SIKALLWARES (Fn., Tissures; GER., Spiel-, or Iciirnberger uw«ren).
Mechanical inventions during the past century have revolutionized tho aspect or society in nearly every one of its phases. Amongst tbe most important class of changes that has resulted, is the subdivision and rearrangement of labour for the production of articles of merehandize. The facilities which the manufacturer has acquired for infinitely varying his productions and increasing the quantity, has done much to necessitate a reorganization of the means of distribution. The consequence is that twins formerly distinctive of certain occupations are falling into disuse, or changing their signification. 111ustiations of this fact may be found in connection with the trades dealing in materials for apparel. A "draper " formerly meact specifically a dealer in woollen cloth ; subsequently it became generic, and an adjective was required, such as linen or woollen, to clearly define its meaning. More recently it has quite lost its original signification, the person whom it formerly indicated having become a " clothier." " Haberdashery " was the term in use some time back for the braneh of trade dealing more particularly with fabrics destined for feminine wear, Lind the numerous small etceteras pertaining thereto. This term has been almost abandoned in favour of "draper," the one cast aside by the modern " clothier." In place of the haberdasher, there has sprung up another distinctive business character, the " smallware dealer," who has taken a portion of the haberdasher's specialities, aud combined therewith many other articles having it general likeness, or similar origin. Out of this amalgamation of old and new, the modern small 5 I ware business has sprung. Under the term "smallwares " are eomprehended a great variety of articles, comparatively insignificant in themselves, but important as accessories necessary to complete and perfect the use of other things.
Only a rough classification of smallwares can be attempted, as whatever principles be adopted, those of one division will frequently be found in another with only slight specific variations. Smallwares, as ordinarily understood, are mainly allied to textiles, in the materials of which they are composed, the manner of their fabrication, and their ultimate uses. They may be divided into three great classes : (1) for purposes of attire, (2) for upholstery uses, and (3) in which may be grouped the numerous articles ordinarily denominated fancy goods.
The first named division is probably the most extensive. In this, " brsids" form a considerable class of themselves, as they are produced in all materials, gold, silver, silk, wool, worsted, alpaca, mohair, and cotton. Most of these are made in various widths (f-2 in.), and in numerous shades of
every colour, according to the requirements of popular taste. Manchester, Derby, Leicester, and Nottingham are the chief centres of manufacture in England, whilst great quantities are produced also in France and Germany. The texture of plain braids is usually alike on both sides. The best qualities are generally made up in I-gross cards or k-nots, four of which Etre put in a box ; the commoner are made up in f-gross pieces, four pieces in a package. These lengths ought to be full, but too often they range from A to -& short of the nominal length. The blame for this is frequently, and nearly always unjustly, placed upon the manufacturer, who, however, could rarely, without incurring detection, deliver short-length goods to his contracts. The custom is to quote for proper or full lengths, when the buyer gives instructions for thern to be made Tt,, or A less, a corre sponding deduction being made from the full-length quotation prices. This is one of the vicious results of excessive and unscrupulous competition, and is a custom Etgainst which the retailer should be carefully on his guard, as it is on him that the loss falls when undetected. " Bindings " are a kindred article to braids, but usually of a rather different texture ; the two sides are not alike, the front having a diagonal or " herring-bone " twill, whilst the back is plain. "Ferreting " is an old name for a silk flannel-binding of the latter texture. These are not in such extensive use at present as formerly. " Cords" are composed of the same materials as braids, and, as their name indicates, are round instead of flat. They are generally black, though sometimes made in colonrs ; aud may be had. either with or without cores. They are made up in a similar manner to braids, in gross packages. In connection with these may be mentioned elastic cords and braids, which, instead of having an inelastic fibrous core, have substituted therefor fine strips of indiarubber, around which the cover ing is plaited as in those containing a core. These strips vary in number and thickness as may be required, from a single one in cords to whatever number may be demanded by the width of braids. They are mostly black, but small quantities are also produced in colours. They are generally carded in le,ngths varying from to a full gross, or even more, according to width and thickness. Leicester, Derby, and Manchester are the places of manufacture. The remarks con cerning lengths made in connection with braids apply also in this case. Sometimes, for trimming purposes, braids are made in variegated colours, and in wave and vandyked or other fancy forms ; but these changes are not frequent, and do not prevail long at a time.