Cultivation.—The climatic conditions of some countries necessitate certain modifications in the method of cultivation, which will be categorically alluded to presently ; the main paints, however, in the culture of cocoa remain the same, and may be described once for all.
Planting.—The first care is to form a nursery for the young plants. This should be a choice patch of moist land, well cleared of weeds. The cocoa-seeds axe. carefully extracted from fine fully ripe pods, and are sown 1 ft. apart, in furrows 2 in. deep, and are lightly covered with earth. Plantain-leaves are then spread over the ground, and left for about a fortnight, by which time the cocoa-plants should make their appearance. The ground is thoroughly weeded till the plants attain a height of 12-18 in , when they are taken up very carefully, and transplanted to the cocoa estate. The soil chosen for this purpose must be rich and flat, and convenient for irrigation. The trees thrive best on gentle slopes, facing away from prevailing cold winds. When the land has been cleared and burned, it is planted at intervals of 25-40 ft. with seeds or suckers of varieties of the coral-bean tree (Erythrina Corallodendron), called " shade," or " madre di cacao"; these grow to a great height, and afford the permanent shade required by the cocoa. This clone, the young cocoa-trees are planted in regular lines, at about 12-30 ft. apart, the distance depeading upon soil, climate, and the character of the species under cultivation. As the coral-bean trees do not imme diately afford the necessary shade, coffee, plantains, and manioc are planted among the cocoa-trees for this purpose, until the coral-bean trees are sufficiently advanced, when the plantains and manioc are dispensed with, and the coffee only is left. In the second year, the cocoa-trees begin to put forth flowers, which are removed; at the third year, they require air, and no other crop must remain with them.
Pruning and Weeding.—One of the most important details of the cultivation is the proper pruning of the trees, so as to induce a trichotomous growth—a straight, single stem, crowned by a well-formed head. The estate needs weeding at least twice a year, the weeds being chopped off with a cutlass, as hoeing is not required.
Diseases and Enemies.—The tree is sometimes attacked by a disease called mancha, which first destroys the roots, and quickly causes death ; it spreads so rapidly on an estate that thousands of trees are thus destroyed in a single night. The plant is also subject to several insect pests: ants prey upon the young leaves, boring grubs injure the bark, and the larvce of moths devour the matured beans. Wind is a great foe: whole plantations have been destroyed by one storrn.
Harvesting.—The cocoa harvest takes place principally in June and December, the crops being known respectively as " St. John's," and " Christmas." In the tropics, however, the fruit continues to ripen throughout the year, on which aecouut the trees are visited every fortnight, to gather any matured pods, and to prune where necessary. The pods are carefully selected, and are detached by a knife mounted on a pole ; the stem must be cut clean through, without injuring the branch whence it springs. Women and children gather them into heaps, and convey them away for preparation.
Production.—Unless under exceptional circumstances, there should not be more than 900 trees to an acre. The average annual produce is estimated at 4-6 lb. from each mature plant ; instances are recorded of an average of 11 lb. a tree in one season, and 15 to 18 and even 20 lb. from individual trees. The fruit is allowed to ripen at the 4th or 5th year ; but the crop is not plentiful until the 7th–lOth year, after which the trees continue prolific for 15-40 years. The cultivation is considered profitable for large capitalists, or gardeners, as the plant requires less outlay and trouble, and yields a larger return, than perhaps any other tropical crop ; nevertheless, the riske from storms and the attacks of insects render it very uncertain.
Preparation.—The gathered pods, resembling gherkins in size and shape, and varying in colour from purple to lemon, are submitted to a process of " curing," which requires much experience and delicate skill, as upon it depends the preservation of the cocoa, and the development of its flavour. The essential objects of the curing are (1) feimentation, to reduce the glutinous, saccharine pulp surrounding the seeds, thereby giving tone to their colour, and modifying their flavour ; and (2) drying the fermented " beans," to ensure their keeping. The process admits of several modifica tions, dependent upon the market for which the product is destined. The seeds are first carefully extracted from the pods, and placed to ferment. If for Europe, they are fermented in barrels, troughs, or heaps, covered by plantain leaves or by sacks, within the " sweat-house," a dosed chamber, exposed to the sun, and raised on walls about 6 ft. above the ground. The sweating is best performed in deal boxes, 3 ft. long, 2 ft. wide, and 3 ft. deep, provided with covers, and holding about 500 lb. raw beans ; the sides are perforated near the bottom, to admit of the cocoa draining. Here the seeds remain for 3-10 days, at a temperature of about 60° (140° F.), losing much water, and their bitter and astringent principle, becoming lighter, acquiring a mild, agree able flavour and a fine cinnamon hue, and admitting of their easy separation from the husk by a slight pressure. The liquor which drains out in the process is often thrown away, but may be utilized for the making of vinegar and spirits. They are then transferred to the " drying bouse,'' a wooden abed, provided with a movable roof, and thoroughly ventilated. Here they are spread evenly on mats, or on tb platform, after baying been rubbed with a little red earth. Excessive heat ia avoided, and the beans are constantly stirred about, ow attendant sufficing for a /aouse 50-60 ft. long by 18 ft. wide. The beans remain here until perfectly dry, and should show no trace of mildew. They are then placed in bags. Efforts should be made towards effecting the drying .under a glazed roof, with abundant ventilation, thus saving labour, preventing pilferage, and improving the colour of the product.
Another mode of fermenting the beans iS known as " claying.'' They are placed in holes or trenches in the ground, covered with clay or sand, and stirred at intervals, while great care is taken to prevent the fermentation proceeding too rapidly. When it has reached its proper point, the beans are dried as described.
The fermentation process is apparently indispensable to the production of fine cocoa ; but it is attended with some risk in wet weather, when the beans are liable to blister. According to some authorities, the c/aief object in claying the beans is to preserve them ; but it seems to originate in the demands of fashion rather than in any real utility. The essential characteristics of good cocoa beans are—clear, reddish-brown colour internally ; dry crispness, allowing the easy separation of the " nibs," or plates, from the kernel ; the nibs of a dull-purplish hue externally, with a glaucous purple-brown fracture, dissolving readily when chewed, and manifesting a slightly warm, astringent, full chocolate flavour.
Cost of Production.—The amount of labour required for the cultivation and preparation of any specific quantity of cocoa may be estimated from the basis that, on the average, 15-20 labourers suffice for each 30,000-40,000 trees, entailing an annual expenditure of about 200/.-240/.