Lima

During Peru's struggle for independence Lima was the centre of Spanish resistance, and even after independence was declared (1821), it remained rigidly conservative. The era of reconstruc tion was followed by a vast influx of money from guano deposits, which resulted in some public improvements, such as the railway to Callao (1851), lighting and water systems. The city has suf fered from all the revolutions which have convulsed Peru under the republic, but the greatest calamity was its occupation by a Chilean army from Jan. 17, 1881, to Oct. 2 2, 1883. During that time public buildings and scientific, literary and artistic collections were systematically pillaged. The spirit, as well as much of the history of Lima, is embodied in the six volumes of Tradiciones Peruanas by Ricardo Palma.

Streets, Buildings and Public Utilities.

The present city is a curious blend of old and new. The streets, about 3o ft. wide, are paved with stone or asphalt. Most of them have a different name on every block. The houses are usually one storey in height, of adobe covered with plaster, built about a patio with plants and flowers, and barred outer windows. The better ones are two storeys high, with balconies overlooking the street. The Torre Tagle mansion, now the foreign office, is the best remaining ex ample of secular colonial architecture. The Plaza de Armas is still the centre of Lima, from which tram and omnibus lines radiate. It is surrounded by the cathedral on the east, the archbishop's palace, municipal building, Government palace (Palace of the Viceroys) recently rebuilt and enlarged, shops and arcades. On the Plaza de la Inquisition is the ancient Inquisition building, now the senate house, and the chamber of deputies is near by.

All the plazas of Lima have fountains, shrubs and flowers, and some, statues of national heroes including Manco Capac, Bolivar, San Martin, Bolognesi. Many wide avenues, paved with concrete, are favourite promenades. (Recent street-paving to May 1928 totals 109 m.) The Paseo Colon, 1 m. long, 15o ft. wide,. with statue of Columbus, is bordered by trees, flowers and beautiful residences. At one end is the Exposition park, 3o ac. of gardens, walks, artificial lakes, the national museum, mining and metal lurgy exposition building and a zoological garden. A favourite promenade for the poorer classes is the Alameda de los Descalzos, north of the river, a shady avenue with statues and marble benches, leading to the monastery of the barefoot friars. Several concrete or asphalt highways have recently been built to neigh bouring towns, such as the Avenida del Progreso to Callao and Avenida Leguia to Miraflores, five miles to the south. Electric tramways run to Miraflores, Barranco and Chorrillos, to Mag dalena and through Callao to La Punta, all of which are bathing and yachting resorts. In and about Lima there are 87 m. of such

lines.

During winter, the favourite resort is Chosica, 3o m. up on the Central railway, with a sunny climate above the fogs. A highway is finished for about half the distance. Peruvians are fond of sports, especially association football. A modern country club has recently been built with tennis-courts, golf-links and polo-field. The Jockey club has a race-course with large grand-stand. The bull-ring, Plaza de Acho, built in 1768, holds 8,000 people. There are several theatres of the better class, and a score of cinemas. The ancient City of the Kings is beginning to take on a modern appearance, with tall office buildings, banks, schools, dwellings, an up-to-date hotel (1924), new tobacco monopoly headquarters, post and telegraph office, while recent suburban real estate devel opments cover i5,000,000 sq. metres. An enlarged water-supply in volved building two reservoirs of reinforced concrete, of 26,000, 000 and 13,000,000 litres capacity, additional collecting galleries, and a new aqueduct, and renewing 62 m. of pipe. Present con sumption is about half the capacity. A new 16 in. main has also been built to Miraflores. An up-to-date incinerating plant has been recently installed.

Churches and Other Institutions.

In spite of these modern improvements, the past still presides over Lima. More than so Spanish colonial churches are scattered throughout the city, among which are Santo Domingo, San Francisco, La Merced, San Agus tin and the Sanctuary of Santa Rosa de Lima, built on the site of the house where she was born in 1586, besides monasteries and convents of which that of San Francisco is the largest. Freedom of worship was granted to Protestants in 1915, and there are now seven Protestant churches. Among the clubs, some of which are located on the Plaza de Armas, should be mentioned the Na tional, founded 1855, Union, 1868, and many foreign clubs such as the Phoenix (British) club. Learned societies include the Athenaeum, founded (1877) as a literary organization, the His torical Institute (1905) and the Geographical Society (1888), with a library of i0,000 volumes, 2,000 maps and a small museum as well as a seismological observatory. Its bulletins are a treasure house of information. The Corps of Mining and Hydraulic En gineers (1902) also issues bulletins indispensable to a student of the field. There is a national academy of medicine (1885), an outgrowth of that established by Dr. Unanue in 1787, engineers' and lawyers' clubs, a geological society and many more.