Dye-Stuffs Fr

water, safflower, flowers, acid, colouring, extract, red, cwt, florets and dry

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Safflower (Fn., Carthame, Safran bdtard ; Gila., Safer, Falsche known as " safflower " is the bloom of a species of thistle, Carthame tinctorius, cultivated in France, Spain, Italy, Egypt, and India. The European method of preparing the dye is as follows :—The florets forming the compound flowers are picked by hand in dry weather as fast as they begin to open, for by waiting for the expansion of the whole flower, the colour commences to fade. The gathered florets are at once carefully dried, either in the shade, or under pressure iu a kiln. The next object is the separation of the true colouring principle, termed carthamie acid, C,,H,„0,„ from a secondary yellowish colouring matter, affording only dull shades of no value, and from impurities. This separation is rendered very easy by the solubility in water of the useless principle. The florets are tied in a sack, and laid in a trough, through which gently flows a constant stream of water ; the sacks are then trodden, to help the expulsion of the yellow matter; this is continued till the effluent water exhibits no yellow tint. If the safflower is not required for immediate use, it is simply removed, dried, and pressed into cakes, when it is commercially known as " stripped safflower." To extract the red colouring matter, a further process is necessary :—the florets are again placed in water, to which is added crystallized carbonate of soda, to the amount of about 15 per cent. of the weight of safflower; the mass is left to macerate for about two hours, and the liquor, bolding carthamate of soda in solution, is run off from the exhausted flowers. This liquor may be used directly as a dye, by adding citric acid, to liberate the earthamic acid ; or the carthamate of soda may be decomposed by tartaric acid, when the carthamie acid is precipitated as a brilliant red amorphous powder. This powder, mixed with a little water, is sold as " safflower extract." Both it and stripped safflower are used, principally in and around Lyons, for giving red, bright orange, cherry, rose, and flesh tints to silks and satins. Safflower extract, dried, and mixed with ground tale, forms the popular cosmetic known as rouge ; the extract is also occasionally used for colouring confectionery, but possesses purgative qualities. Safflower was for a long time the only dye used ou red tape, and large quantities were consumed in Lancashire for the production of peculiar pinks for the Eastern markets. It is, however, declining beforo the coal-tar colours. A special preparation used in dyeing contains the carthamie acid iu a condition that renders it soluble in water.

In India, safflower is extensively grown ; in Bengal, it has received the attention of the local government. It is cultivated chiefly in the district between the Ganges and the Dhulleseray ; 6 seers (say 124 lb.) of seeds are required to sow 1 beegah (3025 sq. yd.) of land, and should yield about 10 seers (say 20i lb.) of flowers. Land subject to periodical inundation is the best ; the crop is exhaustive, and the returns will not be good for more than about 3 years in succession. The land ie ploughed, and the seed is then sown broadcast, or dibbled in with the finger. Weeding must be attended to. Rain, when the plant is 1 ft high, is beneficial ; but after the appearance of the flower, it is injurious, and washes out the colour. The sowing season is October-November ; harvesting takes place in March-April, when the petals assume an orange hue. The petals are plucked as they mature, at intervals of 2-3 days, and the operation has generally to be performed 4-5 times. The first harvest yields many undeveloped flowers, deficient in dyeing qualities ; the last contains also many inferior flowers, as the plant ie then old and withering, and the colours are fading. Skill and attention are required of the gatherers, who must be in sufficient number, as the

least delay after the florets have matured causes the colour to deteriorate, and may eventually destroy it. As fast as the petals are picked, they are placed in mat baskets, in the shade, and trodden for about an hour ; they are then left during the night, without any water having been applied to them. Next morning, they are placed on a mat, arranged to permit the free escape of the water, which is constantly poured ou, while the mass is kneaded. River water is preferable to tank water ; when filtering is impossible, the water must be allowed to stand for at least 24 hours before use, as the presence of muddy matters would spoil the colour. After being worked up in this way for two hours, the mass is replaced in baskets, and moistened with water ; in the after noon, it is again kneaded for about two hours, and abundance of clean water is poured over it. This kneading process should be repeated at morning and evening for 3 days, the mass never being allowed to become dry. To ascertain whether the pulp is fit for use, a sample is put into clean water ; if tho least tint is communicated to the water, kneading and washing must be resumed.

The purified pulp is squeezed between the hands, so as to form little takes, about 1 in. wide, and in. thick in the middle, tapering to the edges. Large cakes are liable to be broken up, and are less in favour with merchants. The cakes are laid on mats to dry in the sun for 3-4 days ; during this time, wet weather is destructive of the colouring matter, and retards the process. The dried cakes should be kept in dry covered receptacles. After the flower crop has been harvested, the plants are left for about 3 weeks, for the seed to ripen ; they are then cut down, or pulled up, and spread to dry in the sun, after which, the seeds are beaten out with flails. The seeds in excess of the requirements for the next season's sowing are pressed, and yield an oil (see Oils), useful for culinary, illuminating, and medicinal purposes ; the leaves and stems are used as fuel, and the ash they afford contains so much potash as to be a good substitute for soap. In Assam, Dacca, and Rajpootana, safflower is cultivated for export ; that from Bombay is least esteemed. The dye is largely used in India, despite its fugitive nature. Its value in Western markets has been much depreciated by adulteration. The production of Indian safflower is now estimated at about 12,000 cwt. annually. In 1868, we imported over 32,000 cwt. from British India ; in 1878, the total imported from Bengal and Burmah was only 3263 cwt., valued at 14,7731. ; in 1879, our im ports were :—from Bengal and Burmah, 926 cwt.; other countries, 222 cwt.

China has always been known as producing very superior safflower. The plant is extensively cultivated for dyeing purposes in the provinces of Sechuan, Yunnan, Honan, Kiang-si, and Chertai. The flowers are plucked, and placed in cloth bags ; here they are strongly pressed, and are then dipped in a succession of baths of water ; the bags are wrung several times, in order to extract all • the yellow principle ; and the flowers, containing only the red colouring matter, are damped with an aqueous solution of the ashes of rice-straw (for the sake of the alkali present), covered with green herbs, left for one day, and then formed into cakes. Safflower is an article of consider able importance in local Chinese trade. The exports of the article, in 1878, were :—from Hankow, 6544 piculs (of 133i lb.), valued at above 121,0001. ; and from Ichang, 405i piculs, valued at 63121.

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