Casement Window Construction

CASEMENT WINDOW CONSTRUCTION. Fig. 93 shows the construction of an inward-opening casement; also the manner of making and applying stucco to the exterior surfaces of frame walls.

The only serious objection to the use of case ment windows in general, is that it is very diffi cult to make them proof against rain and wind; and with casements opening inward, the difficulty is much greater than with those open ing outward. This detail shows as simple a method as can well be employed in constructing an inward-opening casement, though it is not always thoroughly weather-tight during driving rainstorms, when the house is in an exposed location.

The frame is made out of two-inch stock, rebated for the sash, for outside blinds or storm sash. The channel at B on both jambs of the frame, is for the purpose of catching any water that may beat in between the sash and the frame, and for conveying it downward to the sill, on which it discharges in the manner indi cated by the arrows at B. A filling piece A, of the same material and finish as the adjoining interior woodwork, is placed on the inner edge of the frame, so that none of the frame will be exposed in the room.

The sill is usually the weak point of inward opening casements, owing to the fact that what ever rebate is made for the sash, must neces sarily have its lower edge on the inside of the window, so that any water which once enters between the lower rail of the sash and the sill will leak into the room. To prevent the water from entering at this point, an undercut drip is provided on the lower rail of the sash, so that any water which may trickle down the outside surface of the sash will drop to the sill from the lower edge; and the sill has a hollow in the raised portion just under the sash, for the pur pose of casting off any water which may be driven against it in severe weather.

The sill is rebated for the outside blinds, and has an apron which is tongued into it.

The wall is frame, constructed in the usual manner of two by four-inch studs placed sixteen inches on centers, and doubled for jambs, heads, and sills of openings. It is lathed and plastered

on the inside; and grounds G are set as a nail ing for the inside finishing woodwork.

The trim is moulded and hollow-backed and mitered at angles, and has a face-mould. It finishes on wood plinth blocks of the same height as the adjoining base; anclunderneath the window a moulded panel-back is provided. Walls should be plastered behind panel-backs, but the finish coat may be omitted. Panels should be set allow for expansion and contraction, and the mouldings should be nailed to the stiles and rails of the panel-back. Also, the joint of panels with the stiles and rails should be so constructed that the panel may be readily removed by taking off the moulding. This is very essential, as panels frequently need replacing, owing to cracks and warping.

In order that the wall may be plastered behind the panel-back without increasing its thickness, the studs between the floor and the sill are three by four inch, set flatwise.

The exterior of the wall is sheathed with matched boards surfaced on one side, and is then covered with waterproof building paper, well lapped and tacked. The surface is then furred with one by two-inch strips placed twelve inches on centers and well nailed. Metal lath is then applied, well lapped, stretched, and stapled to each furring strip.

To this lath the first coat of stucco mortar is applied, and it should be well troweled under pressure to secure a good "key" on the lath. A good mortar for this coat is made of one part domestic Portland cement, one part shell lime, and five parts of clean sharp sand. This coat should be allowed to dry slowly, and, if neces sary to accomplish this, should be frequently sprinkled with water through a hose having a fine sprinkling nozzle, for the first twenty-four hours. The surface should be lightly scratched, so as to provide a "key" for the second coat.