Fish Cookery

FISH COOKERY. The term fish includes many water ani mals which are classed as "sea food" (e.g., crabs, shrimps, lobsters, turtles, oysters, frogs, etc.), besides fish proper. Fish is sold whole, dressed, salted, dried, tinned or alive. It is generally a cheap and wholesome source of nitrogenous food though compared with meat, bulk for bulk, fish contains more water and refuse. There are three main classes of fish: oily, containing fatty oil dispersed throughout the flesh; white or non-oily (lean), containing oil secreted in the liver ; and shell-fish. Examples of oily fish are sal mon and herring, flat fish and turbot belong to the lean kinds, while the shell-fish include lobsters, crab, oysters, clams, etc. Owing to the shortness and flakiness of the muscle fibres, fish, with the exception of some shell-fish, is easily digested, and should be eaten with vinegar or some form of acid. Oily fish are more nour ishing than lean kinds but less easily digested, and are best grilled or cooked by dry methods. Lean fish are usually supplemented by sauces, etc.

Preparation of Fish for Cooking.

Fresh fish should be "scaled" and cleaned. In skinning round fish, proceed from head to tail, and reverse for flat fish. To fillet flat fish place on a board, grasp the tail firmly with fingers dipped in salt (to prevent slipping), and cut an incision just above the tail. Slip the knife under the flesh and raise it gently, at the same time loosening the skin with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Round fish may be baked and stuffed. All trimmings should be placed in a pan and covered with water to make fish stock for sauces. Roes in large fish should be removed, cooked separately and served as savouries on toast.

Methods of Cooking Fish.—There are many ways of cooking fish. Boiling is the simplest, though the least nourishing, as much of the flavouring juices is lost. This method of cooking is suitable for large, round fish or for thick pieces. The water should simmer, not boil, and only enough used to cover the fish. Sea water is excellent for boiling sweet fish. Add lemon juice or vinegar to the water to keep the fish white and firm and add salt unless a salt fish. Boiling is the best method for cooking salt fish. Tasteless fish requires additional spices and flavourings added to the water. Allow 5 min. to the pound for thin fish, i o min. or over for larger fish. Steaming is better than boiling, but takes a little longer. Small fillets of fish may be steamed on an oiled plate over a pan of boiling water. Squeeze lemon juice over to keep the flesh white. Steaming is useful for invalid fish cookery (see INVALID COOK ERY).

Certain fish are best baked and stuffed or baked au naturel. Fish may also be baked in a tin with spices and butter, or in milk. Paper bags (oiled) are excellent for baking fish. Truss whole fish before baking. Broiling or grilling is suitable for oily fish, which should be placed on a greased gridiron. If thick, split the fish down the centre and grill the flesh side first. Remove head and tail for grilling. Planked fish is grilled and served on a board made for the purpose. Frying is one of the most popular methods of cooking lean fish and may take the form of frying in a bath of boiling fat or "pan" frying in a shallow pan. Oil is better than any other fat for frying fish, as it keeps the colour a clear golden-brown. All fish that is fried must be perfectly dry. It can be served with a sauce but this is not necessary unless the fish is fried in batter. Certain kinds of fish are tasty if stewed in the form of a souchy (in the United States, chowder), that is, slices of fish simmered in broth with vegetables and spices. A bouillabaisse is a special dish much eaten on' the Continent and consists of a stew or chowder of several kinds of fish. In cooking shell-fish other than crabs and lobsters, be. very careful not to boil them, as they then become tough. Periwinkles, snails, etc., are served an naturel with butter and chopped parsley. Raw oysters and clams may be served in their shells with accompaniments of vinegar, lemon, red pepper and various other relishes.

Sauces for fish are (a) those with a water white sauce (drawn butter sauce) or a fish stock white sauce as a foundation; (b) those with melted butter as a foundation; (c) those with mayon naise, Hollandaise or other butter-egg yolk sauces. Sharp ingre dients, such as capers, horseradish and pickles, are often added (see SAUCES).

Roe.—This is a spawn or milt of fish. In the case of large fish the roe is removed and prepared for table separately in various ways. Soft roes, as herring, etc., are served on toast as a savoury. Shad roe is a delicacy in the United States. Hard roes, as cod roes, are frequently dipped in batter and fried in deep fat. Caviare, sturgeon roes (salted), is served plain on sippets of bread and butter as hors d'oeuvres.