FACE CREAMS are the basis of most modern systems of caring for the skin. Normally, the oil glands which lie in the lower layers of the skin secrete a natural lubricant which escapes from the thousands of pores and spreads out over the surface. Its purpose is to keep the skin smooth and soft, supple and water proof. However, the conditions of modern life—faulty diet, lack of exercise, living in super-heated houses surrounded by exces sively dry air—serve to upset the functioning of the skin's lubri cating system. Dry skin and early fine lines resulting from this parched condition are characteristic of the skin of this era. To counteract this dryness, specialists recommend face creams, whose purpose it is to supply the lack of natural lubricant in the skin. These creams are to be applied by means of massage. They sof ten the horny surface layer of the skin, and render the skin smooth and supple. There is much discussion between dermatologists and beauty specialists as to whether or not the skin cells actually assimilate these creams presented externally. But their use does improve the appearance of the skin and prevent and correct fine lines and wrinkles, and so the discussion may be left in the realm of science. The thousands of advertised face creams fall into several general classes.
A cleansing cream is generally a cream of very light consistency, containing no waxy ingredients. It is intended to be used as a cleansing agent for the face and neck (to supplement, or sup plant, the use of soap and water on the face). This should be a cream which melts at skin temperature, so that it can be smoothed easily over the skin. It should pick up dust, powder and impurities on the skin, without the necessity of deep massage movements. It should be made of oils which are not readily absorbed by the skin; otherwise the impurities might be absorbed with the cream. A cleansing cream softens and removes heavier grease on the skin and melts down impurities which clog the pores.
A massage cream is variously named a "tissue cream," "muscle building cream," "skin food," "face moulding cream," by the several makers of creams of this type. It is a heavier cream than the cleansing cream ; it is designed as a medium for massaging, patting, moulding and manipulating the muscles to increase cir culation in the face and neck. It is made of oils which are ab sorbed by the skin, for its purpose is to round out the tissues and prevent or correct wrinkles. Cosmetic specialists disagree as to the relative merits of mineral, vegetable and animal fats as in gredients for supplying the needs of the skin. Vegetable and animal fats may perhaps be absorbed more readily, but they have the disadvantage of turning rancid if left on the skin for several hours (as over night), and releasing fatty acids in the pores which pave the way for pimples and other skin infections.
A vanishing cream is a cream which literally vanishes as it is smoothed on the skin. It has generally a soap base. It smooths out rough patches and leaves a soft bloom which makes a becom ing and lasting base for powder and make-up. Its use prevents rouge from entering the pores. There are, in addition, other types of cream represented on the market. A "rolling cream" is made of casein base. "Astringent creams" are designed for their refining action on the pores. Many liquid creams are actually creamy lotions containing glycerine, gum tragacanth, benzoin or other emollients. (D. Co.)