FRAMING FOR A FIREPLACE In Fig. 46, two flues are shown, one to extend to the basement floor, and they are for use of stoves in adjoining rooms. When thimbles are put in to make connection with adjoining rooms, the brickwork should be corbeled out to the full thickness of the wood partition, and a long thimble used to extend through the brickwork, being careful not to let the thimble protrude into the flue space. At sketch A, another way of widening the brickwork at the thimble is shown, which is simply to cut in a cross-piece between the studding, and on this build the extra brickwork with all joints well filled with mortar. In all cases the thimbles should be set at the time of building the chimney-, being careful that all joints are well filled and tuck pointed on both sides; and in addition to this, it would be well to plaster on the inside of the flue from bottom to top.
In the illustration we have shown an ash-pit beneath the fireplace, where the ashes may be dumped and taken out later. This pit should have a vent into the flue, so that when the ash dump is opened a downward draught will be created which will prevent the ash dust from flying back into the room. For supporting the hearth, use iron bars made of 1/2 by 2 iron; and on this, lay brick edgewise, leaving a space of three or four inches for concrete on which to lay the tile hearth. The fireplace should be lined
with firebrick, with the upper part of the brick slanted toward the top of the opening, as shown in the cross-section. The arch in front should be supported on a segment made of % by 3 inch wrought iron, set back from the front so that it will not show. If a straight-top opening is desired, then use a 3-inch by 3-inch angle iron, with the flange on the inside of the brickwork.
The dotted lines show the position of the flue for the fireplace, and will require the open ing or throat to draw over to it; but it should start straight from the fireplace, and gradually draw over to its position as shown. The face of the brickwork should carry up to the ceiling of the first story; and this gives ample space to make the proper bend in the flue. The flues should be independent of other openings.
Cast-iron hoods with damper attachment are quite often used to form the top of open fire places, and are set in place at the time of build ing the chimney. The top should be capped with Portland cement, or with a 3 or 4-inch flat stone with openings cut to fit the flue openings.