Inward-Opening Casement Windows

INWARD-OPENING CASEMENT WINDOWS. Fig. 99 shows a very successful method of construct ing an inward-opening casement so that it will be proof against wind and rain.

The jamb of the frame is set in a rebate in the masonry wall, and has a semicircular groove cut in its outer edge for a corresponding semi circular tongue on the stile of the sash. The sash tongue fits snugly into this groove, and makes a perfectly weather-tight joint. This form of construction requires that the hinges or butts shall be set so that their pins are from one-quarter to three-eighths of an inch inside of the inner surface of the sash, so that when the sash is opened it will turn on a center suffi ciently away from the sash to throw the sash slightly into the room and prevent binding at the tongue and groove.

The head of the frame has a double rebate, and the top rail of sash a single rebate, to exclude the weather.

'The joint of the sill and the bottom rail of the sash in inward-opening casements is a par ticularly difficult one to make weather-tight, and we know of no better way of constructing it than that shown in the illustration. Windows constructed in this manner have remained tight through driving rainstorms.

A moulded member is placed over and tongued into the top inner edge of the wood sill, and is rebated for the bottom rail of the sash. This member for its entire length has a semi circular groove or gutter in the rebate, as shown, to catch any water which may beat in at the junction of the sash and sill. At intervals of about one foot, reamed holes are provided from the gutter to the outer surface of this strip, as indicated by the dotted lines in the illustration, Fig. 99, to carry away and discharge on the sill any water which may accumulate in the gutter. The holes should be reamed perfectly smooth, and painted; and the joint of the sill and the member immediately over it should be made in white lead.

The bottom rail of sash is rebated, and on its outer face has a drip-mould let in and joined in white lead. This mould, under ordinary con

ditions, will prevent water from entering under the sash. In driving rainstorms it may not prevent a little water from working in; but any such water will be caught at the undercut drip on the bottom surface of sash, and will drop into the gutter in top member of sill.

A small moulded staff bead covers the joint of the masonry and the window-frame; and all interstices about the frame are calked with oakum, as indicated, so as to be wind-proof. Jamb and head linings are tongued into the frame, and, where deep inside jambs occur, are better paneled.

The trim is worked out of seven-eighths inch material, moulded and hollow-backed, and pro vided with face-mould, back-band, and small flexible wan-mould. Joints at angles are mitered and put together with slip tongues, glued, and screwed. In the better class of work, the trim is put together at the carpenter shop; and all sur faces, including backs, edges, ends, splines, and faces, are primed. It may then be brought to the building without risk of damage through the dampness in the atmosphere or at the building.

The trim is carried to the floor, and finishes on moulded wood plinths. The inside recess of the window is carried to the floor, the masonry wall being made four inches thinner under the window. A stool and apron are provided, but ting into the jamb linings; and the base breaks around the recess, thus forming a plaster panel back. This plaster panel-back may be painted or grained to match the adjoining woodwork, and the effect of a wood panel secured.

The opening in the masonry wall has a stone sill and lintel, and the inside of the wall is furred with one-inch by two-inch strips. Grounds G are set wherever required for a nailing for the interior finishing woodwork.