ASCENT OF MOUNT EVEREST A description of the attempts to climb Mt. Everest may be divided under three headings : the reconnaissance expedition of 1921 ; the first attempt, in 1922, and the second, in 1924.
Previous attempts had been made to obtain permission to travel in that part of Tibet and to explore and attempt to climb Mt., Everest, but only the expeditions of 1921, 1922, and 1924 are dealt with here. The extraordinary advance in the relations be tween Tibet and the outside world made it possible in 192o to approach the Tibetan Government with every hope of success in obtaining from them permission to approach the mountain and ex plore its surroundings. As a preliminary, Col. Howard-Bury, in 192o, visited Phari Dzong. His negotiations were successful and in the winter of that year the first expedition was organized to re connoitre and explore all the approaches to the great group and to make preliminary climbs on the mountain to ascertain the condi tions and favourable points of attack.