LACE (FE., Dentelle ; Spitze).
Lace-making is the most artistic of the textile industries, and its productions have always been regarded as an especial appanage of the wealthy and luxurious classes of society, Lace is the last outcome of the development of those arts of ornamentation whose chief instrument is the needle : embroidery, tapestry, applique, etc., in which women have been skilled from time immemorial. Though tracing its evolution through the most civilized ancient peoples, the art itself is com paratively modern, the earliest discovered references to lace occurring during the 15th century. It is not improbable that society owes it to the system of monastic seclusion accompanying the Catho licism of the Middle Ages, when the gentler sex devoted much time to the cultivation of needle work and aimilar arts. There is little doubt that knitting also had its origin in the cloisters, and the transition from that art to lace-making would be comparatively short and easy. After its deve lopment, lace-making spread into the outer world, and became the favourite pursuit of ladies in the higher social circles of different nations, superseding the older feminine arts of needlework, embroi dery, and tapestry. Female dependents doubtless also learnt the art, and taught it to the members of their own families, thus laying the foundation of those industries which, favoured by local cir cumstances, have grown into national importance. In the course of time, these different centres have developed special characteristics, by which the productions of one place can be distinguished from those of another.
Lace-making may be divided into two great branches ; manual, or the system of rushing by hand ; and mechanical, or the method of making by machine. The former is the original and
most widely spread system ; the latter is a development of the mechanical skill of the 19th century, and has already attained great perfection. By cheapening the production and reducing the price, it has brought the elegant productions of the art within the reach of nearly all classes ; and while ministering to the refinement of public taste, has given rise to a new industry, employing many thousands of people, whose welfare mullet be an object of indifference.
The manual system of lace-making, which is still extensively followed in Belgium, France, and, to some extent, in this country, will naturally first claim attention, on account of its greater mag nitude, its wider extent, and the much higher estimation in which its products are held, over these produced by mechanical appliances. Hand-made lace is generally known as " real " lace, whilst that produced by machine is regarded as u counterfeit, and called "imitation." In the best qualities of the former, only the finest flaxen thread is used ; whilst in the latter, very fine cotton thread is substituted.
The materials from which lace is fabricated are various, and include flax, silk, cotton, gold, silver, and threads from several other fibres. These are used in various degrees of fineness, accord ing to the character of the work required. Generally, however, the thread is very fine, and of good quality, when compared with that employed for other purposes.