand, which prove so, acceptable to consumers that without these properties, especially the latter, it is practically unsaleable. So much is this the case, that

cotton textiles containing no yarns finer than 30's—from which a cheap and substantial olnth can be made—admitted duty free by a recent regulation of the Indian Government, have been generally refused, unless sized to produce this peculiar sensation. What may be the cause of this it is difficult to divine. It may be that as the bulk of the cotton textiles exported to Eastern countries are consumed in clothing which is simply meant to cover, and not to warm the wearer, the presence of these minerals in a fabric may give it an advantage over one of pure fibre, iu rendering it cooler.

The moral question involved has been discussed at times with a great amount of asperity, and still continues to be talked of amongst ignorant people. As a matter of tact, however, all questions of fraud or deception have long since disappeared, the consumer knowing as well as the manufac turer the oharacter of the artiole he is buying, and knowingly giving it the preference. It has been thought fit to introduce these remarks, in explanation of a matter which is greatly misunderstood.

The practice of heavy sizing has, however, not been without important drawbacks. For a long time, oloth so treated proved exceedingly liable to mildew ; and the damage resulting from the development of fungoid growths upon it caused great loseee in numerous cases. Out of these occurrences, several important lawsuits have arisen with a view to testing the liability of the manufacturer. The two most notable instances are those of Mody v. Gregeon, the trial of which took place some 10-12 years ago ; and that of Provand v. Langton and Riley, which terminated in 1879. In both of these, the verdict went against the manufacturer. A different issue was tried in each case, the first being upon the manufacturer's responsibility for the damage, the fact of mildew being indisputable. The decision of this case against the defendant settled the question of liability ; and in the law courts it has since formed a precedent in like cases. In the second instance the dispute hinged upon a question of fact : as to whether certain stains that the plaintiff alleged were mildew, were such or not. In this case also, the verdict was cast against the defendant. The results of these trials have laid the manufacturer under heavy responsibilities, with the nature of which he should make himself acquainted. Reports of the cases, in extenso, have been published, and to these the reader is referred.

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