Similar symptoms as those produced by tight lacing may occur also if the bands of the skirt are drawn too tight (see Fig. ro8). In general, women carry the weight of their dresses on the wrong parts of the body. The principal weight of the dress should be borne by the shoulders, not by the hips. In most women the covering of the lower half of the body is much too heavy, owing to the customary numerous petticoats.
But how is the corset to be replaced ? A substitute for the corset must not in any way press upon any organ of the body. On the other hand, it must give sufficient support to the breasts, and be suitable to hold the other undergarments. For these reasons, shoulder-bands are indispensable. The number of advertised corset substitutes is a very large one, and we cannot here enter upon details.
The reform of female undergarments is a question which is closely con nected with this corset reform. It has been said that the weight of the former is usually 'excessive, and that their fastening by binding is not prac tical. They should, rather, be fastened by buttoning them to the bust holder But, to do this, the undergarments require to be simplified. In place of the petticoats closed bloomers have been recommended, if neces sary with drawers that can be buttoned into the same ; and in place of undershirt and drawers, the so-called combination-suits (see Fig. 109).
All these innovations would diminish the weight of the dress without impairing its warming effect. Closed drawers possess obvious advantages over the undergarments formerly in use, especially with reference to keeping warm. Stockings should not be fastened by round garters over the calves, but should be attached by aid of hose supporters to the corset substitute ; otherwise, in consequence of constriction of the blood-vessels, the garters are apt to cause congestion of blood in the legs (varicose veins).
In a rational dress for women, at least the street dress should not reach down further than to the shoe tops. Apart from the comfort of the wearer, sanitary view-points are determining in this respect. Trailing skirts whirl up the dust, which is generally looked upon as something injurious to health, as it is conducive to a dissemination of disease-germs (especially tubercu losis) which may enter the respiratory organs. A lively
agitation against allowing the wearing of trailing skirts in the streets has therefore become manifest in many places ; and it has been sug gested to abolish the nuisance by local bye-laws.
Conceive the amount of filth brought into the house by the edge of the skirt of a fashionable lady ! Ought not the sense of cleanliness alone —quite apart from all hygienic considerations—to object to this nuisance ? These are the principal points in which women sin with regard to their dress. Two others, less important ones, may be briefly mentioned. While nowhere else the outer garments (which as a rule are not washable) are worn near the bare skin, the blouse is worn day after day over the bare arms and neck, and the upper part of the breast. The necessary consequence is that it gradually becomes greatly soiled in these places. Further, the wearing of a veil is a superfluous fashion which is harmful to the complexion. That the skin of the face becomes rough and abnormally red (especially the point of the nose) is, not wrongly, ascribed to this fashion. Neither is the veil without harm to the eyes. See EYE, CARE OF.
To 'combat fashion with logic is generally a vain undertaking. It would, besides, be quite unjustifiable to ask women to surrender many of their little decorative means simply because they are not quite appro priate. But the gross transgressions of fashion against health should be combated by every one. That this struggle need not always be carried on at the expense of what is beautiful and pleasant—assuming earnest intentions and endeavours—is probably certain ; and, finally, the conception of what is beautiful and pleasant in the dress of woman is exceedingly changeable. It is certain that many fashions which at first impressed us as the strangest, appeared not only bearable, but often even becoming, after a short time of habituation.