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Dundee

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DUNDEE, royal, municipal and police burgh, county of a city and seaport of Forfarshire, Scotland. Pop. (1931) Broughty Ferry (pop. I1,o58) was added to the burgh in 1913, making its acreage 6,548. It lies on the north shore of the Firth of Tay, 59+ m. N. by E. of Edinburgh by the L.N.E.R. via the Forth and Tay bridges. The L.M.S.R. finds access to the city by way of Perth. The town has a frontage on the water of over 4 m., and rises gradually from the river to Dundee Law and Balgay Hill. The estuary to the E. of Tay bridge is 1 m. wide, and the docks— accessible from it at all stages of the tide—are within 12 m. of the sea.

The town-hall, built in 1734 from the designs of Robert Adam, stands in High Street. It is surmounted by a steeple 14o ft. high, carrying a good peal of bells, and beneath it is a piazza. A city hall, with a fine classic portico, has been built behind it, largely from a bequest of Sir James Caird (d. 1916). The old Town Cross, a shaft 15 ft. high, bearing a unicorn with the date of 1586, once stood in High Street also, but was re-erected within the en closure on the south-west of Town Churches (see below). The halls used for great public meetings are the Volunteer Drill Hall in Parker Square, and Kinnaird Hall in Bank Street. A central library and sculpture galleries in Ward Street were finished in 1915 and the Albert Institute contains the art-gallery, museum, etc. In Dock Street stands the Royal Arch, erected to commem orate the visit of Queen Victoria in 1844. Dudhope Castle, once the seat of the Scrymgeours, hereditary constables of the burgh— one of whom (Sir Alexander) was a companion-in-arms of Wallace, —was granted by James II. to John Graham of Claverhouse. On his death it reverted to the Crown, and is now used as a technical school. Though Dundee was once a walled town, the only relic of its walls is the East Port, preserved because it was said that George Wishart preached from the top of it during the plague of Of the many churches and chapels the most interesting is Town Churches—St. Mary's, St. Paul's and St. Clement's, the three under one roof—surmounted by the noble square tower, 156 ft. high, called the Old Steeple, which was once the belfry of the church erected on this spot by David, earl of Huntingdon, as a thank-offering for his escape from shipwreck on the shoals at the mouth of the Tay 0193). The church perished, but the bell-tower remained and was restored in 1871-1873 by Sir Gilbert Scott. Bishop Forbes (1817-1875) transferred the Anglican see of Brechin to Dundee.

Parks include Dundee Law (18 ac.) on the north, Baxter Park (37 ac.) on the east, Balgay Hill (36 ac.) on the west and, near it, Lochee Park (25 ac.) ; in the extreme north is the park of Fair Muir (12 ac.), and, nearer to the heart of the town, Dudhope Park. Near the north end of the Tay bridge is Magdalen Green, an old common of 17 ac., and along the shore of the estuary there runs for a distance of 21 m. from Magdalen Point to beyond Craig Pier a promenade called the Esplanade. To the north is Caird Park, opened in 1923 on part of the estate given by Sir James Caird in 191 1 ; it contains the ruins of Claverhouse Castle.

Education.—University college in Nethergate, founded in 188o by Miss Baxter of Balgavies (d. 1884) and Dr. John Boyd Bax ter, was opened in 1883, and finally united to the University of St. Andrews in 1897. The curriculum is especially concerned with medicine and natural and applied science. A technical college and school of art was opened in Bell street in 1910. In connection with the high school, a building in the Doric style, dating from 1833, there is a museum, endowed in 188o by Mr. William Harris. Morgan hospital, in Scots Baronial style, immediately north of Baxter Park, was founded in 1868 by John Morgan, a native of Dundee, for poor boys, but was acquired by the school board and transformed into a secondary school. A training school for teachers was opened in Park Place in 1920. The Royal Infirmary is a large institution. The Baldovan asylum for imbeciles, founded in 1854 by Sir John Ogilvy, is said to be the earliest of its kind in Scotland.

Trade and Shipping.—Dundee is noted first for the jute in dustries. Enormous quantities of the raw material are imported from India. Fabrics in jute range from the roughest sacking to beautiful carpets. Another staple industry is the linen manufac ture, which is also one of the oldest, although it was not till the introduction of steam power that headway was made. The chief textile products are canvas (for which the British navy is the largest customer), ropes, sheetings, sackings, carpets, etc. Dundee is also celebrated for its confectionery and preserves, especially marmalade. Other industries are bleaching and dyeing, engineer ing, shipbuilding, tanning, sawmills, the making of boots and shoes, foundries, breweries, corn and flour mills and the construc tion of motor-cars. On the front wharves and harbour works ex tend for 2 rn., and the docks cover stn area of 351 ac., made up thus—Earl Grey Dock, 54 ac.; King William IV. Dock, 64 ac.; Tidal Harbour, 44 ac.; Victoria Dock, 1o4 ac.; Camperdown Dock, 81 ac. There are, besides, graving docks, the ferry harbour and timber ponds. There is regular communication by steamer with London, Hull, Newcastle, Liverpool, Manchester, Belfast and Leith, besides Rotterdam, Hamburg and other continental ports. Of local excursions the two hours' run to Perth is a favourite summer trip.

Dundee returns two members to parliament. The city council consists of the lord provost, bailies and councillors. The corpora tion owns the gas, electricity and water supplies (the latter drawn from an artificial loch at Moni Rie to the N.E., and the loch of Lintrathen, 18 m. to the N.W.).

History.—The name of the city is derived most probably from the Gaelic Dun Taw, "the fort of the Tay," of which the Latin Taodunum is a transliteration—the derivation pointing to the fact of a Pictish settlement on the site. Its earliest authentic mention is in a deed of gift by David, earl of Huntingdon, younger brother of William the Lion, dated about 1200, in which it is designated as "Dunde." Shortly afterwards it was erected into a royal burgh by William the Lion. Edward I. is said to have re moved its charter. Robert Bruce and successive kings confirmed its privileges and rights, and Charles I. finally granted it its great charter. Here Wallace finished his education, and here he slew young Selby, son of the English constable, in 1291. In that year the town fell into the hands of the English, and it was whilst engaged in besieging the castle in 1297 that Wallace withdrew to fight the battle of Stirling Bridge. In their incursion into Scot land under John of Gaunt the English captured and partially destroyed the town in 1385, but retreated to meet a counter invasion of their own country. The English seized it again for a brief space during one of the first earl of Hertford's devastating raids in the reign of Edward VI. Dundee bore such a prominent part in propagating the Reformed doctrines that it was styled "the Scottish Geneva." The marquess of Montrose sacked it in 1645, and then burnt a considerable portion of it. Charles II. spent a few days in the castle after his crowning at Scone (Jan. 1, I 65I) . In the same year General Monk captured it after an obstinate resistance and put more than one-sixth of the inhabitants and garrison, including its governor Lumsden, to the sword. Sixty vessels were seized and filled with plunder ; but the ships, says Gumble in his Life of Monk, "were cast away within sight of the town and that great wealth perished." In 1684 John Graham, of Claverhouse—to the north of the town, became constable, and in 1688 provost. In the same year James II. created him Viscount Dundee.

With modern changes, some picturesque but insanitary build ings, narrow winding streets and unsavoury closes disappeared, along with a few structures of more or less historic interest, like the castle, the mint and numerous convents. But the large fac tory population, together with the number of high tenement buildings, has given rise to slum conditions with which the munic ipality has endeavoured to cope by means of housing schemes. The wholesale clearances have improved both the public health and the appearance of the city. Queen Victoria granted a charter to Dundee, dated Jan. 25, 1889, raising it to the status of a city, and since 1892 its chief magistrate has been styled lord provost.

Among men more or less eminent who were born or lived in Dundee may be named Hector Boece (1465-1536), Viscount Dundee (1643-89), James Halyburton, the reformer (1518-89), many of the Scrymgeours and Wedderburns, and James Chalmers, the post-office reformer. George Constable of Wallace Craigie, the prototype of Jonathan Oldbuck in Sir Walter Scott's Antiquary, had a residence in the east end of Seagate; and William Thom (1798-1848), the writer of The Rhymes of a Handloom Weaver, was buried in the Western Cemetery.

Suburbs.—Broughty Ferry lies on the Firth of Tay, 31 m. E. of Dundee. The name is a corruption of Brugh or Burgh Tay, in allusion to the fortress standing on the rock that juts into the Firth. It is believed that a stronghold has occupied this site since Pictish times. The later castle, built in 1498, fell into the hands of the English in 1547 and was held by them for three years. Gradually growing more or less ruinous it was acquired by the Government in 1855, repaired, strengthened and converted into a Tay defence, mounting several heavy guns. Owing to its healthy and convenient situation, Broughty Ferry has become a favourite residence of Dundee merchants. To the north-west lies Benvie; Camperdown House is in the parish. Fowlis, 5 m. N.W., is remarkable for its 15th century church, with carved ambry and rood-screen (curious representation of the Cruci fixion), decorated font, crocketed door canopy and several pic tures. The ruined castle adjoining the church ultimately became a dwelling for labourers. Lundie, 3 m. farther out in the same direc tion, contains several lakelets, and its kirkyard is the burial-place of the earls of Camperdown. Tealing, 4 m. N. of Dundee, was the scene of the ministry of John Glas before he was deposed for heresy. Newport and Wormit, on the opposite bank of the Tay, are connected with Dundee by steam ferry.

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