VARIETIES OF COTTON CLOTH Cotton fabrics comprise a very great variety of distinct types and modifications, both in their structural features as well as the character of texture. In addition to the chief name-types, cotton fabrics also differ in many minor details of their manufacture, in respect of the quality and counts of yarn employed ; the number of warp and weft threads per inch ("ends" and "picks") ; dimen sions and weight of a piece-length ("lump" or "cut") of pre scribed width and length (with reference to piece-goods) ; the particular state in which the cloth is marketed as in the "grey" (i.e., the natural colour of the raw cotton staple) bleached, dyed or other finished condition ; the colour and style of "headings" or other distinctive marks or cross-stripes of coloured or different counts of weft inserted at each end of a "cut-length" of cloth; and many other variations peculiar to the weaving trade.
These variable factors and practices of the trade have created an endless variety of fanciful and frequently meaningless trade names. For these reasons, the following list includes only the prin cipal recognized standard varieties of cotton fabrics, and the chief characteristic features by which they may be identified; along with technical details relating to their manufacture, as the char acter and grade of cotton, counts of warp and weft; number of warp ends and picks per inch, and other essential data; as well as the chief purposes to which they are applied, and the countries to which they are chiefly exported.
The weaving particulars relating to a given piece of cloth are stated in various ways by different manufacturers and cloth merchants, but the prevailing custom of the trade in expressing a specification for a piece of cloth is by the following formula Cloth Specification :-18x152 :36/30 :4oxi 20. The interpreta tion of this formula is:—I8 warp ends and 152 picks per tin. of 36s T. ("twist" yarn for warp) and 3os weft; width of cloth 4oin. and in "cut-lengths" of I2oyd. each.
American.—Plain grey calico fabric of inferior quality; with :27/18 :3ox36; weight 82 lb. Made chiefly in Bacup, Lan cashire and exported in the grey state to Lagos, Dahomey and the Cameroons.
Apron Cloth.—Plain woven coloured check fabric made in various qualities and styles of checking; with about 6o ends and picks per inch of 20s warp and weft. Principally British home trade.
Argentina.—Also known as Austrian Twill and Austria.— Twill cloth of the 2X1 or 3-end jean twill weave; with 72x84: lb. and super-quality weft. Exported in the dyed state (principally black) to the Near East markets, and used for umbrella tops.
Baff or Baft.—Plain calico cloth ; usually with 56x68 :16 to 20/2o to 3 2 : 2 Tin. to 28in. wide. Exported both grey and dyed to West and Central Africa and China, and used for shrouds and loin-cloths.
Bandanna.—Calico fabric with white or brightly coloured spots printed upon a red or dark ground. Originally imported from India as silk and cotton mixture fabrics, and first produced in Glasgow as all-cotton prints for clothing. Made in various quali ties both for British home and export trade.
Batiste.—Plain calico fabric made in various qualities of fine, light and smooth texture, having a distinctive finish termed a "Swiss" finish. A very fine quality is produced from loos T.
("twist" for warp yarn) and 16os counts for weft, and of which a piece 32in. wide x 36in. long weighs only one ounce. Exported both bleached and printed to South America ; also as printed "splits" (i.e., woven with two pieces in the width and cut up the middle, or "split," during weaving or else subsequently) to Singa pore, China and India.
Beatrice Twill-5-shaft 1x4, weft-face twill fabric generally dyed black, with 72x120:36/34:56x90. Usually woven with super quality weft spun "twist-way," and used for linings. British home trade and Colonial markets (especially Australia) ; also exported to Norway, China and the United States.
Beaverteen.—Type of fustian. (See FUSTIAN.) Bedford Cord.—Fabric woven with plain or twilled cords or ribs extending lengthwise, in the direction of warp threads. These fabrics are sometimes wrongly described as piques to which they bear a close resemblance, excepting that piques are woven with plain ribs or cords extending across the fabric in the direction of the weft threads. Bedford cords are made in a variety of differ ent qualities and textures for clothing. British home and Colonial markets (especially Canada) ; also exported to the United States, Bangkok and Singapore.
Brilliante.—Dress-matecial with small diapered spots on a plain or "oatmeal" (crepe) ground; with 64x84:32/24. Exported to Egypt, India, China and other Eastern markets.
Cabot.—Coarse texture of plain grey calico similar to "domes tics" and "T-cloths," but of softer texture ; with 48x4o :20/22: 30 to 3 2x40. Used for sheetings and exported to The Levant, China and Eastern markets.
Calicut.—Plain grey calico fabric in various qualities ; as 52x46: 36/36:25x20. Exported to Java.
Cambric.—A general term to describe the finer qualities and textures of plain calico fabrics; as Ioo/IIo:60/5o:4o2x12o of combed yarn spun from Egyptian cotton, and often with weft spun "twist-way." British home trade; and exported to most countries.
Charmeuse.—Fine sateen texture produced from super-quality yarns spun from Egyptian or Sea Island cotton; with I20 x 180: 80/100:41x90.
Croydon.—Heavy bleached plain calico fabric having a stiff and glossy finish, British home trade.
Denim.—Heavy and coarse twill coloured texture usually of blue or brown, with white weft ; with 66 to 90x50 to 56 :10 to 14/12 tO 16. Used for overalls. British home and South American trade.
Dhootie.—Light texture of plain cloth with coloured and fig ured borders usually down one side only, near the selvedge; with 66 to 90x50 to 56:I0 to 14/12 to 16. Used as loin cloths by the male Hindus; also exported to West Africa.
Diagonal or Cantoon.—Variety of fustian. (See FUSTIAN.) Dimity.—Fabric with stripes usually of a satin or twill weave counterchanged and reversed, and extending in the direction of the warp.
Domestic.—Plain calico fabric, either grey or bleached; with 56 to 64x56 to 64:18 to 24/16 to 20 : 28in. to 39in. or 4oin. wide. For general domestic use, British home trade; also exported to Italy, Turkey, The Levant, Egypt and South America.
Doriah Stripe.—Plain fabric of light textures either with coarser warp threads or else "crammed" ends in the reed in order to pro duce stripes or cords; with 48 to 66x4o to 60 :4o to 50/5o to 70. Exported to India, Java and other Eastern markets.
Drill.—Strong and heavy texture of good quality, with the 3-end warp twill weave from 12s to 24S warp and weft, 28in. to 3oin. wide. Exported to most countries in the grey, bleached, dyed and printed.
Duck.—Strong plain fabric of the canvas type, made in a va riety of textures varying from medium to very heavy grades according to different uses for which it is intended as, for example, sail-cloth, boot lining, tent cloths and such-like purposes. It is usually made from two-, three- or more fold yarn both for warp and weft, densely crowded to produce a close, firm and compact fabric of great durability. "Tent duck" has 5ox5o: 3/4o warp 2/24 weft: and "Army duck," 44x29:3/12 warp 2/18 weft: 31in. wide. British home and Colonial markets.
Flannelette: see FLANNELETTE.
Florentine or Drill.—Heavy twill fabric of the 3xI warp face twill weave; with 8o to Ioox48 to 6o:12 to 16/10 to 20. Dyed a khaki colour for soldiers' and blue for police uniforms. Exported to British Colonies and South America.
Galatea.—Lighter "drill" texture of 2x1 or 3xi twill weave; of fast blue dyed warp and weft, with white or coloured stripes; with 6o to 90x60 to 80:20 to 28/24 to 30 : 26in. to 28in. wide. Used for boys' suitings, nurses' uniforms and light overalls. Brit ish home and Colonial trade ; and exported to every country.
Gingham.—A description of general application to practically all varieties of plain striped and checked fabrics of various qual ities and textures. Used for furniture covering and summer dresses both for British home and Colonial markets; also exported to South America and the Canary islands.
Grandrelle Shirting.—Coloured shirting in which there are introduced warp threads of twofold or threefold yarn consisting of two or more threads of different colours twisted together to pro duce a "fancy" thread termed "grandrelle." Woven with 5-end warp face satin; with 90 to I oox6 2 to 70:2/40 "Grandrelle," and 2os single. Chiefly British home trade.
Grenadine.—Light, open and gauze-like tissue made in a variety of different styles and textures for ladies' dress material. British home trade ; also exported to the Far East and Central America.
Harvard Shirting.—Common variety of coloured striped shirt ing woven chiefly with the so-called "Harvard" and "Cassimere" 4-end, 2X2 twill, and usually with simple tappet and Bobby fig uring; with 52 to 74x56 to 64:24 to 3o/16 to 20 soft spun weft. Chiefly British home trade.
Huck-a-Back.—Fabric having a somewhat rough surface de veloped by the peculiar weave structures of that name; with 56x60:20/20. British home trade; and exported to all countries.
Imperial Sateen.—Variety of fustian. (See FUSTIAN.) Imperial or Swansdown.—Variety of fustian. (See FUSTIAN.) Italian.—Fabric of light texture woven with the 5-shaft weft sateen, and produced in various qualities and textures; as 72x120: 36/4o:36x9o. Used as lining for clothing and exported to China, the East and West Africa.
Jacconette.—Plain calico fabric of a light lawn or muslin tex ture; with 64x52:38/40:42x18. Exported to India and the Far East.
Jean.—Medium heavy fabric of 3-end weft face twill weave: with 52x88:36/28:42in. wide. Used for children's suitings, cor sets, boot linings and dress linings. Exported to Egypt, Persia, Asia Minor and other Eastern markets.
Jeanette.—Fabric similar to "Jean," and woven with the 3-end weft twill; with 76x76:41in.x68yd. Used for linings, British home and Colonial markets; also exported to South America, Nor way, Italy and (printed) to Constantinople.
Lambskin.—Variety of fustian. (See FUSTIAN.) Lasting.—Strong twill fabric produced from hard-twisted warp and weft; with 64x60 : 20/24 : 24in. wide. Used for boot linings and pockets in men's clothing. Exported to South America.
Lawn.—Plain calico fabric of fine texture of which there are several varieties, as "Indian lawn"; "Victoria lawn"; "Persian lawn"; and "Bishops' lawn," each having a distinctive texture and finish peculiar to its kind. British home trade; also exported to China, Singapore and the Philippine islands.
Longcl oth.—Plain calico fabric made in various qualities and textures, bleached and pure finished; as 6ox6o : 30/30 :34 to 36/36. Used for underwear, British home and Colonial markets; also exported to Holland, India, China and the Eastern markets.
Madapolarn.—Plain calico fabric with 84 to 96x72 to 8o:5o to 6o/5o to 6o : 2 8in. to 36in. wide; bleached, and used for under wear. Exported to India, South America and other countries.
Madras Muslin.—Light and open muslin or gauze texture with figuring of soft spun weft. Used for light covers and curtains. Marquisette.—Plain cloth of open gauze or voile texture ; with :68/6o hard twisted warp and weft, and woven with one end in each dent of the reed. For all markets.
Medium.—Plain calico fabric of the "domestic" and "shirting" varieties, grey or bleached and of medium quality and texture. Chiefly British home and Colonial trade.
Mexican.—Fabric similar to "Medium" but of heavier texture; sometimes heavily sized; with 7 2x7 2 : 24/20 :3 2in. to 36in.x24. Bleached, and exported to South and Central America, Singapore and South Africa.
"Mitclieline" or Patent Satin.—A compound double-cloth fabric of firm texture, with raised figuring of coarse weft. Used for counterpanes and toilet covers.
Moleskin.—Variety of fustian. (See FUSTIAN.) Moreen.—Plain ribbed fabric similar to "Royal Rib," with coarse warp threads and fine weft (in the ratio of about 2 or 3 warp to I weft) to develop fine ribs or cords, lengthwise; with to i 1o:12 to 3/30 warp, 38 to 44 weft. Used for linings and exported to all countries.
Mull.—Plain grey cloth; with 63 to 8ox64 to 8o : 6o to 12o/6o to 120; pure sizing for bleaching. Exported to India, China and other Eastern markets.
Muslin.—Very light plain calico texture; with 4o to 96x48 to 84:8o to 1oo/8o to too; bleached, dyed and printed. Ex ported to India, China and other Eastern markets.
Nainsook.—Plain grey fabric of light texture; with 1o8x96: 40/46:3oin. to 32in. wide; bleached and soft finished, for light shirtings ; generally in 1 Syd. pieces. Exported to India, China and Eastern markets.
Nankeen.-3-end twill fabric of strong texture and used for pockets and corsets.
Oatmeal or Crepe Cloth.—Fabric so-called on account of having a somewhat rough surface resembling "oatmeal" or crêpe, devel oped by the peculiar weaves employed in these fabrics that are produced from warp of fine yarn and soft weft of coarse counts; with 48 to 56x48 to 6o:16 to 2o/12 to 16. Also 76x76:32/28. Used for towelling; also printed as Cretonne (q.v.) and ladies' dress fabric. British home and Colonial markets.
Osnaburg.—Plain calico fabric of coarse texture dyed, or in stripes and checks; with 28 to 56x32 to 36:14 to 24/6 to 8. Used for overalls. Exported to the United States, Central Amer ica, North and West Africa and the Canary islands.
Oxford Shirtings.—Fabric of light and open texture, chiefly of the plain weave with warp ends taped in pairs, and with coloured stripes with simple dobby figuring; with 7o to 1oox44 to 50:24 to 3o/12 to 16. Some "Oxford" shirting fabrics of inferior qual ity are woven with the warp ends single, instead of being taped two together in pairs (double) uniformly. British home trade; and exported to China.
Patent Satin.—See "Mitcheline," above.
Pique.—A toilet fabric having ribs or cords of plain cloth ex tending across the width of the fabric at right angles to the selvedges, and as distinct from Bedford cords in which the ribs or cords extend lengthwise of the fabric and parallel with the sel vedges. Used for ladies' skirts and men's vestings. British home and export trade.
Poplin.—Fine plain-ribbed fabric with the ribs running in the direction of the weft; with 144x28:32/10; also 164x58:2/72 warp x 2/5o weft, of super-quality yarn for both warp and weft. Used for dress and blouse fabrics. British home and Colonial trade ; also exported to China and Eastern markets and many other countries.
Printer.—An important class of plain calico fabric of many different qualities and textures, produced in Burnley in Lancashire, (Burnley "lumps") ; in Stockport and Hyde, in Cheshire (Chesh ire printers) ; in Fall River, United States, and many other manu facturing centres. Burnley printers are woven with 52x8o:36 to 44/36 to 54:29in. to Cheshire and Glossop printers with 64x76 to 88:32 to 36/32 to 40:34in. to 36in. wide. British home and Colonial trade and exported to all countries.
Regatta.-3-end twill fabric of soft finish and medium weight, having coloured stripes of different colours; with 64x6o : 24/2o : 27in. to 3 2lin. wide. Used for boys' summer suits, washing dresses and aprons. British home trade; also exported to India and the East.
Ribbed or Corded Velveteen. Variety of fustian. (See FUS