SERGE. A general term denoting several varieties of worsted twill fabrics, but more particularly that employed for men's suit ings and women's costume, dress and coating fabrics. Serge fabrics are produced with a distinct twill weave and are of a coarser and somewhat rougher texture than the lighter grades of worsted fabrics. They are usually based on the even-sided regu lar twill weaves, as the four-end two-and-two twill, and the six-end three-and-three twill weave, according to the char acter of texture required and the purpose for which it is intended.
Thus, serge of lighter and medium textures suitable for women's wear, are usually based on the two-and-two twill weave, whilst the three-and-three twill weave is better suited for serge of heavier, closer and stronger textures, as this weave, by permitting of a relatively freer interlacement of the warp and weft threads thereby allows of the employment either of coarser and stronger yarn or else of a greater number both of warp and weft threads per inch being inserted in the fabric produced.
Serge fabrics are usually woven from Botany worsted yarns of counts ranging from 2/30's down to 2/18's, and with the number of warp threads and picks per inch varying according to the counts of yarn employed, and the weight and character of texture re quired, and of which there are innumerable grades and qualities ranging between extreme limits chiefly according to the particu lar use for which they are intended. Worsted yarn for the warp and woollen yarn for the weft, or else all worsted yarn both for warp and weft, of the better grades of wool, are employed in the superior qualities of serge fabrics.
So-called silk serges are used for women's dress and coating fabrics, while lighter grades of silk serge are used for coat and dress linings and also for umbrella covers. The description of "serge" is also applied to many other varieties of fabrics having the general textural features and other characteristics of serge fabrics. (H. N.)