FLANNELETTE, a descriptive term signifying a particu lar style of finishing and applied to an important class of cotton fabrics of simple texture, which have either one side only or, more usually, both sides formed with a short fleecy "nap" or fur. This nap is developed after weaving, by submitting the fabric to a finishing operation variously described as "teasling," "raising," or "perching," during which the fibrous filaments of cotton are scratched up and raised, thereby producing the short furry nap which is the distinctive characteristic of flannelette.
Flannelette is made in many different qualities ranging from comparatively coarse to fine textures that are used for a variety of domestic purposes, but mainly for clothing, and especially for undergarments and night attire, for which it is very suitable ow ing to its flannel-like and woolly character which imparts to the body a feeling of comfort and warmth. This attribute of flan nelette results, of course, more especially from the presence of air in the short nap, which, being a poor conductor of heat, serves the more effectively to insulate the body, and thus prevents the radiation of heat, after the manner of the furry coats of animals.
It is this aerated property of flannelette which increases its sus ceptibility to ignition, for until the nap is formed on the surface it is no more inflammable than any other type of fabric, whether produced from cotton or other textile material. Flannelette does not possess the inherent properties of highly inflammable volatile and ethereal fluids of an explosive character, which are liable to ignition by a flame at some distance. Unless it comes into actual contact with fire, it is as immune from the risk of ignition as fab rics of any other textile material. Garments made of flannel ette are in universal use, especially as night attire for children, who are often foolishly allowed to crouch near the fire to warm themselves just before going to bed, or to retire to bed carrying a lighted lamp or candle. These are the occasions when flannel ette becomes a dangerous material, and herein lies the only risk of its use, not in any inherent property of inflammability. Indeed, it is highly probable that by providing a cheaper material for warm clothing, flannelette has saved infinitely more lives than it has destroyed. Nevertheless, so strong is the prejudice of many people against the risk of fire incurred by using flannelette that it is, in some cases, submitted to chemical treatment in order to render it harmless. The additional cost of that process, however, is such as to prevent its becoming a commercial success.
There is no feature of special technical interest attaching to the manufacture of flannelettes, which are usually based on plain calico, three-end 13E2 twill, four-end 23E2 twill, or a similar weave structure, calculated to produce a relatively close and firm tex ture, free from long "floating" threads that would be liable to break during the operation of raising the nap. Also, since the nap is formed by raising the fibres composing the weft yarn, this is spun "soft," with less twist and of coarser counts than the warp yarn, which requires to be stronger than the weft.
Flannelettes are produced in a variety of different styles, as "plain," striped, checked, and sometimes printed with simple diapered figuring. The plain fabrics are usually woven in the "grey" state, or natural colour of cotton, and afterwards piece dyed, or else bleached; while the stripes and check patterns are developed by employing threads of coloured warp and weft.