From the hank, it is next transferred to large bobbins in the winding-frame, a simple machine, not essentially different from similar ones described under other headings (see p. 768, Fig. 555). The bobbins are now transferred to the warping-mill or frame, which may be the old vertical reel frame, or the more modern machine which puts the yarn upon a beam for the sizing-frame (see pp. 769-70, Figs. 556-7). In the sizing-frame, which is not materially different from that employed in the cotton trade (see pp. 770-7, Figs. 558-62), from which it has been adapted, the warp passes through a sizing-mixtnre, whose chief ingredient is Irish Moss (see Drugs, p. 814). It is dried by passing over steam-heated cylinders, contained in the same frame, and is delivered upon the loom-beam. Passing from here, it has the heddles attached in the usual manner—drawing-, tying-, or twisting-in, according to the description of the work. The warp is then ready for the next process.
Weft yarns have also to undergo a course of preparation, though shorter than the above. As it is identical with that described in Jute Manufactures (see p. 1185), it need not again be introduced.
The power-loom is now very extensively employed in weaving linen. For a considerable time, many difficulties were experienced iu adapting it to this purpose, but, by perseverance, these were eventually overcome. They chiefly arose from the inelastic character of the yarn, which would not yield or stretch to the requisite distance to allow of the formation of a "shed," or opening of the warp for the passage of the shuttle by the operation of treading, without breaking large quantities of yarn. This was overcome by the invention of the oscillating carrier-beam, over which the warp passes on its way to the heddles. When the shed of the warp is closed, one of the two rollers composing this beam is raised by means of a cam upon the driving-shaft of the loom through a connecting-rod, so as to take up a portion of the warp. When the shed requires to be open, this roller is depressed, thus affording sufficient slack in the warp for a shed to be made by the tappets, without undue strain upon the yarn. This invention overcame the chief difficulty experienced, and has led to the introduction of the power-loom, and its successful operation, in the greatest portion of the trade in this country.
The power-loom employed in weaving light linens is almost identical with that of the cotton trade (see'pp. 780-6, Figs. 566-570). Heavier fabrics require a correspondingly stronger loom, but
this is nearly the only difference. Fabrics which differ from plain cloths necessitate the use of various attachments, such as twilliug-motions, (lobbies, jacquards, &c. The jacquard sustains an important part in the linen trade, being employed extensively for the production of damasks, table oloths, and other ornamental linen fabrics. Of these, perhaps, it may be truly said that, by its aid, Belfast has produced the most perfect specimens of the textile art that have ever been fabricated.
Statistics.—The present condition of the linen manufacture is one of considerable depression, and its future is not regarded without anxiety by those to whom its prosperity is of the deepest interest. Cotton is the most dangerous rival it has to encounter, and the progress of the latter during the present century has to some extent been at the expense of linen. During the American civil war, and the consequent scarcity of cotton, linen fabrics were largely substituted, and the industry prospered greatly. With the return to normal conditions, and the prospect of a very low range of prices in the cotton trade, it is to be feared that the competition in the future will be still more severe, and to the disadvantage of the linen trade. But whatever may be the result of this, the products of the latter industry will always have a place, from the impossibility of a suitable substitute being found.
The following figures from the latest Returns upon the subject, and corresponding figures from the last preceding Returns, will be of interest.
In the above figures, no note is taken of the number of persons employed in cultivating the raw material, and handling it in the earliest stages ; neither is there any cognizance of those engaged in the domestic branch of the industry, the Return covering only the establishments subject to inspection under the Factory Acts. A great portion of the decline exhibited in the five years is attributable to the decay of the English branch of the trade, which has retrograded fully 33 per cent. In Scotland, there is also a slight reduction ; but in Ireland, there is scarcely any change.
Bibliography.—A. J. Warden, 6 The Linen Trade' (1864) ; A. Renouard, Etudes sur le Travail des Line' (Paris); ' Textile Manufacturer' (Manchester : 1874-); Flax Supply Association's Reports (Belfast : annual).
(See Cotton Manufactures ; Fibrous Substances—Linum usitatissimum ; Jute Mauufactures ; _