AFGHANISTAN, a country of Asia. Estimated area is 245,000-27o,000sq.m. (including Badakshan and Kafiristan). Pop. about 12,000,000. It is bounded on the north by Russian Turkistan, on the west by Persia, and on the east and south by Kashmir and the north-west frontier of India and Baluchistan. Surveys from 1872 to 1905 delimited the frontier which was accepted by Afghanistan in a treaty of 1921.
The complexity of the Kabul river feeders is an important factor of the existence of the historic city of Kabul. From the city one may follow lines between the ridges southwards to Ghazni and to Kandahar, or the line of the Hari-Rud westwards to Herat, or one may go north over either the Hindu Kush (via the Unai pass) or Koh-i-Baba (via the pass of Irak) and so down the tremendous defiles of the Balkh river or one may skirt round the north-east of the Koh-i-Baba at a lower level via Charikar and the Shibar pass. By taking the last route one avoids getting more than I o,000 ft. above sea-level and this route is not often snowbound for long. It is the historic way. In the 19th century somewhat more direct ways from the Oxus to Kabul have been developed farther east. From Kabul into India one route much used in historic times left the Kabul river above Jalalabad and went north-east across the Kunar, thence into Bajaur and so via Malakand or some route near it into the Indian plains. The famous Khyber pass is entered beyond the fort of Jamrud, I irn. W. of Peshawar: it follows the Khyber stream up to Landi Kotal, debouching on to the Kabul river at Dakka whence the route goes along to Jala labad, beyond which are alternative ways to Kabul. The Khyber pass is the part of the route between the entry to the mountains west of Jamrud and the emergence above at Landi Kotal and it lies within the North-West Frontier Province of India.
The Bara route farther south leads up into the heart of the Tirah country. The Kurram river route with the Peiwar (8,600ft.) and Shutargardan (io,800ft.) passes across the southern extensions of the Safed Koh (note the resemblance to the name of the range in western Afghanistan) is the next route southwards. The Tochi river route leads to Ghazni whence, in the days of its power, many raids were made upon the Indian plains. The Gomal river route has considerable commercial importance as it involves no very difficult pass though it is forced to leave the river because of very narrow precipitous defiles. From Kandahar a route skirts the ends of the hill lines to the frontier at Chaman whence it goes through the Kojak pass down to Kila Abdullah; it has considerable trade.
In spite of much work spread over many years some of the physical features of Afghanistan are still undetermined, the rugged nature of the country being a severe handicap to research.
Climate.—In the north the climate is extreme. In winter, waves of intense cold occur with temperatures ranging from —12° F. to 15° F., while in summer the shade temperature in the Oxus region may reach II o° or 120°F. For seven months of the year (May–November) the temperature-range exceeds 3o°F. daily, this range being greater than that of the days in the cold season. In Kabul snow lies for two or three months and people stay indoors near the stoves. At Ghazni also snow lasts long and tradition tells of disastrous snowstorms. Everywhere, however, summer heat is great, but this is especially the case all around Kandahar; this country in summer suffers from dust storms and snow rarely lies on the plains in winter. Herat has a strong north west wind and relatively mild temperature throughout the sum mer and in winter the snow rarely lies long; but above Herat fierce winter cold prevails and the upper part of the Hari Rud river freezes, rapids and all.
The south-west monsoon brings rain only to the valleys that lead down from Afghanistan to the Indus plains, the Kabul valley as far as Laghman, the eastern ends of the Safed Koh, of the east and the Kurram valley. It therefore does not bring rain to Afghan istan which gets much of its precipitation as winter snow and a small but very important contribution of rain in spring. Snow and spring rain come largely from the north-west and in winter the snow-winds are intensely cold. The atmosphere is dry and the brilliant sunshine of a large part of the year, with very bright clear nights also, is a feature.
Vegetation.—On the main ranges at 6,000 to I o,000 ft. grow large forest trees, among which conifers are most prominent, such as Cedrus deodara, A bies excelsa, Pinus longifolia, P. pinaster, P. pinea (the edible pine) and the larch. Yew, hazel, juniper, wal nut, wild peach and almond are also found. Growing under the shade of these are several varieties of rose, honeysuckle, currant, gooseberry, hawthorn, rhododendron and luxuriant herbage, the Ranunculaceae being abundant and rich in genera. The lemon and wild vine are commonest on the northern mountains. The walnut and oak (evergreen, holly-leaved and kermes) descend to the secondary heights, where they become mixed with alder, ash, khinjak, Arbor-vitae, juniper, Indigoferae and dwarf laburnum, with species of Astragalus, etc. Lower again and down to 3,000ft. grow wild olive, species of rock-rose, wild privet, acacias and mimosas, barberry and Zizyphus; and, in places, Chamaerops humilis (which is applied to a variety of useful purposes), Bignonia or trumpet flower, sissu, Salvadora persica, verbena, acanthus, varieties of Gesnerae. The lowest terminal ridges, es pecially towards the west, are naked in aspect. Their scanty vegetation is almost wholly herbal; shrubs are only occasional; trees almost non-existent. Labiate composite and umbelliferous plants are most common. Ferns and mosses are almost confined to the higher ranges. On the dreary Kandahar table-lands grow many vigorous plants, such as papilionaceous Leguminosae, and the camel-thorn (Hedysarum Alhagi), Astragalus in several vari eties, spiny rest-harrow (Ononis spinosa), the fibrous roots of which often serve as a tooth-brush; plants of the sub-family Mimosae, such as the sensitive mimosa; a plant of the rue family, called by the natives lipdd; the common wormwood ; also certain orchids, and several species of Salsola. Rue and wormwood give domestic medicines—the former for rheumatism and neuralgia ; the latter for fever, debility and dyspepsia, as well as for a vermi fuge. The lipdd, of heavy nauseous odour, is believed to keep off evil spirits. On some sides and hollows of ravines are found rose-bay (Nerium Oleander), called in Persian khar-zarah, or ass bane, wild laburnum and various Indigoferae.
The chief cultivated trees are mulberry, willow, poplar, ash, and occasionally the plane.
Of commercial value is the gum-resin of Narthex asafetida of the high and dry plains of western Afghanistan, especially between Kandahar and Herat. The Kakar clan collects this gum-resin; and the depot is Kandahar, whence it finds its way to India, for use as a condiment. It is not used in Afghanistan, but the Seistan people eat the green stalks preserved in brine. In the highlands of edible wild rhubarb is an important local luxury. The bleached rhubarb, which has a very delicate flavour, is obtained by covering the young leaves as they sprout with loose stones or an empty jar. Leaf-stalks are gathered and carried down for sale. Bleached and unbleached rhubarb are both largely consumed, both raw and cooked. Walnut and edible pine-nut are both wild growths, which are exported. The sanjit (Elaeagnus orientalis), common on the banks of watercourses, furnishes an edible fruit. The dried tuber of a mountain orchis affords the nutritious mucil age called salep; a good deal of this goes to India. Pistacia khinjak affords a mastic. The fruit, mixed with its resin, is used for food by the Achakzais in southern Afghanistan. The true pistachio is found only on the northern frontier; the nuts are imported from Badakhshan and Kunduz. Mushrooms and other fungi are largely used as food, especially by town Hindus as a substitute for meat. Manna, of at least two kinds, is sold in the bazaars. One, called turanjbin, appears to exude, in small round tears, from the camel-thorn, and also from the dwarf tamarisk; the other, sir-kasht, in large grains and irregular masses or cakes with bits of twig imbedded, is obtained from a tree which the natives call sigh chob (black wood), thought by Bellew to be a Fraxinus or Ornus.
Madder is part of the spring crop near Ghazni and Kandahar and in the west and supplies the Indian demand. It is said to be very profitable, though it takes three years to mature. Saffron is grown and exported. The castor-oil plant furnishes most of the oil of the country. Tobacco is very general; that of Kandahar is exported to India and Bokhara. Two crops of leaves are taken.
Lucerne and a trefoil called shaftal form important fodder crops in the west, and, when irrigated, are said to afford ten or 12 cuttings in the season. The komal (Prangos pabularia) is abundant in the hill country of Ghazni, and is said to extend through the klazara country to Herat. It is stored for winter fodder. Others are derived from the Holcus sorghum, and from two kinds of panick. It is common to cut down the green wheat and barley before the ear forms, for fodder, and the repetition of this, with barley at least, is said not to injure the grain crop. Bellew gives the following statement of the manner in which the soil is some times worked in the Kandahar district :—Barley is sown in No vember ; in March and April it is twice cut for fodder ; in June the grain is reaped, the ground is ploughed and manured and sown with tobacco, which yields two cuttings. The ground is then pre pared for carrots and turnips, which are gathered in November or December.
European fruits are of many varieties and excellent quality. Fresh or preserved, they form a principal food of a large class of the people, and the dry fruit is largely exported. In the valleys of Kabul mulberries are dried, and packed in skins for winter use. This mulberry cake is often reduced to flour, forming in some valleys the staple food. Vines are sometimes trained on trellises, but most frequently over ridges of earth 8 or 'oft. high; the produce round Kandahar must be enormous.
Open canals are usual in the Kabul valley, and in eastern Afghanistan generally; but in the west much use is made of the karez, a subterranean aqueduct uniting waters of several springs and conducting their combined volume to the surface at a lower level.
Wild mammals include the tiger in the north, the common leopard and other cats, wolves, jackals, foxes and hyenas among the dog tribe, goats, wild sheep, gazelles, deer, Himalayan varieties of markhor and ibex, wild hogs, wild asses (Equus onager). Afghanistan seems to furnish a retreat for the breeding season for many Indian and perhaps some African birds, while in winter its bird life is akin to that of lands farther north.
Of domestic animals, the one-humped camel is cared for and is a stronger breed than the taller one used in India. The two humped camel is used in the north. The yabu, an indigenous horse, is strong and heavy-shouldered and about 14 hands high; it cannot do fast work nor stand great heat. The breed was im proved by Abdur Rahman and those bred in the north are ex ported to Humped cows are kept for milk in the south and south-west, pressed and dried curd being largely eaten; it is said to be a Mongol introduction. Fat-tailed indigenous sheep are either white or russet ; the white fleeces are exported to Per sia and to Europe via Bombay. Mutton salted and dried in the sun is one of the chief foods of the nomad people who also use beef and camel's flesh in the same way. Goats and dogs (pointers and greyhounds) are also noteworthy.
The Durani Afghans claim to be Ben-i-Israel, and insist on their descent from tribes carried away captive from Palestine to Media by Nebuchadrezzar. Yet they also claim to be Pukhtun (or Pa than) in common with all other Pushtu-speaking tribes, whom they do not admit to be Afghan. The bond of affinity between the various peoples who compose the Pathan community is simply the bond of a common language. All of them recognize a common code or unwritten law called Pukhtunwali, which appears to be similar in general character to the old Hebraic law, though modi fied by Mohammedan ordinances, and strangely similar in some points to Rajput custom. Besides their division into clans and tribes, the whole Afghan people may be divided into dwellers in tents and dwellers in houses ; and this division is apparently not coincident with tribal divisions, for of several of the great clans at least a part is nomad and a part settled. Such is the case with the Durani and with the Ghilzai.
Tribal law, with the custom of hospitality, and the vendetta in many forms are rules of life, and even the settled Afghan is very much a soldier. They are able to endure great privation and are sober and stern, and may often become cruel. They have long been free of law and have looked upon taxation as interference to be resisted by force, but now the "modernization" of Afghanistan is said to be proceeding apace.
The cultivators, including owners, tenants, labourers and slaves, are skilled irrigators, utilizing every fragment of profitable land ; some of the Ghilzai are specially skilled in building underground water-channels (karez). The settled folk live chiefly in village communities and leave handicraft and commerce largely to sub ject races save that some Ghilzai are wandering traders (powin daks). Afghanistan is a stronghold of Islam, of the Sunni sect for the most part, though the Hazaras and others are Shiah. The Kafirs, as the name implies, are non-Mohammedans, living in Kafiristan (E.N.E.) ; other tribes of the Indian border are recent converts to Islam. Some of the Durani Afghans of Kandahar and Zamindawar districts are very fanatical "Ghazis," that is, men who have vowed their lives to the extinction of other creeds.
Great Britain, France, Germany, Italy, Persia, Russia and Tur key have legations at Kabul. Kabul (pop. 8o,000) is the historic centre and the limits of its authority have varied greatly from time to time, some mountain regions being practically independent. Herat (pop. 30,000) is largely Persian in character and has often been in rebellion. Kandahar (pop. 6o,000) in the south and Mazar-i-Sherif (pop. 46,200) in the north are other important centres.
Silks, felts, carpets, articles made from camels' and goats' hair, sheepskin coats, soap, clothing, boots, etc., are produced at Kabul, chiefly for the army, in factories that are partly instructional. Herat and Kandahar have long been famed for their silks, felts and carpets, though these are not comparable to true Persian ones. Herat and Kandahar gather fine wool from the nomad shep herds. Commerce across the frontiers has been limited by high duties. India sends to Afghanistan cotton goods, dye-stuffs, hard ware, etc., while Afghanistan sends into India timber, dried fruits, provisions, drugs (especially asafoetida), madder, spices, wool, silk, hides, cattle, tobacco. Merchandise is still_ carried chiefly on camel or pony back, but timber is floated down the streams where that is possible. Cattle go in greater number into Soviet terri tories and food stuffs are also exported in that direction, while im ports from Russian lands into northern Afghanistan include wool and cotton. Trade with Persia is of little account.
The basin of the Kabul river especially abounds in remains of the period when Buddhism flourished. Bamian is famous for its wall-cut figures and at Haibak (on the route between Tashkurghan and Kabul) there are some most interesting Buddhist remains. In the Koh-Daman, north of Kabul, are the sites of several ancient cities, the greatest of which, called Beghram, has furnished coins in scores of thousands, and has been supposed to represent Alex ander's Nicaea. Nearer Kabul, and especially on the hills some miles south of the city, are numerous topes. In the valley of Jalalabad are many remains of the same character.
In the valley of the Tarnak are the ruins of a great city (Ulan Robat) supposed to be the ancient Arachosia. About Girishk, on the Helmand, are extensive mounds and other traces of buildings; and the remains of several great cities exist in the plain of Seistan, as Pulki, Peshawaran and Lakh, relics of ancient Drangiana. An ancient stone vessel preserved in a mosque at Kandahar is almost certainly the same that was treasured at Peshawar in • the 5th century as the begging pot of Sakya-Muni. In architectural relics of a later date than the Graeco-Buddhist period Afghanistan is remarkably deficient. Of the old city of Ghazni, the vast capital of Mahmud and his race, no substantial relics survive, except the tomb of Mahmud and two remarkable brick minarets. A vast and fruitful harvest of coins has been gathered in Afghanistan and the adjoining regions. The concession for archaeological exploration in Afghanistan has been given to France. Regarding the proprie torship of finds, it may be noted that the adoption of regulations such as are in force in Egypt is being considered.
BIBLIOGRAPHY.—Afghanistan is one of the few countries for which Bibliography.—Afghanistan is one of the few countries for which information about armaments is not to be found in the League of Nations Armament? Year Books. Foreign travellers were not encouraged by the present King's predecessors. The preceding notes are from the best accessible reports, culled from many sources. Among the most recent is an English translation by B. K. Featherstone of Through the heart of Afghanistan by Emil Trinkler (Faber and Gwyer, 1928). (G. G. A.)