Wood Framing for Concrete-Block Houses

WOOD FRAMING FOR CONCRETE-BLOCK HOUSES.

Since the advent of concrete building blocks for house construction, numerous points have arisen concerning the proper methods of framing to be used with them. How to arrange the window-frames with pockets for weights for a dwelling house built with an eight-inch wall, is one of these points. Also, what is the best way to attach a hip-roofed porch to a building of this kind.

Fig. 106. How to Arrange Window-Frames and Attach Porch Roof.

The thickness of the wall (8 inches) neces sarily crowds the frame in giving the proper space for the box to contain the weights. In fact, it is too close for the best.class of work, and should be used only for the cheaper grade of work. One plan suggests inserting wood blocks in the moulds to form an angle to receive the box and grounds, which, of course, is the better way; but as this will require considerable skill on the part of the operator, Fig. 106 shows how box frames may be used in connection with the common cement block, just as it comes from the moulds. Most blocks are made with a groove at the end, and there should be a strip nailed onto the frame coming opposite this groove, and the remaining space filled with mortar, so as to form a wind-proof joint, as shown at A. The frames should be made to work with the even courses of range blocks, otherwise the result will be a botched job.

The best way to attach a hipped-roof porch to a building of this kind, is also a point that frequently gives trouble. This may be done by bolting a timber onto the wall, as shown in Fig. 106, or, as that part of the wall is concealed from view, a timber may be built into the wall, and the remaining space that the range course would occupy be filled in with common brick.

Sill Construction and Joist Framing. Fig. 107 shows a mitered 8 by 8 by 24 water-table of a concrete-block residence. B is the same, except it is 6 by 8 by 24; C is a common 8 by 8 by 24 water-table; and D a 6 by 8 by 24; E is a 4 by 8 by 14 filler between joists; F is a 1 by 7 string-board nailed to end of floor-joists, which acts as a spacer to hold joists in position till filler blocks are laid, and serves to aid one in getting the tops of the joists exactly level, as the concrete blocks are not always perfectly true. If joists are laid on blocks, their imper fections cause some places to be lower than others, and you are M trouble, as the joists can not be raised after the blocks are laid above them. G is the floor-joist; and H is a piece of 2 by 8 gained down level with top of floor-joist, to be used at a door opening onto a porch; how ever, on a porch the water-table course should be left off, and plain-faced blocks used instead.

The dotted line L is the line of wall under water table, the water-table projecting two inches over the wall. JJ is the double header to support floor-joists at the basement windows. K is an 8 by 8 concrete lintel over basement window.

This figure also shows the style of concrete block used around windows, together with a box window-frame, and the way it is set to the con crete wall, and the way the inside casing is fast ened to the frame and also to the concrete wall. There is also a wooden wedge driven in the mortar joint next to the frame; the casing is nailed to this.

The window-sills are 8 by 8 concrete and project 2 inches outside of the wall. This leaves a space 2 inches deep under the window, which may be filled with a 2 by 8 with the ends slightly beveled, so as to fit tightly between the blocks on either side of window; this makes a good place to nail the apron to.

One of the worst problems connected with concrete block work is to fasten the head casing to the concrete lintels over the windows and doors. A good method is as follows: In making the lintels, prepare some round pins, inches long, and soak them in water for at least forty eight hours. Be sure they are of the softest wood ob tainable, and non-resinous, so that they will swell up freely. Now bed these in the lintels while making. They will shrink and drop out by the time the lintel is cured enough to put in the house. Place about two to each lintel at the ends of the head casing to be nailed; and by the time you are ready to case the inside, you can drive soft, dry wooden plugs in the holes, and they will hold perfectly well. The reason for wanting the plugs soaked well, is because otherwise they will swell and break the lintel while it is still green.

Attaching Woodwork to Concrete. The best method of securing furring to brick or cement block walls has caused not a little discussion. Sonie contractors prefer plucks instead of joint strips, as the strips expand when built in the wall, and afterward become loose on account of shrinkage. A good way is to use a heavily barbed nail driven into the mortar joints. This proves durable, and requires no previous prep aration.

The use of small hardwood (well-seasoned) wedges driven into the mortar joints, also serves for attaching casing. Many builders no longer fur on concrete blocks, but apply plaster directly; this saves plaster, and, with proper precautions as to waterproofing to prevent water soaking through or condensing on the inside, will make a good job.