The face of the clock requires a piece of clear lumber dressed on two sides to one-half an inch. It is better to fit the face to the framework than to try to square it up to the correct size inde pendently. Get the width first, by planing one edge, then holding in position, and marking the other. Plane to this line, putting the piece in place occasionally to see that you get a good fit. Hold the face in position, and, with the knife point, carefully mark both ends. Saw, plane, and fit these ends. The corners are marked by setting the dividers to two inches, and are sawed with the turning saw. Scrape and sandpaper all the mill marks off, and fasten four small metal buttons on the back so that they will catch the cross-bars and keep the face from falling for ward. The box which holds the movement is fastened to the cross-bars, and keeps the face from falling backward.
The box which is to contain the movement is made of half-inch poplar dressed on two sides. The sides should be made long enough to reach from cross-bar to cross-bar. The size of the box will depend upon the kind of movement put in. The usual size would be six inches deep; six inches high, inside measurement; and eight inches wide. The holes for the chains, pendu lum, etc., should be put in by the one who sets the movement. Unless you are experienced in such things, you would better get some person to assist you in setting the movements. With the size of the box given above, the gong should be fastened on the outside of the back, the striker being bent so as to extend through an opening.
The back of the box should be put on with screws so that it can easily be taken off.
The figures of the face come with the move ment, and have soft brass pins soldered to the back, by means of which they are fastened to the face. Take a piece of heavy paper and make a pattern of the clock, full size. With your com pass, describe a circle, with a radius of six and three-quarters inches. Divide this circle into twelve parts. An easy way to do this is to draw a horizontal and a vertical line through the cen ter; then, using the same radius as that of your circle place successively one point of the com pass where these lines cut the circle, and allow the other point to mark the circle where it will. Draw lines through opposite points, and they will be found to pass through the center of the circle and divide it into twelve equal parts.
Place the figures in position on the paper, pushing the pins through the paper when in po sition. Notice the arrangement of the figures in the picture (Plate 21, B), the three and the nine being the ones at which the change is made. Place this pattern on the wood, and drill holes for the pins. Do not put the figures on until all the wood finishing has been done.
A good finish for the clock can be obtained by staining with brown Flemish water stain, and filling. When thoroughly dry, apply one or two coats of prepared wax.