PROCESSES or WOOLLEN MANEEAcTuRE. —Wool, in its transformation into woven fabrics, passes through the following processes, which, to save frequent repetition subsequently, are hero briefly defined, (1) "Stapling " or " sorting," which ie the division of the fleece into its several qualities.
(2) "Opening" or " cleansing ": freeing the wool from dust, sand, dirt, burrs, and foreign substances, and disentangling matted fibres.
(3) " Washing " and " scouring": two processes analogous in method aud purpose. The former has for its object the removal from the wool of the dust and dirt adhering to the fibres after the latter operation ; also the removal of that portion of the natural grease which, with the preceding matter, is soluble in water. Scouring is a sue,ceeding process, in which the wool is passed through a solution of soap or alkalies and warm water, to remove the portion of the yolk uncleared by the foregoing process. The first is often omitted, and the second is followed by rinkring, the purpose of which is to elear the scouring solution from the wool.
(4) " Drying " : to clear the wool from the water acquired in the preceding process.
(5) " Blending" : the mixing of the different classes of wools and other fibres from which it is proposed to manufacture fabrics.
(6) "Oiling " : lubrication of the wool flbres in order to render them workable.
(7) " Carding " : the different stages of this process, scribbling, carding, and condensing, have one purpose, whether conducted with few or more machines, namely, to separate, straighten, cleanse, and mix the materials of the blend, in order to render the resulting yarn thoroughly homogeneous.
(8) " Spinning " : woollen spinning performed on the mule.
These complete the processes up to the production of yarn, and now call for notice in detail.
Stapling or Sorting.—Formerly stapling waz a separate business, and the person following it was termed a " wool-stapler." This state yet prevails to some extent, but has not grown in a manner corresponding to the development of the woollen trade. In earlier days, the manufacturer resorted to the stapler for the supply of his raw materials. The stapler was a wool merchant, who pur
chased the wools from the growers, or from importing merchants, and sorted his purchases into various qualities, to suit the requirements of his customers, who thus by his aid were enabled to obtain exactly the quality of wool needed for their productions, without encumbering themselves with a large quantity of wool they could not use, as they must have done when they purchased the fleece from the growers. Thus the wool-stapler's function was a very useful one, and he himself was a highly-respected personage in the fraternity of the industry. But times have changed, and though not entirely superseded, his relative importance is greatly diminished. The increase of wealth, and the growing magnitude of manufacturing establishments have changed to a great extent the old method of business. The woollen or worsted manufacturer can now purchase his wool direct from either grower or importer, his consuming capacity and the variety of his produc tions enabling him to utilize all the qualities of wool obtained from the fleece.
The wool arrives at the stapler's warehouse or the mill in large bales, each containing about 400 lb. or 80-100 fleeces of wool. Having been weighed and compared with the invoices, the wool is ready for the sorter. Sorting is performed on an oblong bench, the framework of which is of wood, and the top of wirework grating, in order to permit the dust contained in the fleece to fall through. Most fleeces, however, hold a great quantity of dust, mostly composed of the dry epidermis of the sheep, which is so light as to rise and fill the atmosphere of the sorting-room, to the great detriment of the health of the workmen. In order to remedy this, the sorter's bench is now usually enclosed, and fitted with an exhaust fan, so as to prevent not only this light dust, but also much of the poisonous exhalations too often given off by the fleeces of foreign wools especially, from being breathed by the worker.