(b) Flax, Hemp and Jute.—The manufacture of cloth from flax is of very ancient date, and towards the close of the 16th century Scottish linen cloths were largely exported to foreign countries, as well as to England. Regulations in regard to the manufacture were passed in 1641 and 1661. To encourage the trade it was
enacted in 1686 that the bodies of all persons, excepting poor tenants and cotters, should be buried in plain linen only, spun and made within the kingdom. The Act was renewed in 1693 and 1695, and in the former year another Act was passed prohibiting the export of lint and permitting its import free of duty. At the time of the Union the annual amount of linen cloth manufactured in Scotland is supposed to have been about 1,500,000 yards. The Union gave a considerable impetus to the manufacture, as did also the establishment of the Board of Manufactures in 1727, which applied an annual sum of £2,650 to its encouragement, and in 1729 established a colony of French Protestants in Edinburgh, on the site of the present Picardy Place, to teach the spinning and weaving of cambric. The counties in which linen is now most largely carried on are Forfar, Perth, Fife, Aberdeen, Renfrew, and Midlothian. Dundee is the principal seat of the manufacture of coarser fabrics, Dunfermline of the table and other finer linens, while Paisley is widely known for its sewing threads. The allied industry of jute is the staple industry of Dundee. In 1921 the operatives in the flax, jute and hemp industry numbered 55,035.
(c) Cotton.—The first cotton mill was built at Rothesay by an English company in 1779, though Penicuik also lays claim to priority. The Rothesay mill was soon afterwards acquired by David Dale, who also established cotton factories in 1785 at New Lanark, afterwards so closely associated with the socialistic schemes of his son-in-law, Robert Owen. The counties of Lanark and Renfrew are now the principal seats of the industry. The great majority of the cotton factories are concentrated in Glasgow, Paisley and the neighbouring towns, but the industry extends in other districts of the west and is also represented in the counties of Aberdeen and Perth. As compared with England, however, the manufacture has stagnated. The number of hands employed in 185o was 34,325, in 1901 it was 34,057, and in 1921 (including bleachers, dyers, printers, calenderers, etc.) it was 41,212.
(d) Silk and other Textiles.—The principal seats of the silk manufacture are Paisley and Glasgow. In 1901 the number em ployed amounted to 2,424, but in 1921 it was only 68o, including those engaged in artificial silk manufacture, an industry which has increased in importance since that date. The weaving of lace curtains has made considerable progress. Hosiery manufactures, a characteristic Border industry, has its chief seat at Hawick. In 1921 34,493 persons were engaged in the production of miscel laneous textiles, such as rope, carpets, lace, etc. The textile in dustry has been comparatively prosperous in recent years, and the output in 1928 was probably greater than before the World War.