The different lengths of ailk " top " produced from the raw material by the comb are further drawn and combed to form a " sliver," a number of these being combined and drawn into one, to eliminate irregularities and secure perfect uniformity. Thia process is repeated several timea aecording to requirement, and the quality of yarn it may be desired to obtain. The sliver is next passed through a roving-frame, in which it is attenuated to the required degree, and wound upon a bobbin for the supply of the next machine, tbe spinning-frame, constructed on the principle of the cotton throstle-machine. The short-spun or carded silk is spun upon the mule (see Cotton Manufactures, pp. 753-60).
Yarna spun from silk-waste are not so perfect as those obtained from other fibres. The combing and carding processea are insufficient to thoroughly cleanse the irnaterial from impurities, lumps and rough bits remaining on the thread to a large extent. A simple and ingenious process has been invented, called " improving," by which the thread is very much cleared and improved in appoitranco. When the bobbins have left the spinning-machine, they are taken to another machine, and the thread is run from one bobbin to another, passing around several revolving spindles fixed on the eleaning-bar, and arranged so that the travelling thread rubs against itself, the friction clearing away the lumps and rouglinesses not imbedded in the thread. The yarn is remarkably improved by this operation. When it is required of particular count, and has to be submitted to this process, it must be spun considerably heavier, as the weight is much diminished by the friction and lose resulting.
Still another process remains. Spun silk can never be made to equal thrown silk in its lustre, but it is greatly improved by the " gasing," in which operation the thread is run rapidly through a. jet of gas, which burns off the extremities of the fibres that project from the surface of the thread. When these are cleared away, the light has direct access to, and is reflected from, the aurfaces of the long fibres laid parallel in the thread, by which its lustre is greatly incieased.
For purposes in which the atrength of silk only is required, both the above proeesse,s are omitted, as, owing to the reduction of the weight consequent thereon, and the cost of labour, the price is enhanced fully 2s. a lb. Where, however, a lustre approximating to that of net silk is required, the yarn is always submitted to both of them.
Spun Bilk is more lustrous than perhaps any vegetable or animal fibre with which it comes into competition, with the exception of thrown silk, and being capable of yielding uniformly level and round yarns, which cannot be obtained from thrown silk, it poaseases advantagea for some purposes even over the latter. Owing to this quality, a good aightly fabric can be produced in the power
loom, free from the " stripey " oharacter often seen in thrown-silk goods, even when made in the hand-loom, and which defect originates in the irregular thicknesa of thrown-ailk threads. Combed spun, or patent silk, has come into general use for sewing-machine purposes, having of late years quite superseded thrown silk in that sphere. It has also been adapted for use in the manu facture of many other - artioles, amongst which may be mentioned cords, braids, fringes, tassels, heavy laces, and numerous smallwares ; fabrics such as " cut-ups " for tie and scarf purposes, dress goods, handkerchiefs, mufflers, Sce., and in these and other capacities fills a very useful place amongst textile fabrics.
Weating.—The weaving branch of the silk manufacture as an art has been carried to the highest degree of perfection yet attained in any of the textile industries. The fineness, strength, lustre, and affinity for dyes, of the raw material, are qualities that cause it to lend itself with great facility to the purposes of the designer, and the requirements of the weaver. The rich lustre of a black cachemire, contrasts finely with the dense black of a velvet fabric, and the latter again with the sheen of a satin. Figured damasks, produced by the jacquard attachment, show another phase of the excellent results attained in the manipulation of this premier textile fibre, whilst the brilliant hues that can be obtained when the resources of tinctorial art are called in te aid, demonstrate that practically when wealth is at command there is no limit to its use for decorative purposes. To show what can be produced, portraits, pictures, landscapes, and artistic effects have been wrought of such perfection and beauty as to vie with the products of the pencil or the graver. These highest results are mainly the outcome of the handicraft form of the industry, as, owing to facts previously explained, the material does not surrender itself easily to the require ments of automatic mechanism. With the development of invention and increasing skill, some of the difficulties yet encountered will no doubt in the early future be obviated ; but even without improvement in that respect, accomplished results are so excellent that only the relatively high price of silk articles precludes a great extension of consumption. Growing wealth on the one hand, and extended sericiculture on the other, will do much to remove this obstacle. By many persons highly qualified to form correct opinions on the matter, this view of the future is regarded as very likely to be realized.