TWEED, a term of very general application in the woollen and worsted trades. It is employed as a trade description for a very large variety of woollen and worsted fabrics that embody the same general textural features, but which differ in the minor de tails of their manufacture, construction and finish. They are described as "Scottish," "Harris," "Cheviot," "Irish," "Yorkshire," "Saxony" and "West of England" tweeds, according to the par ticular locality of their origin, the yarn used in their construction, their character of structure, texture, finish and other details.
The description of this particular variety of worsted fabrics as "Tweeds" is commonly, but erroneously, associated with the Scottish river of that name. The origin of the word "tweed" how ever, has no reference to the river Tweed, but is said to be due to an error on the part of a London clerk who, in the year 1826, when writing out an invoice for these goods, inadvertently wrote the word "tweeds" instead of "tweels," the Scottish for "twills." Or ders were placed for more "Scottish tweeds"—a novel description which immediately won the popular favour and became firmly established in the clothing trade as a brand of quality.
The chief characteristic feature of the true type of "tweed" fabrics in general is, as the name suggests, their construction on a twill weave basis, although they are not restricted entirely to the simple regular twill weave structures, as many tweed fabrics are based on the numerous modifications of those weaves. Tweed
fabrics are produced from Scottish, Cheviot, Saxony and many other types of worsted and woollen yarns of various counts and quality, and woven in solid colours, mingled "heather" tones, and coloured stripes and checks in endless variety of pattern and col our, and in every variety of texture suitable both for men's and women's clothing for outer wear, and for every season of the year.
"Herring-bone" twills, "diamonds," "chevrons," "cross-twills" and "basket" weaves are popular styles for tweed designs, which are now more of a broken character than formerly, while more intricate patterns are introduced in textures of superior quality. A new vogue of quite recent origin consists of printed tweed effects with the pattern printed on both sides of the fabric to give the impression of woven designs. These printed tweeds are executed with such realistic effect that it is in some cases very difficult with out close inspection to distinguish the printed imitation tweed effect from the genuine woven tweed patterns. (H. N.)