FEZ (Fas), capital of northern Morocco. Its historical im portance as much as the numbers and the wealth of its population entitle Fez to be called the real centre—religious, political and economic—of the Shereefian empire. It lies in 34° 6' 3" N., 4° 38' 15" W., about 23o m. N.E. of Marrakesh, loo m. E. from the At lantic and 85 m. S. of the Mediterranean on the great line of com munication between the Atlantic coast and Algiers. It is beauti fully situated in a deep valley on the Wad Fas, an affluent of the Wad Sebu, which divides the town into two parts—the ancient town, Fas el Bali, on the right bank, and the new, Fas el Jadid, on the left.
Like many other Oriental cities, Fez from a distance appears a very attractive place. It stretches out between low hills, crowned by the ruins of ancient fortresses, and though there is nothing imposing, there is something particularly impressive in the sight of that white-roofed conglomeration of habitations, broken only by occasional mosque towers. Except on the south side the city is surrounded by hills, interspersed with groves of orange, pome granate and other fruit trees, and large olive gardens.
From its peculiar situation Fez has a drainage superior to that of most Moorish towns. When the town becomes very dirty, the water is allowed to run down the streets by opening lids for the purpose in the conduits and closing the ordinary exits, so that it overflows and cleanses the pavements. The general dampness of the town renders it unhealthy, however, as the pallid faces of the inhabitants betoken, but this is considered a mark of dis tinction and is jealously guarded.
Streets and Trade.—Most of the streets are exceedingly nar row, and as the houses are high, and built in many cases over the thoroughfares, these are often very dark and gloomy, though, since wooden beams, rough stones and mortar are used in building, there is less of that ruined, half-decayed appearance so common in other Moorish towns where mud concrete is the material employed.
As a commercial town Fez is a great depot for the trade of Barbary. The manufactures still carried on are those of yellow slippers of the famous Morocco leather, fine white woollen and silk haiks, of which it is justly proud, women's embroidered sashes, various coarse woollen cloths and blankets, cotton and silk hand kerchiefs, silk cords and braids, swords and guns, saddlery, brass trays, Moorish musical instruments, rude painted pottery and col oured tiles. As in other capitals each trade has a district or street devoted chiefly to its activities. Old Fez is the business portion of the town, new Fez being occupied principally by Government quarters and the Jews' mellah.
Schools and Mosques.—In the early days of Mohammedan rule in Morocco, Fez was the seat of learning and the empire's pride. Its schools of religion, philosophy and astronomy enjoyed a great reputation in Africa and also in southern Europe, and were even attended by Christians. On the expulsion of the Moors from Spain, refugees of all kinds flocked to Fez, and brought with them some knowledge of arts, sciences and manufactures, and thither flocked students to make use of its extensive libraries. But its glories were brief, and though still "the university town" of Morocco, it retains but a shadow of its greatness. There are about 5,50o students who read at the Karueein. They pay no rents, but buy the keys of the rooms from the last occupants, selling them again on leaving.
The Karueein is celebrated as the largest mosque in Africa. On account of the vast area covered, the roof, supported by 366 pillars of stone, appears very low. The side chapel for services for the dead contains 24 pillars. All these columns support horse shoe arches, on which the roof is built, long vistas of arches being seen from each of the 18 doors of the mosque. The large lamp is stated to weigh 1,763 lb. and to have 509 lights, but it is very seldom lit. The total number of lights in the Karueein is given as 1,70o. The mosque of Mulai Idris, built by the founder of Fez about the year 810, is considered so sacred that the streets which approach its entrance are forbidden to Jews, Christians or f our footed beasts. The sanctity of the shrine in particular is esteemed very great.
Since Morocco was placed under French protection in 1912 a new city has grown up 5 km. to the west of the old town, leaving the picturesque charm of the latter unspoilt. This new European town lies between the old one and the station of the railway which connects Fez with Rabat, Casablanca and Tangiers and continues as far as Taza, Oujda and Algiers. Of its population of 107,846, 98,205 are natives (90,379 Mohammedan, 7,826 Jewish) and 9,641 are Europeans (7,581 French).
According to tradition Fez was founded in 8o8 by Idris II., son of Idris I. descended from Ali, the son-in-law of the Prophet. The original town consisted of the quarter of the people of Quairan and the Andalusian quarter. In the 13th century Fez, Jeded and many other beautiful medersas or colleges were built to house the foreign students ; some are still standing, and are the purest ex amples of Spanish-Moorish art in Morocco. Fez had then 125,000 inhabitants, but the city declined under the Saadi and Filali sharifs. On May 21, 1911, the French entered Fez at the request of the sultan, Mulai Hafid. It was at Fez that M. Regnault signed the treaty of March 3o, 1912, establishing the French protectorate over Morocco. A riot broke out, and Fez was besieged by the Berbers, but order was restored by General Lyautey.
BIBLIOGRAPHY.—H. Gaillard, Une ville d'lslam: Fez (19o5) ;. A. Bibliography.—H. Gaillard, Une ville d'lslam: Fez (19o5) ;. A. Chevrillon, Crepuscule d'Islqm (19/i) ; P. Ricard, Le Maroc (Guide Bleu) (1926) • Map of Fez published by the "Service Geographique du Maroc."