Large sums of money have been invested in rings, mostly dia monds, emeralds, pearls, rubies and sapphires. Where a diamond of so-carat used to be considered large, 15-carat diamonds are now frequently worn, the largest stones being worn for rings weighing up to 4o carats.
The difference between jewels worn during the day and those worn in the evening is less noticeable. Rows of pearls of great value are worn everywhere, at any time. The modern tendency is to wear two or three strings held together by the same important diamond or emerald clasp at the back, and falling closely to gether in front.
The use of the wrist watch and of vanity and cigarette cases has become universal. Regarding the latter, while gold and enamel remain the foundation, they are enriched by semi-precious or precious stones. They are also made of hard stones, such as black onyx, Russian jade, lapis, amber and grey agate, decorated with diamonds. The less expensive cases are made of tortoiseshell, Russian birch, or compositions resembling hard stones.
The dominant note in modern jewellery is the intensive use of coloured stones, the cutting of the stones, and the design. While no new coloured stones have been found, the blending of so many different kinds of coloured stones together has probably never been seen before. The results were obtained by the com bined use of precious stones, semi-precious stones and hard stones such as black onyx, jade, lapis, amber and agate. While in previous periods all the stones used were round or square, now, except for the small round diamonds, the stones are cut in a variety of shapes to fit the design. Even the most valuable diamonds, regardless of weight, are now cut in square or rec tangular shapes, like emeralds, and in such a way that only the finest, cleanest stones can stand the test. The use of coloured stones engraved with oriental designs has added a new touch to modern jewels. (J. CAR.) See C. Holme, Modern design in Jewelry (1902) ; H. Barth, Das Geschmeide (2 vols. 1903-04) ; C. J. Davenport, Jewelry (1905) ; H. Vever, La Bijouterie francaise au XIX Siecle (1906, etc.).
of civilization to be set against the untutored love of mere glitter, but many other factors have to be considered. Some of these become obvious at once when a comparison of the jewellery of the Far East with that of western Europe or America is attempted. Even the circumstance that in such a comparison Japan would have to be left almost entirely out of the question is relevant. Living in a mountainous country with scanty natural resources, and parted from their neighbours by the ocean, the Japanese hardly know the meaning of jewellery.
The character of the personal ornaments depends to a large extent upon the minerals and metals which a country provides, upon its climate, and upon the amount and nature of the clothing worn. Consideration must also be given to religious beliefs and national customs, giving to this or that article of jewellery a special significance, and limiting its use to persons of a particular age, con dition or station. Personal ornaments may serve as indispensable articles of dress, rather than as mere embellishments, and their nature is thus to a large extent determined by the purpose they serve. The influence of religion and ritual observance is too obvi ous to need emphasizing. In the East, the custom of accumulating savings in the form of jewellery is a factor not to be overlooked. A young bride's dowry may consist entirely of personal ornaments in gold or silver, or of a headdress strung with coins or precious stones. But others too find in jewellery a convenient means of holding their wealth, enabling them to have it continually with them, both for safeguarding and for use when occasion requires.