MADDER COLOURS.—This style has for a long time held the first place, and will probably maintain it, though the effects are no longer obtained with madder-root, but with artificial alizarine and anthrapurpurine. On the Continent, it is generally characterized as " dyeing mordants," or "dyeing upon mordants,"—a preferable name, since the essence of the style is that merely mordants, duly thickened, are printed upon the pieces. The cloth is then worked in a dye-beck, formerly with madder,—as if the object were to produce a uniform colour. As, however, the mordants have been applied to certain parts of the surface only, the colour attaches itself to these alone, producing the design. The colours thus obtained are then cleared or brightened, and the white ground is freed from all traces of colour.
The subjoined are some of the more important of the mordants (here called by the misleading name of colours) printed on for the production of special effects in the madder style :— Purple Fixing Liquor.—(a) Water, 7i gal. ; acetic acid, 1i gal.; sal ammoniac, 9 lb. ; arsenious acid, 9 lb. Boil till all the arsenic is dissolved ; let stand to settle, and decant off the clear for use.
Purple Assistant Liquor.—Potato starch, 100 lb. ; water, 37i gal.; nitric acid at 60° Tw., 123 gal. ; black oxide manganese, 4 oz. When the reaction is over, and the nitric acid is destroyed, add pyroligneous acid, 50 gal.
Purple Fixing Liquor.—(b) Water, 2 gal. ; soda crystals, 25 lb.; white arsenic, 22i lb. Boil till dissolved, and add raw acetic acid, which should first be heated to 49° (120° F.), 50 gal. Let settle for some days ; decant off the clear, and add muriatic acid at 32° Tw., 3 qt.
Black (for machine work).—Black liquor at 24° Tw., 4 gal. ; crude acetic acid, 4 gal. ; water, 4 gal. ; flour, 24 lb. Grind the flour to a smooth paste with a little of the mixed liquid, stir in the rest, boil, and stir in 1 pint of gallipoli. No clots must be allowed to remain.
It must be noted that blacks are loss frequently produced by the madder style than was formerly the case, as the aniline black is more and more taking their place.
Brown Standard.—Water, 50 gal. ; catechu, 200 lb. Boil 6 hours, and add acetic acid, 4 gal. Make up to 50 gal. with water. Let stand for 2 days ; decant the clear, heat to 54° (130° F.), and add sal ammoniac, 96 lb. Dissolve, and let settle for 48 hours. Decant the clear, and thicken with 4 lb. gum senegal per gallon. ' Brown (for machine work).—Brown standard, as above, 8 gal. ; acetate of copper, as below, 1 gal. ; acetic acid, gal. ; gum senegal water (4 lb. a gal.), gal.
To make the acetate of copper, take blue-stone, 4 lb. ; sugar of lead, 4 lb.; hot water, 1 gal. Dissolve ; let settle, and set the clear at 16° Tw. with water.
Madder Brown to resist heavy covers of Purple.—Catechu, lb.; sal ammoniac, 4 lb.; lime juice at 8° Tw., 1 qt. ; nitrate of copper at 80° Tw., 2i oz. ; acetate of copper, 1i oz. ; gum senegal, 1 lb.
Chocolate.—Iron liquor at 24° Tw., 3 gal.; red liquor at 18° Tw., 6 gal.; flour, 14 lb. ; logwood liquor, 1 pint.
Drab.—Brown standard, 4 gal. ; proto-muriato of iron (ferrous chloride) at 9° Tw., 1 gal. ; acetate of copper, 3 gal.; gum substitute water, containing 4 lb., 1 gal.
Purple.—Add to the iron liquor, in proportions varying according to the shade, light British gum, 40 lb.; water, 16 gal. ; purple fixing-liquor, 2 gal. Boil well together ; draw off, and allow the whole to stand for 3-4 days. Of this, 8-30 gal. may be added to 1 gal. black liquor.
Padding Purple.—Mako up a thickener as follows :—Water, 13+ gal. ; purple fixing liquor, 2 gal. ; logwood liquor, at 8° Tw., 2 qt. ; flour, 18 lb. Boil, and add 2+ gal. of farina gum water, made by boiling 6 lb. dark calcined farina in 1 gal. water.
Dark Red (for machine work).—Red liquor at 18° Tw., 6 gal. ; flour, 12 lb.
Standard Red Liquor.—Alum. 20 lb.; sugar of lead 12+ lb. ; boiling water, 5 gal. Stir till dissolved ; let settle, and draw off the clear.